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| Peruvians love yellow undies for NYE |
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| I didn't have the heart to tell her she was looking at the wrong size |
The week long “anniversary” celebration of is finally over.
The street vendors have all packed up and moved on to another town near Ica that is celebrating
this week. And tranquility has once again been restored to my delightful little
town. Actually, it’s not exactly little; latest census figures put it at about
5,400 population. Another 5,500 live in the four largest annexes and another
1,200 in the smaller nine annexes. As I’ve discovered in doing my field
interviews this week, those numbers are tricky, since many folks report
“living” here, but spend most of their time working elsewhere.
I’ve been doing field interviews and bano surveys in the Don
Oscar, San Pedro, Las Palmas
and Vista Alegre annex areas, where are located the 124 eco-banos I hope to
rehab. These composting toilets were beautifully constructed by the British NGO
“CARE” about 2 ½
years ago. The bases are poured concrete of high quality and
the structures are built of a “Hardy Board” type material, a compressed
concrete/fiber material, used in the States as backing for tile in bathrooms.
Sadly, only about 20% (which is actually higher than I’d anticipated) are still
in use. The biggest problems seem to be lack of education on how to properly
use the units and rust (most of these units are within 200 yds of the ocean).
Many of the unused units are simply full; and the folks either didn’t
understand that the composted fecal material had to be removed or couldn’t open
the access doors, because the bolts securing it had rusted solid. Many others
fell out of service when the door was either removed and used for other
construction or fell off when the two cheesy hinges rusted through. A minor
inconvenience is that there were no handles built on the doors, just a (again
cheesy) slide bolt, most of which have rusted out, so the doors in use are
mostly propped shut with an adobe block. Others have simply been stripped to
use the hardy board, roofing and plastic tubes for other building.
While there is good quality water from the EMAPA company in
Canete, many folks simply can’t afford the $4/month cost and get their water
from open, shallow wells. I’m guessing this is not great water to drink,
although most say they boil anything they drink. Many were given a low-tech
ceramic filter by an NGO, but these have fallen into dis-use, since the ceramic
filter plugs up over time. The users were not told how or where to get
replacements. So, here looks like another project for me. Hopefully, I can get
new filters for them. Even better (and crazier) idea is to start manufacturing
the replacement filters right here. We’ve got the local clay and rice husks,
and I’ve located a brick kiln up by Cerro Azul where they could be fired. Now
all I need is a form, hydraulic jack to pressure pack the molds, some colloidal
silver to kill microbes, and some elbow grease. Thinking in the large, we might
even start a cottage industry to manufacture replacement filters for other
areas. But, the logistics of that are daunting. Or maybe, just get some
sponsorship money and buy ‘em.
Other data on illnesses, fuel use, recycling, trash
disposal, religion, and demographics will be compiled and presented in my PC
required “Community Diagnostic”, due in March.
In the middle of all the gritty interviews, I took a trip to
another world in Lima.
Vivian Fort-Brescia *79 and sister of my Princeton classmate Bernardo hosted a
dinner for the five Princeton students who are
participating in the Bridge Year program. These young folks have delayed their
freshman year, to serve in rural Urubamba,
Peru in
programs very similar to Peace Corps. Their lovely program director and guide,
was in fact a former PC Volunteer (RPCV & APCD -Guatemala in PC speak) and modeled
their service program accordingly. Some of their programs are the same as mine:
cocinas mejoradas (improved cook stoves), ceramic water filters, eco-banos,
etc. As might be expected, this is an extraordinary group of very bright and highly
motivated pre-college students. I applaud their service and life experience
gained will certainly serve them well at Princeton.
In an age when so many young people seem to be focused on maximum personal
gain, here are some of the best and brightest, looking outward and acting
generously. For me, it was also a quick visit to another planet, just 140km
from Canete. Vivian’s home is right out of Architectural Digest (literally). Manicured
grounds surround a pool and fountains wrapped around a glass and wood structure
of her own design of comfort and 20 ft ceilings. The food was extraordinary –
fish, avocados stuffed with seafood salad, asparagus and mango sorbet - and I
enjoyed my first drink with ice cubes since coming to Peru. More information on the
Bridge Year program and blogs from the students can be found at:
While the visit was incredibly enjoyable and a complete
change of venue and pace, it did bring home the enormous income and life-style
gap that exists here in Peru.
Wealthy Limonians live in the opulence of America’s top 2%. Swimming pools,
fountains, polished marble, SUVs and works of art everywhere. White jacketed
servants, manicured grounds and well-policed streets. Security is HIGH and
electrified wire, iron spikes and armed private security guards defend all
residences. My accounts of living conditions in Don Oscar – well water, no
septic and subsistence farming seemed quite a shock. The only part of San Luis
any of them had seen was the famous “El Piloto” restaurant on the Pan Am, an
expensive and exclusive dining spot for Lima
residents travelling to their beach homes to the south. I’m sure the same can
be said for upper class New Yorkers, who drive past the ghettos enroute to the Hamptons.
I’ve added some handlebar extensions to my beloved bike at
the suggestion of my Bike Guru, PCV “Obi” Ben Masters. His passion for the
craft and common-sense approach may just change the archaic and inefficient Peace
Corps bike policy here. He is also writing a bicycle repair and maintenance
manual for Volunteers. Another example of our PC tribe’s diversity and
willingness to jump in and cooperate. The extensions are an amazing addition,
offering a host of hand/arm positions and making my ride even more comfortable
and enjoyable.
Still frustrated by the lack of supervision and attention
for the three small ones living here. They are left alone all day to watch TV
and run/ ride scooters up and down the hallway. At lunch-time today, I showed
them the art of crafting paper airplanes. Even scrap paper is a treat for these
kids. I wish I had more time for them. Hopefully, I can get some kind of
childrens’ park going here, so they can escape the home confinement. Kids are
like dogs – they NEED to get out and play and roll in the grass. Not that there
is much grass around here to roll in. Fortunately, the oldest girl Camila (8),
is really bright, responsible and full of joy. She keeps her devilish little
brothers in line and entertained with songs and play ideas. They appropriately
call her “Mamita” (little mother). I’ve finally figured out the 6 yr old’s
speech pattern – he pronounces every hard consonant as “T”. That info and a
little imagination, makes him somewhat intelligible. Camila translates in
prefect Spanish, when needed.
When I ride in the “combi” minivans, I always take the front
seat next to the driver, if that space if available. First of all, it is THE
most comfortable seat on the bus and always affords good access to an open window.
Most Peruvians shun ventilation while travelling, while my inner dog loves the
breeze. The front seat also offers access to the driver. Drivers are often more
talkative than the average Peruvian. Today, I got a very talkative driver. He
was curious about why I was living here, so I explained the Peace Corps
projects and how I wanted folks to see the “kinder-gentler” side of Americans.
When the conductor wanted to collect my fare, the driver waived him off and
told me “Thank You for coming to help”. I was touched.
As usual, photos of the week’s activity can be found at:
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2311898848958.121881.1593993286&type=3&l=11b63b7701
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