Semana Santa - Easter

Easter and Holy Week are the biggest events on the Catholic calendar here in Peru - Bigger than Christmas and almost as festive as the week-long anniversary celebrations. It is the one time when EVERYBODY goes to church. There are large, slow processions, carrying icons amid ranks of adorably dressed-up boys and girls, accompanied by bands of slightly off-key musicians. I’ve still not determined if it is the poor quality of the instruments or lack of talent. Though they do play with great spirit. Nor have I fathomed the reason for starting the parades at 10pm, which is just about my bed-time. And, of course, what religious celebration is complete without fireworks and beer-drinking circles ?

For me, the best part of Easter is that “my” kids, Amir, Santi and Camila are visiting from Lima. I have missed them so very much. They all seem much taller and more adult than when they left. There was much news to exchange and balloons to blow up. And, of course, there was the raiding my snack stash. I enjoy the many other kids in my life here – the goat farm tribe, Vidal’s seven and the playground troops, but these three are special.

I did attend Maundy Thursday mass with the family. The church was PACKED - and it's twice the size of the old one. Lots of flowers, everybody dolled up and a real air of excitement. The priests rip through the service, like it was a race - I caught maybe 10%, but did get to light off some fireworks. Having the only long handled lighter around gives me privileges.

At least, Peru does not suffer from the commercialization of Easter that the US seems to be experiencing. It always brings to mind….. Peeps - the most inane and dreadful of all confections. So odd that there is almost a cult around the nasty critters. Not surprising, yet sad that vendors have co-opted yet another holiday and turned it into a time for vapid consumerism. Maybe appropriate, though, that Ishtar go back to its pagan roots :
http://www.guardian.co.uk/commentisfree/belief/2010/apr/03/easter-pagan-symbolism

Then, I was up late talking with the "family" here. It was a fascinating glimpse of a whole new world for me -mining - and another chance to practice my beer drinking avoidance protocol. I've mastered the "short pour" and the "fake cold" and the "quick pass" - all of which are needed to avoid getting sloshed. The fake cold allows me to use my own glass, which also allows me not to have to slug down the shared glass and pass on occasion. The short pour involves shaking the bottle into the glass to produce a huge head and little beer. I’m getting really good at all.

Victor is doing SO well at his job. He is doing what he trained for - repairing motors and electrical devices for Chinalco, the giant Chinese mining company.  They have 5 big mines here - all doing horrible things to the people and environment. From just one mine, they figure to take $20B of copper, silver and molybdenum. A private commercial airliner shuttles parts and people every day from China. Story at :
http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2012/dec/20/chinese-mining-peru-corporate-responsibility

Victor seems to be aware of this and there have been protests at the company HQ. But, the money is so big , nobody seems to care. He has gotten 2 promotions since last June when he started and is now making "more than 50K soles" a year (>US$20K), which is like winning the lottery to him. When first met him, he was working at a hardware store in San Luis for 45 soles a day, 4 days a week (less than $4K/yr). Margarita is also making double what she made for the same work as a salesperson at the same appliance store where she worked here in Canete. Needless to say, this has created quite a change and "nouveau riche" attitude. The kids have a nanny, which fulfills Margarita's desire to spend as little time as possible with them. There is even talk of buying a car. The Chinese are selling cars here like hotcakes, but even the cheapest new one would be half his annual salary. I was delighted that I could keep up with most of the conversation, even though speech was fast and slurred.