San Luis de Canete - My new home town for 2 years. It was love at first sight !! |
Working on my first project with Jason - a biodigester |
WATSAN 18 practices cleaning a water system |
The last two weeks have been intense to say the very least.
We’ve been away from the training center for about two weeks. The first week
was field based training near Ica.
We saw eco-toilet (composting toilet) construction. The eco-bano separates solids
(poo) from liquids (pee) and allows both to be used for fertilizer. I got to
unload compost from a toilet at my site on the beach near Canete and can attest
to it being a beautiful dry fluffy texture with no foul odor at all. Next we
visited a pour flush toilet south of Ica.
This is basically a primitive septic tank system, but serves very well,
especially since that area will likely get a sewer system in the next few
years. We saw a municipal well system that is drying up, due to huge grape
vineyards in the area, which are sucking all the water out of the local
aquifer. There are government regulations against this, but (as elsewhere) big
business gets its way over the people of the town. The locals have started to
protest – there was a huge and angry demonstration at the town hall – but
hopefully it is not too late already. We did some talks in schools on the
various methods of water purification – boiling, chlorinating and solar (aka
SODIS). The later uses UV from the sun to purify water in a minimum of 6 hours.
So many people get diarrhea from bacteria and parasites, it is amazing that
more systems don’t chlorinate. But many of the older folks seem to build an
immunity to the bugs and don’t feel the need to purify. And they say the kids
will get used to it. A little education is certainly in order here.
Had my second rip-roaring bout of “bicycleta” (aka diarrhea
and vomit) at the hotel in Ica.
My fellows were quite sure that I would not survive the night. But, I seem to
get through it quickly (4-6 hours of Hell)– better than the drawn-out milder 2
day version that most seem to suffer. The next day we met our “socios” or
community partners. Mine are a nice nurse from the Health Post and the Town
Manager, Jimmy. It’s great that they have already worked with my predecessor,
Jason and have lots ideas and projects in the works.
We all returned to San Luis de Canete, where I met the
mayor, town engineer and others at the health post. I also got to weigh myself
for the first time since leaving the states and found I’m down 10lbs to 192. I
met my new host family (though I may have to change). The grandfather Fernando
is 56 and a mason, who works from 6am to 8pm. His daughter, son-in-law and 3
kids live with him, in the nicer upstairs part of the house. There is a full
bath upstairs, but downstairs is a toilet in a VERY small area under the stairs
– so small that I have to sit down to pee and even then, hit my head on the
stairs. The shower is in another room by the back yard. The usual cold water
only is fine, but the dirt floor is not. I can’t complain much, as some of the Peru 18ers in
the mountains don’t even have inside plumbing.
No one in the house is a competent cook, but there are a
dozen great little restaurants on our street. There are two “pollo cilindros”
or smoked chicken places, which are outstanding. Also, lots of fish in the area
(2 km from the beach). There is also a lady who makes fried egg sandwiches and
FRESH SQUEEZED orange juice (2 eggers + juice = US$ 1.15). Another place near
the market makes only ceviche, which is world class stuff. Tons of fresh
veggies in the market and much better bread than we get here in Santa Eulalia.
Also the cilantro is zesty – like in Mexico and plenty of local cows
make for fresh cheese and yogurt. Surprisingly, very few potatoes – they use
yucca instead, which when fried beats any French fry on the planet. I had a
filete de dorado (mahi-mahi) that is memorable, with a huge serving of Peruvian
coleslaw.
I spent two days with Jason, digging out a pit for a new bio-digester
about 100 yards from the beach on a pig/cow/sheep/goat farm. The digestor will
take all the manure and produce a nitrogen-rich liquid fertilizer (for their
vegetable farm) and enough gas for the family to cook and boil water with. We
also repaired the eco-bano at the farm, which had its urine tube plugged with
urine crystals and ash and unloaded the composted side of the toilet, which
also yielded some great fertilizer/soil conditioner. We also visited a nearby
“improved cook stove” (cocina mejorar), which replaced an open fire on the
ground, inside the house – less smoke, fewer back problems and less fuel
needed. They don’t have any trees nearby, so they use dried corn stalks and
stalks from the yucca plants as fuel. I’ll likely build a few more of these and
train the local brick masons in construction methods. I also hope to do a study
of the 240 (built by an NGO) eco-banos in the areas to see why so few are in
use after only one year in service and train locals to diagnose the common
problems, as well as re-educate folks on the use of eco-banos. I will also
install at least one more bio-digester – assuming the first one proves
workable. I have another project to replant trees along the town streets near
the plaza, as the fichus trees they planted did not survive. And then there is
the big new water system that I have to get started with the town engineer.
Jason has started a tree nursery and worm farm/compost project that I’ll need
to continue.
I’ll definitely be getting a bike for transportation, as all
my projects are within a 10km radius, the area is pretty flat and there is no
public transportation in some directions. Luckily, San Luis is on the Pan American Hwy,
so access to Canete, Ica and Lima is easy. There is something quite
empowering about flagging down a huge bus and having it stop just for me. All
in all, I love my site and have TONS of projects and ideas already in hand.
We’ll see how the living situation plays out.
The last day of my trip was spent in the seaside resort of
Cerro Azul, about 10 miles north of my site. All the 36 PC volunteers from the
Lima/Ica/Nazca region met for their monthly gathering to share info and
visit/party. My friend Will – a surfer from Hawaii, who lives about 10 miles
from me – wasted no time in finding a board and catching some sweet waves in
the bay. I settled for some body surfing, which was just fine. We all stuffed
ourselves that night on ceviche and fried sole. As the only early riser the
next morning, I was treated to some fresh-off-the-rocks oysters (small, but
tasty) and watched the local fishermen unload their nets on the beach.
I’m REALLY excited about my service post and upcoming 2
years in San Luis (the full town name is San Luis de Tolusa de Canete). I hope
to make some lasting positive changes on the area – and vice-versa.
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