“Public” Transportation in Peru

This bus fell 500 ft to the river bottom - 5 people survived

The PC-Peru security officer just sent a list of recent accidents that points out one of the differences between the transportation systems in Peru vs the US, to wit: 

June 19 – Junín – Turismo Central bus – rollover at 6 am – 44 deaths

June 24 – Puno – San Cristobal bus – crash with a car at 7 am – 2 deaths

June 25 – Arequipa – Empresa Julsa bus – rollover at 6 am – 20 injured

June 28 – Ancash – combi – rollover at 6 pm – 12 deaths

July 1 – Yauyos - Empresa Santa Rosa bus – rollover at 10 am – 22 deaths

July 10 – Huancavelica – Empresa Ticllas – rollover at 6 pm – 19 deaths

Because private cars are rare, and only owned by the very wealthy, the vast majority of Peruvians (and me), use public transportation. That means that when accidents do happen, they are usually catastrophic. In truth, none of the transport is truly “public” in the US sense. It is all private enterprise, with very little oversight.

Top of the line long-haul 1st Class bus - note front two turning wheels

At the top of the transport pyramid are the big Greyhound type buses, that run between provinces and even internationally. The basic bus that I use traveling to Lima has closely packed, slightly reclining seats, with no A/C or bathroom, but usually some loud action movies playing. These run on no fixed schedule, but on a frequency of between 10 minutes and 1 hour. On the upper end are the luxury liners, which feature seats that rival international airline 1^st Class – the seats make into beds, with privacy walls, personal video/music, headsets, clean bathrooms, and decent food & beverage service. Routes are point-to-point with no stops. These run on fixed schedule and ON TIME. You can even make a reservation on-line. Fares are reasonable – a 12 hour ride is about $35.

Typical local combi

Next are the “airport shuttle” size buses that run fixed routes, especially in Lima. These are usually just for routes under an hour or so. They stop FREQUENTLY, picking up and discharging passengers. A similar “combi” service is found in VW van size vehicles in rural areas. They will stop ANYWHERE someone wants on or off. Fares are cheap, usually in the 30-60 cent range. In our town, they are also used to transport small packages by the driver.

“Collectivos” are nicer mini-vans or cars that run between two fixed points. They are usually newer vehicles and well-maintained. They depart whenever they fill-up with passengers.

The inter-city combis offer more comfort and speed

The drivers are noted for their high-speed and skill. Collectivos are often found on the same routes as buses. They also carry all manner of freight, even live animals, from point to point.

Taxis cars and moto-taxis – sort of a rickshaw attached to a motorcycle frame – are the short haul horses of the fleet. Fares are ALL negotiated, as there are no meters in Peru. Attempts to install meters in Lima have always been met with violent protests. As a Gringo, I am often presented with a fare I know to be double or triple the actual fare. Drivers show absolutely no remorse when I negotiate a fare 1/3 of what they quote. The moto taxis will carry an extraordinary variety of freight, as well as passengers.

Moto-Taxis are often quite colorful and will carry ANYTHING

More informally, some private cars and motorcycles will often pick up passengers (and cargo), especially in rural areas. Peace Corps rules prohibit this form of travel.

Add to this a remarkable willingness to walk LONG distances, and you have a transportation network that is nearly the antithesis of the US model, based almost entirely on the private vehicle.