A New Beginning - Waking Up Excited

The Municipal building in San Luis - my new home

The last two weeks of Peace Corps training have flown by – a combination of anticipating the marvelous adventure ahead and enjoying last few days together with all of Peru 18. Graduation was yesterday. The Ambassador came with full security entourage and we all promised to defend the Constitution, etc. We are fielding a strong team here in Peru. The staff have done an extraordinary job of preparing us for the challenges ahead and given us the tools to serve the people of Peru. Lost 2 vols in training, but the rest are fit and very much ready for duty. We are ready for them, but are they ready for us ?

Thanksgiving : I was sad to miss the annual Fete Extraordinaire at sister Robin’s, but there was MUCH joy and gratitude to be found right here in Santa Eulalia. I am truly grateful to be so alive and able to enjoy this adventure of service. Grateful to my beautiful host family – Jaime and Deri are a model of a beautiful marriage/friendship/team. They have housed me, fed me, coached my Spanish, made me comfortable. But most of all, have been dear and special friends. I will miss them, but take comfort that they are only 4 hours away.

WATSAN 18   Swearing In

The Master of Ceremony in me has yet to fade, as I presided over our presentation of Thanks to all of the wonderful Peace Corps staff who have nurtured Peru 18 through training – the language facilitators, who were more than teachers and guided us on various field expeditions and showed us Peruvian culture and tradition with dances and songs and food. They are real angles, every one. Our Tech Trainers, Mira and Vero gave us the tools we’ll use in the field to improve many aspects of water treatment and sanitation solutions. The directors of training, Luis and dear Katalina, who protected and guided us and were ALWAYS there for us. The gate guards also got our thanks, as did Don Filipe the groundskeeper whose heart and spirit are so clearly evident in our beautiful gardens. They all gave so much to us and in turn to their fellow Peruvians who we will be assisting.

I’ve just completed the move to San Luis. Will Jensen (surfer form Hawaii) and I taxied in to Lima and caught the Soyuz Bus down to Canete. I’m always amazed how much I learn every time I come down the Pan-Am. A huge oil refinery is under construction – said to be one of the largest in S America. This will allow Peru to refine all it’s own oil, instead of sending it out and supposedly will bring down the price of gas here – currently about US$5/gal. A quick trip to San Vicente scored electrical wire, fittings and new pillows. Some splicing, serious cleaning and electrical tape later, my room was pretty livable. More improvements must await next month’s meager PC allowance. I’m doing my best to live within the allowance, but grateful that I have US reserves to call upon, if needed.

Lots of minor repairs around the house. Again, maintenance and repair are not very popular around here – just use it until it falls apart and get a new one. Very glad I brought some of my tools, they’ve really come in handy. New house has a washer right out of pioneer days. You pull and push a handle which agitates the wash and then use a hand crank wringer – a big step up from the straight scrub and hand-wring process I’ve been using.

The hardest part of my living situation is the three small kids. They are home all the time on weekends and their parents give them zero attention or supervision. So, they want to hang on me and explore all my stuff all the time. I’m happy to give them some attention, but did not sign up for babysitting service. Thankfully, the week is coming and I’ll get some quiet time. On the other hand, I’m really dreading “summer vacation” (3 months) which starts at Christmas.

Other than that, I feel quite at home in San Luis de Tolosa de Canete, my new home town. I’ve walked most of the streets and met some good folk. They are very willing to converse and suffer through my less-than-perfect Spanish (called Castellano here). While I didn’t see many blacks in San Vicente during our earlier site visit, they are very much in evidence in San Luis. As in the US, they were brought over from Africa as slaves to work the cotton and sugar cane plantations. African dance and rhythm has become very much a part of the culture here and there is a huge annual festival in San Vicente to celebrate it.

I had a nice combi ride with the dentist at the local health post, who was on his way to play in a band. Combis are mini-vans that shuttle up and down the Pan-Am. They usually wait until they have a near full load before heading out. You can carry just about anything (within reason) on a combi and they often fill to standing room. They are an extraordinarily efficient form of transport and in some ways, much more convenient than a personal car (go ahead and GASP, Americans), in that you never have to find a parking spot or wash your car. The other alternative here is the moto-taxi ( motorcycle converted into a rickshaw like vehicle). They will haul ANYTHING from people to mattresses, 55 gallon drums, rebar, stoves to a huge stack of brick. Very very taxis around here compared to Santa Eulalia. And then, people walk A LOT. I don’t see many bikes, but hope to get one very soon from the Corps, as some of my work sites are not accessible from combi routes.

We had a power outage last night, only the second I’ve seen here (earthquakes seem more common). With all the lights out, the stars were amazingly bright. The main source of auxiliary light seems to be the ubiquitous cell phone. Everyone on the street used them for light whenever there were no headlights available. I’m truly amazed that they don’t have more power problems, given the haphazard (hazard being the operative part) wiring system. Sometimes service wires from the street will cross over another house.  Wire nuts are unheard of and the electrical tape is more like black Scotch tape. Most homes have a “fuse box” with just one 30 amp (or even 60 amp) circuit breaker for the whole house. There is usually only one outlet per room, from which extends an endless cascade of extension cords. Only saving grace from rampant fire is the all adobe/brick construction. 

Jason, the current volunteer in site, will be back from Lima tomorrow, so I can start in on some of the following projects: finish 1^st bio-digester and find site for 2^nd and install and train local talent, re-plant trees with something that doesn’t need much water, like all the fichus that died per the mayor’s request – planning to work with high school kids on that, complete my mandatory community diagnostic, get that new water system working out in the campo and train local water committee in maintenance, survey all 240 eco-latrine users on the beach and find out why, after only 11 months, most are not in use, establish a tsunami warning program for low lying beach areas, continue working with high schoolers on the tree/plant nursery, compost and worm farm, do some HIV/sex education with the health post – just for starters. One of the questions asked at graduation was “How do you know that Peace Corps service in Peru is right for you at this time?”. My response : “Because I wake up every morning excited to begin the day.”

El Condor Pasa

Living in Peru, I hear this tune often.  But most Peruvians don’t know the lyric. So, I decided to do a little research, as is my way. Americans know the tune from Simon & Garfunkel “If I could, I surely would”. But the original version is in the Quechua (ancient Inca) language and is basically a prayer for freedom from the cruel treatment of the Spanish mine owners. The Spanish lyrics are a little different, according to my translation. All appear below, as well as YouTube links to the Spanish and S&G versions. As you can see, Quechua is NOT an easy language and uses LONG compound words. But, in any language, the tune – especially when played on pipe flute – is hauntingly beautiful and captivating.
 (Quechua)
Yau kuntur llaqtay orgopy tiyaq
Maymantam gawamuhuakchianqui, kuntur kuntur
Apayllahuay llaqtanchikman, wasinchikman chay chiri orgupy,
Kutiytam munany kuntur kuntur.

fuga:
Kuzco llaqtapyn plazachallampyn suyaykamullaway,
Machupicchupy Huaynapicchupy purikunanchiqpaq.


English translation of Quechua – not mine

Oh mighty Condor owner of the skies, take me home, up into the Andes
Oh mighty Condor.
I want go back to my native place to be with my Inca brothers,
that is what I miss the most, Oh mighty Condor.

fuga:
Wait for me in Cusco, in the main plaza,
so we can take a walk in Machupicchu and Huayna-picchu.

 Modern Spanish version 
El condor de los andes despertocon la luz de un feliz amaneser 
sus alas lentamente despegoy bajo al rio azul para beber.
 tras el la tierra se cubriode verdos, de amor, y paztras el el prado floresio y el sol broto en el trigal 

el condor al pasar me dijo a misigeme mas aya y tu veras
 en la espalda del condor me sentey a volar cada vez mas el cielo 
alcansar 

mirar mirar hacia la tierratan distinto 
de lo que vifronteras no se pueden vertodo el mundo desde hayes lo que vi 

el condor de los andes desendioal llegar un feliz amaneser el condor al igual 
se despertorepitio su sobre l rebañotodos iguales

 tras el la tierra se cubriode verdor, de amor y paztras el el prado floresio y el sol broto en el trigal  


English translation of modern Spanish – with my apologies

The  condor of the Andes awoke
with the light of a joyous sunrise

The condor slowly took off his wings
and dove in the river to drink blue water

after the land was covered
in truth, love and peace
the meadow flowered and the sun broke out in the cornfield

The passing condor said to me
Fly with me  and you will see more

I rode on the back of the condor and we flew in
 the sky ever higher

look look to the land
so different from what I had seen before

borders can not be seen
around the world
that  is what I saw

The condor of the Andes descended
to reach a happy sunset

the condor as he awoke
repeated his flight
all was the same

after the land was covered in
greenery, peace and love
 the meadow flowered
and the sun broke out in the cornfield

Legend of Santa Goyo

We studied Peruvian legends in class today. I couldn't resist writing my own legend. The English translation follows:

A long time ago, a strange dog came to Peru. He stood tall on two legs and had hair of silver. He was known in other lands as Santo Goyo, friend and liberator of all dogs. He saw the dogs of Peru were held prisoner on the roof. He proclaimed in a single mighty bark, that they should all be free to run and roll in the grass and chase small animals. The dogs all came down from the roofs. The moment their feet touched the earth, Santa Yessica appeared in the sky and caused a great rain of bones of gold. There was much barking, butt sniffing and other dog celebrations in the streets of Peru.

After a time, Santo Goyo moved on to other countries and another dog appeared. His name was “Butch”, the devil dog, with hair black as the night and long, sharp teeth. He ordered that the dogs return to the roofs, where they remain to this day. But, the dogs all know in their hearts that one day Santo Goyo will return and set them free once again. As you walk the streets of Peru, the dogs will come to the edge of the roof and bark. If you listen carefully, you will hear them say “ Viva Freedom. Viva Bones”Viva El Goyo".


This is how I wrote it for Spanish class:

La Leyenda de "Santo Goyo"

Hace mucho tiempo, un perro extraño llegó al Perú. Él era alto en dos piernas y tenía el pelo de plata. Él era conocido en otros países como Santo Goyo, amigo y liberador de todos los perros. Él vio a los perros del Perú fueron hechos prisioneros en el techo. Proclamó en un ladrido único y poderoso, que todos ellos deben ser libres para correr y rodar en el pasto y caza de pequeños animales. Los perros todos descendió del los tejados. En el momento en sus pies tocaron la tierra, Santa Yessica apareció en el cielo y causó una gran lluvia de huesos de oro. Había mucho ladrar, oliendo a culo y otras celebraciones de perros en las calles de Perú.

Después de un tiempo, Santo Goyo pasó a otros países y apareció otro perro. Su nombre era "Butch", el perro del diablo, con el pelo negro como la noche y los dientes largos y afilados. Ordenó que los perros regresar a los tejados, donde permanecen hasta nuestros días. Sin embargo, todos los perros saben en sus corazones que un día Santo Goyo volverá y liberarlos una vez más. Mientras caminas por las calles de Perú, los perros llegan al borde del techo y la corteza. Si usted escucha con cuidado, se les oye decir: "¡ Viva la Libertad. Viva los huesos. Viva El Goyo”

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Tippy Taps

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE – exclusive to Cuerpo de Paz Peru Santa Eulalia – 03 October 2011

by Greg Plimpton on Monday, October 3, 2011 at 8:00pm ·

ANNOUNCING : The New and Improved “Tippy-Tap”

The WATSAN tribe of Peru 18 is pleased to announce two improvements to the brilliant and innovative “Tippy-Tap” hand-washing device, pioneered by our WATSAN predecessors. The improvements eliminate the possible loss of the convenient soap holder and allow for height adjustment to accommodate users of various heights. Best of all, the 18er modifications add value without ANY additional cost or materials, providing more “bang for the Sol”.

The first TTM (PC for Tippy-Tap Modification) comes from David Witte and involves simply making a hole in the soap holder and passing the string hanger through it. Thus, eliminating the possibility of misplacing the holder while filling the reservoir. Credit for the second TTM goes to Teddy Shriver (yes, that Shriver). It involves tying two (or more) simple overhand knots in the hanging string, allowing the Tippy-Tap to be adjusted to various heights from a single hanging point.

No longer will Tippy Tap aficionados suffer the shameful embarrassment of soap-holder loss. The vertically challenged can now enjoy a hand-washing without soap and water running down their arms. Tall users will appreciate the relief from back stress due to a low down Tippy Tap.

A WATSAN 18 spokesperson commented,  “Clearly, we stand on the shoulders of previous WATSAN giants. They were and are pioneers, who have blazed a trail for us to follow. They set the bar pretty high, and we aim to set it even higher.”