Thursday, September 13, 2012

1 Year in Peru - PC Comes to Film


Kelly McCormick shot 100's of photos of my site


Video Master Lee Gillenwater shot 5 hours of video

A "candid" shot of Avelino & me
It’s been just a year since our group of new Peace Corps Volunteers touched down in Peru. We were Trainees at that point, totally unaware of the challenges at rich rewards that lay ahead of us. I was thinking the other night about how lucky I am to have such a great site, with wonderful service opportunities. I’m not sure about the “luck” thing – I think we make our own. When I first saw the Canete area during training, I instantly felt “I’m home”. The next day I asked Frieda for this site and eventually got it. I’ve learned to trust my feelings and intuitions over the years – not question them. I think we all have some inner wisdom that takes us just where we need to be. If we just get out of the way and listen.

I picked up 2 “Pico” solar panel systems at Soyuz bus terminal today. They are sort of an “add-on” to my solar pump project. It’s a very affordable (US$35) system that includes a 2.5W panel, a light with 3 LED settings and a port for charging cell phones or other USB devices. I think these little units could be a boon to folks in the annexes without power, as well as a good demonstration of solar technology – which makes perfect sense, with all the solar hours here in Peru. I’ll be showing the units around and looking for someone to distribute them. We need a local distributor – else folks will have no source other than Lima. It’s a good solution for certain families, given the enormous amount of sun we get here. I know, having a cell phone, but no electricity seems odd, but happens all the time here. They bring the phone or battery to town for charging. And mostly, the phones are used for receiving calls. Folks never seem to have “saldo” (credit) on their phones – always want to borrow mine.

I’ve been reading more in "1491" from my cousin Peter. Fascinating part on the Wari or Huari - the folks who lived up on the Cerro de Oro near here. They were traders, but a unique kind. The cities traded with each other, and then folks came to a central warehouse for supplies. There were no markets in the traditional sense. The trading network went all the way up to Trujillo. For 500 years they lived in peace - without a war.  Can you imagine? I like these guys. And then, the Inca came. After 500 years, the Wari had no trained soldiers or arms. The "thugs" from the mountains walked all over them. I now have even more distain for Machu Pichu. Sad that most Peruvian histories focus only on the bizarre Inca – who married their sisters and killed their brothers for fear of coop – and their conquest by Pizarro and Co. There is so much more to be learned from the highly advanced cultures that preceded the Incans.

Fernando woke me up at 12:30 last night. “problema” he said. So, I hurriedly put some clothes on – ready for some disaster. Turns out, the only problem was – he was drunk as a skunk and wanted 5 soles ($1.66) for another beer. I was not happy at the time. He apologized profusely the next morning, as he nursed his hang-over. Said he was “very drunk” and would never do it again. Ya Think ??

The Peace Corps Communications film crew from Washington showed up right on time today. They got me mic-ed up and filmed at the house, in my room, on my bike and did a long interview at the ruins of the old sugar mill in Santa Barbara, before moving on to the goat farm. There, we filmed the biodigester in action, a bottle bulb demonstration, yogurt and cheese production, the solar pump, cocina and some footage of Mercedes in her new wheelchair. The Duenas family treated us to an amazing lunch, cooked on bio-gas and cocina. We sampled goat yogurt and cheese and a special batch of chincha – a fermented corn drink – which had a bit of a kick. Then we went up to Cerro de Oro to film at the burial grounds. I was honored to have my service documented and will advise when the 4+ hours of video are edited into a short documentary on the PC YouTube channel.

We built the seasonal sun tracker for the solar panel in record time and minimal cost – all scrap wood lying around the beach area – and $3 worth of hinges and screws. This will allow the panel to be tilted to more directly face the sun angle through the year. It should yield an extra 15-20% power overall. Once again, Avelino and Godo were right there with anything I needed, including some high quality lithium grease to protect the hinges.

Dan & Carrie, the PCV couple from nearby Imperial and I were dinner guests of Helen, an ex-pat living in Canete. Most US ex-pats live in Lima – possibly the worst weather in all Peru and a city to boot. Not many live in “rural” areas. Anyway, one of her kids has allergies and this seems to be a place that suits him. Always a delight to be around other English speakers. Dinner was VERY American – pizza and carrot cake, both excellent. She wants us back for meatloaf and mashed potatoes. I’m in. I like Peruvian food just fine, but/and some US comfort food is just a nice treat.

Hard to believe Dan, Carie and others of Peru 16 group will be leaving in 2 months – just got to know them. Because of the constant rotation in Peace Corps , Good Byes are frequent. I’m OK with that. I always celebrate the time that I DID have with someone, rather than bemoan the time I don’t get. I learned that lesson well at Esalen, in Big Sur. Behind every Good-Bye – is another Hello, just waiting to happen. And, with the connectivity provided by email and Facebook, Good-Byes are not so final.

The school that my kids attend has had enough of the teachers strike and has decided to resume classes. To “celebrate”, they held a “recycled” fashion / costume show. Clearly a lot of efforts went into the outfits, though many children seemed less than enthusiastic about the whole affair. Amir most certainly did NOT like his bear hat. One of Avelino’s kids could not see out of his rabbit costume. And Camila just didn’t seem excited, although she did enjoy getting her make-up done by her favorite aunt.

The school needed new soap dispensers for their handwashing stations, so I came up with a quick design, using 2 empty soda bottles and a closet bolt. Works like a charm, so will make 2 more next week. Photos at :


I love this kind of “McGuyver” problem solving. You can get a lot done , with very little money, if you think outside the box (or bottle).

The construction hits just keep on coming. A bad water leak, brought out the backhoe, which hit and broke the new sewer line, which was a NASTY fix. No sooner was it all repaired, than they started tearing up the street AGAIN, for the new water line. I’m told the reason the two projects could not ne simultaneous was that there is simply not enough space on the street for two ditches. And they did not want to run water and septic in the same ditch. Other large piles of stone, sand and construction debris continue to block streets. Why so many new building projects have started in the midst of street construction still eludes me.

Lots of PCVs are coming into town for the La Quebrada Cat Fest this weekend. We’ll likely be making some trips up to the Cerro de Oro burial grounds. Have to wait until next week for the Festival report. Or is that being to catty of me ??

MEE YOW !!!!



Wednesday, September 5, 2012

Solar Water Pumps


Solar tracker ready to install


Climbing up to install the panel


Pump is is ready
And, we have water pressure !!
Well, it’s been a beautiful week in San Luis de Tolosa de Canete, my home town – full and rich and rewarding.

It started with a long Monday night, but we got all the wheelchairs delivered. What a mixture of joy and sadness. Handicapped and poverty is not a happy combination. Some of these folks hadn't been out of the house in a long time. The joy part was knowing that now, they can go to the park or Plaza - feel the sun and wind blowing. Gave me a renewed appreciation for my semi-intact body and made me tear up more than once. The Mayor, of course, made a speech at each stop. And many photos taken of these poor folks for papers, etc. Crowds of neighbors formed at each stop of the Muni truck. It was a pretty big deal. Especially for the folks that got nice new chairs. I was touched by the elderly woman, who kept saying, “I want to go to the Plaza” over and over – at 11pm. The paper and radio carried stories the next day. It’s always a big deal when people get much needed help. Especially so in this case. Grateful to the Princeton Class of 1977 and Wheelchair Foundation for making this possible.

The next day, I was out at the Farm bright and early to construct the new solar pump system. Once again, my trusty bike did great service, carrying me, a 30lb pack and 4 x 5M lengths of PVC tube, strapped to the frame. A little hairy crossing the Pan Am with 5 ft sticking out front and back, but OK once on the back roads. Odie, of course, was first to greet me. I enjoy my special connection with this doggie friend.

We built the raised platform for the 60W panel way up high to keep it out of the dust and got the panel oriented to north, thanks to a new compass from sister Darcy. Got the wiring done to the Phocos charge controller and then to the ShurFlo pump. Plumbed the ½” PVC tube to the pump intake and hose to outflow. Hit the switch and YEEEE HAW, we got water pressure !
Started to fill the freshly cleaned tank with water. We used part of an old cable spool as the well cover, which will keep it cleaner. Still some small details to work out, but the basic system is done.

Nothing that could go wrong did. The job was right by the book, as planned. I am so glad I brought battery drill, multi-meter, wire strippers, etc . They totally made this job fly. A PVC pipe cutter, courtesy of Joy Massa, made the PCV cuts easy and perfect – it never fails to impress the locals. And all the while, Avelino was having fun playing with my camera. Every single photo had to be edited to vertical. He made up for it by supplying me with goat cheese bits and yogurt. All enjoyed within earshot and view of the Pacific Ocean. Not a bad gig. Not bad at all.

The nation-wide Teachers’ Strike here has thrown a proverbial Monkey Wrench into our HIV/STD/teen pregnancy prevention program. All materials ready for first session, which was supposed to be this week. It also means tons of kids hanging out all over town. No telling how long this will go on. Sadly, this is the last year that PEPFAR (HIV) funds will be available for education. How the US can cut funding for Aids prevention and Peace Corps and keep on killing innocents in the Middle East, just flat-out baffles me.

I’m also starting in with another group of 16 yr olds in the PC World Wise Schools program. Beth Ramey, a teacher near Golden, CO and her classes, will be exchanging notes and questions with my group here. Should be fun for everyone. But, it too is on hold until the teachers go back to work.

I like the little “pancito” bread here. Kind of like rolls, but crispy crust and soft inside. I usually get them in the morning, still warm from the bakery. No preservatives or shipping required. It’s about all Peruvians eat for breakfast, usually with some cheese or blood sausage or avocado or jam. Only thing that worries me is that I’ve noticed that none of the dogs will eat them, including my pal Odie. What do they know that I don’t?

Angel and I found a great site for the #2 solar pump system. It’s a 2 family compound out in the Las Palmas annex, between Santa Barbara and Santa Cruz, near the beach. I’m not sure why it’s called Palmas – there is exactly one tall palm in the whole area. The families have a nice little spring for a water source. Sadly the spring is filthy with debris and animal manure – cows come up and drink from it.

So, we’ll build a “well-head” made of beach rock to protect the source, cover it with another cable spool wheel and pump water up to the 2 houses. 2x 55gal elevated drums will store the water and give them clean(er) running water. If their water use is low enough, they’ll also have power for lights and charging cell phones.

And there’s another strange priority – cell phone, but no electricity, running water or septic. They take phone or battery into town or to a neighbor’s to charge. Kinda like my house, where we have 2 flat screen TV’s and cable, but no fridge, oven or floor in the shower room. Just hard to figure sometimes.

One of the families that got a wheel chair came by the house last night. That’s one of the things about being the only Gringo in town – everyone knows where I live. I was so touched by the smile on the woman’s face. Selva is her name. They brought her over all the construction, in the dark (though just about dinner time for most here), just to say Thank You and gift me some bananas. And she cried. And I cried. I really got the enormity of what having a chair means to her and her family. The opportunity to touch lives like that is one I’ll always be grateful for.

The monthly lunch gathering of Canete area PCVs was a little bittersweet this time, as I realized that Dan & Carrie and Gabe will all be finishing their service in the next couple of months. This week also marks the arrival of the next group of WATSAN PCVs, and one year since I landed in Peru. It seems like yesterday and it seems like years ago. As you can tell from the number 49 on this blog, I’ve missed a couple, but have still probably set some sort of record for number of pages written. It has been my joy to record and share my adventure, thus far. Hope y’all have enjoyed the ride.