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| The train passes over one of 69 bridges along the route to Huancayo |
I love
trains. The first time I rode was as a young lad with my grandparents,
traveling to Philadelphia. This was back at the end of the Golden Age of
American rail. Passenger cars, especially the First Class, were elegant and
everyone dressed for the occasion. The dining car had linen tablecloths, china
and silverware. After that, I took the pre-Amtrak line from Westerly to
Providence, RI, when I was an NSF Scholar in the summer of 1968 and whenever I
went into NYC from Princeton. For a couple of years, the family rode the rail
to Silar City, NC to visit Roy & Mimi for Thanksgivings. The hypnotic clack
of the rails put the boys to sleep in no time. The spectacular CA Coastal route
was another fine train experience.
There is a very special train that runs from Lima to Huancayo,
high in the Peruvian Andes. Special because it is the 2nd highest in the world
at 15,830 ft, and because it only makes 8 trips per year. And the spectacular
views cannot be had from car, bus or plane. I first laid eyes on the RR track,
just outside of the retreat center where my Peace Corps training group spent
our first night in Peru. During pre-service training, my WATSAN group visited
the small alpine town of Aya, where we worked on a water system and I saw the
train making its first switchbacks on the other side of the river. I’ve wanted to ride that train for the last 2
years, but could never seem to find the time or make reservations the required
3-4 months in advance. Until now.
Over the Easter weekend I finally got my wish and boarded the
train at 7am in downtown Lima, right behind the Government Palace. The coach
was as elegant as my first train memories. And I found myself in the delightful
company of the Berger family and their lovely au pair, Alexis. Equally lovely
were the smartly uniformed attendants, who served not only food and beverage,
but all manner of timely information along the way.
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| The Berger Family and Alexis |
We rode out the Rimac River valley, past the slums of Ate,
through Chaclacayo and Chosica. I waved to my dear Jaime as we passed his house
in Buenos Aires, where I lived during PC training. All along the route, people
came out to wave at the rare passenger train, taking as many photos of us as we
took of them. I saw Aya from the other side of the river now, as the train made
the first of 6 switchbacks along the route. Since a train cannot make tight
turns or climb steep grades, as a car, the switchback allows the train to climb
the side of a steep mountain quite nicely.
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Switchback - the train pulls past the lower track and then
switches to the upper track, changing direction |
After that, civilization gave way to magnificent mountain
vistas. I made my way back to the bar car for the first of several Pisco Sours
and to the open air car. Here, passengers have unfettered views in all
directions, leaning on polished brass rails, something the US DOT would never
allow. Even better, when making switchbacks, the open car often became the
front of the train, which was pretty exciting.
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| Entering a tunnel, as seen from the open-air car |
Equally stunning were the 69 bridges and 58 tunnels we
traversed. The whoosh of air and sudden infusion of diesel smoke often caught
me off-guard, as I gazed out on the Peruvian Sierra. I also enjoyed an “Up
close and personal” look at the enormous mining operations along the way.
Trainloads of zinc and lead bars lined the side-tracks and we passed directly
through the center of several refineries.
As we approached the 15,830 ft summit, the air grew noticeably
thinner and colder. Snow was visible on the nearby mountain tops and we passed
through a brief hail shower. Llamas and alpacas grazed in the alpine meadows,
giving us only passing glances. As darkness fell on the Andes, we glided the
last leg into Huancayo, still at almost 11,000 ft.
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Grandfather carves and colors gourds with just
a few tools and tricks |
The Hotel Turistico proved to be a comfortable and elegant
throwback to the Colonial era, with modern rooms, high ceilings, billiards
room, a tea garden and rooftop solar hot water heaters – much to my delight. The
buffet breakfast was outstanding, especially in front of a large roaring fire.
Though, I was surprised to find Tabasco sauce instead of the usual Aji.
The next two days, I toured the area, again in the company of
Alexis and the Berger family. We visited some of the local artisans – gourd
carvers, jewelry makers and weavers. The livestock market in Chupaca was a
special treat as it happens only 4 times a year. Every kind and size of animal
was for sale and buyers could take them home alive or slaughtered at the open
air on-site slaughterhouse – likely not something the USDA would approve. We
huffed and puffed our way up to the Wari grain storage ruins and visited the
“Spring of Life” in Huari, from whence the Wari believed all human life had
sprung. Of course, when the Catholic church arrived, they had other ideas and
quickly closed the spring. We enjoyed huge trout and a great Pachamanca for
lunches. Pachamnca is a traditional Peruvian meal of meat, corn, fava beans and
potatoes and sweet potatoes, all cooked in a pit over hot stones in the ground.
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| The open air slaughter area at the livestock market |
The train home to Lima was actually a bit tedious, as we had
already seen the route on the way up. But, between some Pisco Sours and the
very comfy reclining seats, the time was passed well.
Here are some notes, if
you are planning to take the ride:
1) Make reservations well in advance - at least 3 months.
2) Take the train just one way (Lima > Huancayo). On the way
up, the lovely hostesses give a wonderful travelogue, but not on the way back,
since you've already seen it. You'll pay more than 1/2 of the round trip cost,
but the 14 hr return over ground you've already seen can be tedious.
3) Most important : Go 1st Class (Turistico). Yes, it's double
the price ($84 vs $43), but WELL worth it. In Turistico, you get nice comfy
seats than recline way back, meal and beverage service, snacks, access to the
bar car and open air car (my favorite place), air conditioning and heat. In
Classico (2nd Class), you get hard seats that don't recline, no meals, no
access, no A/C and no heat. The windows are capable of opening, but good luck
getting Peruvians to allow that.
4) As you ride the switchbacks, be sure and get to the open air
car, which periodically becomes the front of the train.
5) The Lima station is just behind the Government Palace, off of
the Plaza Mayor.
6) Show up at least 30 minutes before departure (7 AM). This
train will leave at exactly 7 am, with or without you.
