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Falls and lagoon at Huancaya - filled with trout |
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Glacier - fed falls - headwaters of the Canete River |
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Lagoons fill the alpine meadows |
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The entire Canete River roars through a narrow gorge |
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The Plaza statue of....a trout - they are tasty |
Sunday, we took a ride with a most knowledgeable guide Elvis
– yes, 60’s rock & roll culture reached even the Peruvian mountains. We
travelled another 2 hours into the mountains to 11,000ft, to the town of Huancaya. More
cliff-hanging one lane roads, but without pavement. The farmers here work on
very small plots, often terraced and carved out of impossible terrain. Some
very tentative rope bridges and cable cars span the river to access the “other
side”. The river rages in this area, confined by rocky walls – full of class 5
rapids and falls and crystal clear – a far cry from the polluted, muddy water
that exits the river at its mouth in Canete. Along the way are several
hydro-electric plants. The most notable, completed just a year ago, takes water through a 13km long, 4x6m tunnel
and delivers it downstream at a 2800ft drop !!!
At Huancaya, the river flattens dramatically, the hard
bottom creating a series of lagoons and small waterfalls, amid alpine meadows.
A good satellite view is found at :
Trout fishing and farming are everywhere – children with
long cane pole abound. The Plaza features a grand trout statue/fountain and
ancient stone church, as well as a museum. The museum houses a dozen mummies
and some other artifacts – none of which are much better than what I’ve found
at the Cerro de Oro site. The size is just about what we anticipate building.
This is great encouragement for the museum project here. If they can support a
museum with a few artifacts and a truly remote location, imagine the potential
of a museum right on the Pan Am
Hwy, along with adjacent ruins and an active
archeological dig ??
Elvis happened to be making a trip to Canete that afternoon,
so we said farewell to the cool, clear mountain air and descended back to the
heat and dust of the coastal desert. Elvis’ aggressive and fearless driving
shaved about an hour off the return trip. His constant commentary added much to
my knowledge and appreciation of the Canete
River valley.
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