Wheelchairs for San Luis

A wheelchair for Santa Barbara

Another for dear Isabella

Loading the chairs on the bus in Lima

Picking up the chairs in Lima

Angel called the garbage truck to come fetch us from the Pan Am

So, life in the construction zone goes on. The water has been off during the day. Good thing I shower early. Many Peruvians (and PCVs) deal with this on a daily basis, so I can’t really complain. It also means no use of the toilet. On Fernando’s sage advice I had two options – walk down to his sister-in-law’s house or use a plastic bag. I chose the latter. Not as hard or bad as it sounds. Sorry, if the frankness is uncomfortable, but this is my life.

We had a near riot on the Combi coming home from Canete the other night. The fare goes up from 38 to 57 cents after 9pm. So, there was a crowd to get on the last flight out before 9, as usual. It left the stand at 8:56. When the conductor announced that the fare would be higher, since we didn’t actually get on the Pan Am until just after 9, the whole bus erupted. 19 cents is really a lot to some folks here. And I think some just yelled for the fun of it. Anyway he didn’t back down. I probably wasn’t appreciated when I paid the higher fare, but I did. So did about half the passengers – 6 of whom were standing. Again, this is my life.

Not all bad though, out on dawn patrol this morning, Norma had set up her usual Sunday “brunch” stand down the street, since the sidewalk in front of her house is under a small mountain of dirt. She sells tamales – chicken, pork or fruit – and a nasty blood sausage, that Fernando loves. Me….not so much. I’ll go with the fruit tamale every time. And a nice chichi morada – the blue corn drink. We had a nice chat, commiserating over the construction. Her husband has an ancient printing press that I adore. It’s not waffles and omelets at the Marriott, but it’s good. And it’s my life.

The circus is in town again. Same show as last time. Why they’ve gone ahead and set up in the middle of construction is a mystery. Access is over a long stretch of dirt covered sidewalk, with only a foot or so of clearance and then over a 6 ft pile of dirt and debris. Still, there was a fair crowd for Saturday night. I didn’t go in, just stood with the crowd outside of folks who didn’t want to (or couldn’t) pay the 52 cent admission. Lots of US carnival style music, some bad singing and some girly dancers. The BIG thing is the clowns. Many clown acts, mostly slap-stick and some downright cruel. Every time the big macho clown hits the little effeminate clown with a rubber bat, the crowd erupts with laughter and applause. Same as watching 3 Stooges movie on the bus. This is one element of the culture I have yet to grok.

I adore the kids at my house. Little Amir is so soft and smiling. Comes into my room the most. We have a ritual of high 5’s : Arriba, Abajo, Despacio (High, Low, Too slow). Every day – sometimes he actually gets the Rapido last one. Always on the hunt for food, and usually finds it. Loves my tool collection and has a million questions about everything. Camila has been spending lots of time with her teenage aunts, growing up fast, growing a little distant. I was so proud when my sister Darcy sent some simple “girly” gifts and she insisted on writing a Thank You. Quite the lady, this one. We did it on Goyo’s computer which was taking for-ev-er, so tried to step in and type. She pushed me off and insisted that “it wouldn’t be from her” if I typed it. Santiago is still the devil. His speech thing is getting better. He can be mean to Amir, which I don’t like. But good kids. When I first moved in, I actually thought I couldn’t live here because of the constant intrusions. But, turns out, I kind of enjoy it now.

Lunch Today: Salad – lentil sprouts, tomato, amazing avocado, cilantro and onion, with Goyo’s secret dressing, topped with goat Feta cheese. And two Feta sandwiches. Glass of chicha morada from Norma. OMG so good. Total cost :about 45 US cents. I guy can live well here on very little.

Fernando invited me to “Casa Blanca” to help celebrate his birthday. It is a large white compound, located a discreet distance from the Pan Am Hwy, between San Luis and San Vicente. It is the local whore-house. He promised very pretty young girls and “very clean”, but expensive drinks. A friend of mine (who claims to have visited, but not partaken) says none is true, except the latter. The price is certainly right 15-20 soles (US$6-8) for a “poke”, depending on the quality selected. Reportedly, business is conducted in small cubicles. It is said that the length of the line waiting outside the stall, is directly proportional to the looks of the denizen thereof. The establishment is strictly BYOC. While I am totally down with cultural exchange, I respectfully declined this one.

A meeting with the director of the Colegio Mixto was productive. In one fell swoop, my charming and forceful socios Gloria and Esther, got classroom space during school hours for us to teach the HIV/STD, teen pregnancy prevention program Pasos Adelante. As well, we have use of a classroom after school for working with the teachers and parents and set-up the correspondence program with a class in Golden, CO. All classes will be with 16 year olds, the oldest age in the school and the last year of public / required education here. After that, it’s 2 years of Pre-University (not available in my little pueblo, but in Canete) and then University, mostly in Lima. Needless to say, around here most education ends at 16 or before.

Mama Alicia just dropped off a nice apple pie – about the only pie they make around here. Fernando and I built her a big industrial cocina way back in June, but dividends are still flowing. I find it amazingly sweet that she would think of me/us so long after the work. But, as I’ve said before, the people of this town are wonderfully kind and generously thoughtful. Now….to share, or not to share……….

My dear friend Angel and I had a wonderful adventure together, going to Lima to fetch 7 brand-new wheelchairs, donated by the Princeton Class of ’77 and the Wheelchair Foundation. The new Muni suddenly got unavailable, so – as often happens here – fell back to Plan B. Jumped on the Soyuz to Lima, had some fruit I brought for breakfast and good chats. Missed our stop (my fault) and had to scramble out to the far north side of Lima on a patchwork of over-crowded and under-maintained buses, culminating in a moto-taxi ride to the Policlinica where the chairs are stored.

They were all ready for us, which was a nice surprise. But the shipping boxes were too big to fit in the standard small wagon taxis. Plan B2 – Angel went out and found a small panel truck and negotiated a brilliant fare back to central Lima. We presented a beautifully bound Muni Proclamation and 2 bottles of very nice local Pisco. Angel really knows how to say thank you. He is a pleasure to know and work with. Proud to call him my friend. Jovial and energetic and bright, he always has a good idea and truly cares about making our pueblo the best it can be.

The ride back to downtown was slow and cramped. The explosion of private cars is choking the main arteries. A Teachers’ Strike in city center caused even more delays. The Police were out in full riot gear, with tanks and urban assault vehicles and mounted Cavalry !! Looked ready to repel and army. After an interminable concert of blaring horns and whistles, we made our way to the bus terminal, loaded the chairs below and took the upper front “E Ticket” seats. Angel rounded up some outstanding “Chifa” Chinese  take-out and 3 liters of Inca Kola, so we enjoyed a good meal, conversation and vistas all the way home to San Luis. Yes, I even drank the Inca.

The bus, rather unceremoniously dumped us and 7 huge boxes at the side of the busy Pan Am, by the stadium. The Muni pickup being – once again – otherwise engaged, Angel did his usually magic and summoned one of the Muni garbage trucks to ferry us into Town Hall. There, we were greeted as returning heroes, amid busy unpacking of boxes and enthusiastic “test-drives”.

And the construction continues : A break in the water line, caused by all the sewer construction has turned our usually US style water, into a murky soup. Should be better by Monday, they say. But meanwhile, I'm boiling and buying bottled water - just like most of my fellow Peace Corps Volunteers do every day. Boiling water, travelling 2 hours to use internet, bank or shop or buy hardware are S.O.P. for most PCVs. I have been blessed with none of these impediments. For which I am constantly thankful.

Coming to a Boil

The front of my house - with torn up street

New sewer connection

And then came the new water lines

It’s been a busy week here in San Luis de Canete, my home town. Catching up from being away for a week. So many balls in the air –

wheelchairs, finishing all the paperwork for each recipient with Angel and going to pick up chairs next week

kids’ playgrounds, grant just approved – will now get posted to PC website for public funding. Don’t worry, I’ll give you all fair warning when it is ready for you to make a deductable donation !!

HIV/STD prevention, Got our funds in and meeting with classes and teachers to get the Pasos Adelante program going

biodigesters, #1 still kickin gas and biol – working on biol sales. #2 going well and making more gas than #1, working on extra storage bags and new gas line

burial grounds, still leading tours to Cerro de Oro and trying to find some agency interested in protecting the site – or even better – excavating it properly.

cocinas consulting, I’ve become the answer man for PCVs and still supervising local builders.

solar pumps, got my ECPA funding in and dealing with vendors in Lima – not as easy as buying in US – much higher prices and slow. The prototype (Thanks Cuz Jan) has been working well.

eco-bano rehab, still working with the Muni and the big milk company Gloria on funding method. Gloria go from the start, but PC rules prohibit my taking money directly from a Peruvian company – the end-run is difficult

work with water committees – La Quebrada just finished their new water lines, so time to go WATCH them do a cleaning/disinfection. Laura Caller contacted me about working with them – score one for handing out PC business cards!

Reports – being a part of a US Gov’t agency has its benefits. I guess the reports are small price to pay

WWS – old friend Fred Drake just hooked me up with one of the teachers at his school. We’re still working out the details of this cultural exchange between our respective classes of 16 yr olds

ALMA camp – this camp for raining self-esteem and leadership skills of teenage girls will be hosted at the goat farm – some improvements needed

And in the midst of all this, comes PROGRESS – so called. San Luis is getting new sewer lines. New orange plastic pipe will replace the old concrete sections. They had so much crud – pretty sure that’s a technical term – in them that backups were common. Not mention cracks and disconnects from earthquakes. No more. Howsumever, the whole town is torn up, combis rerouted, and dirt and concrete dust everywhere, not to mention a certain odor. The contractor they hired seems pretty good, good equipment (most Peruvian projects are strictly hand work) and well trained crew. A pleasure to watch them.

Not only that, but many residents are taking advantage of the plethora of sand and rocks, for making improvements to their houses. And to top that, the power company decided this would be a great time to install new poles and transformers and lines in town. Came home the yesterday to find no power, internet or water. Just like some PCVs. Now, I find out our sewer line is blocked until tomorrow. Glad I did my duty already – but what about in the morning? Margarita says I can go down the road to her aunt’s house – oh fun. Hope she gets up early.

I had a wonderful visit with my training buddy and fellow PCV Brian. He and his lovely wife live up in Amazonas. I always enjoy visits from other Volunteers – quite a family we have here. We visited the goat farm, where we were treated to samples of cheese and yogurt and got to see some of the production process. Plus learned more about goat breeding than I really care to know. Also saw the biodigester, Cocinas and solar pump. Then we did the Cerro de Oro trip. About all I hear up there is OMG and Holy Shit. It’s one thing to see the photos and quite another to be standing amid hundreds of skulls, bones and artifacts, looking out at tens of thousands more.

Princeton Engineers Without Borders

Hanging on the side of the mountain

Proudly wearing the orange with the EWB group

working at 8000 ft altitude is hard

It was a tight squeeze to get PVC pipe to site

The EWB group takes a rest

I spent the last week in Samne, up north in La Libertad, about 2 hours into the mountains from Trujillo at 6500 ft. The Princeton Engineers Without Borders is building a new potable drinking water system in the even more remote site of Pitahaya. The supply line runs 6 km from the source to the village, which sits high on a ridge above the Moche River. A second system will be built to serve Pitahaya Baja. That source is much closer, but too low to serve the higher village.

After an overnight bus from Lima to Trujillo, I took a really rough combi ride up to Samne, a small town with good water system, sewer and winding roads with 300 ft drops off the sides. The area is famous for it’s pineapples, which are grown EVERYWHERE. Unlike Canete, with its flat and rich soil, these folks farm on slopes of like 60 – 70 degrees. I stayed with Mama Rosa, Harrison Barnes host Mom, before he left PC due to back problems. No internet at all and cell service that only worked in 3 small points out on the edges of town, made life frustrating and work slow.

When I got to town, the 7 young EWB Volunteers were off to nearby Otusco, to get permission to use a new spring source. They had recently discovered that the source they planned to use was too seasonal to work. The new Source is much better, but access is via a goat path. I actually declined to go the last 100 yds for fear of death or serious injury. The path was about a foot wide, against a rock wall, with a 500 ft drop.

The new source has created all sorts of delays and problems. New plans had to be drawn, permissions obtained, papers filed, material list revised, etc. And everything takes longer here. Some offices are only open in the morning and others close at will. There is no FedEx, so documents can be carried by a friend or relative who happen to be going that way. This is even more of an issue for EWB, who are only in country for a month at a time. A good case for the 2 year PC term.

Despite the set-backs, the 7 undergraduate Tigers were wonderful to work with. Bright, alert and inquisitive – full of questions about my experiences at Princeton and beyond. They also did classes at the local school in water use, hand-washing and ecology.

The first day, a few of us went out to measure the new source spring and re-survey the whole length of the water line route. The entire route runs along-side and existing aqueduct, which carries Moche River water to the town. Sadly, the upstream mines have been dumping toxins in the river. At one point they hit a vein of Arsenic, which caused crops to wither (imagine what it was doing to the people?). The government put a stop to that mine, but the water is still not fit for drinking. We measured the areas where iron pipe will be required. The route runs in and out of 4 canyons, so we looked at where it might be worthwhile to run across the canyon with a cable support. The hike was not easy – at altitude, along a path that was only 1 ft wide in places. Big rocks had fallen in other areas and were split with hand chisel and removed to the extent that passage was possible. All the canyons, except the first, were steep and rocky – views were spectacular. About half way to the village, we were met by a delightful young woman, who had carried our lunches all the way from town. And enjoyed a picnic with a view, as they say.

The village of Pitahaya is just now getting electricity. Latrines were built there last year. The residents hand carried the concrete light pole up the hill, while maintaining their fields – mostly pineapples and avocado. They work hard on these improvements and Alan, the former mayor of Samne also gives great support. Next year they’ll have good water. Meanwhile, they’re using water that has metal and bacteria contamination.

Some of the crew and I went to Trujillo on a hardware and document run the next day. The combi only runs 3 times each day and carries all manner of freight along with passengers. The route is a single lane road, full of cut-backs with hair-pin turns and rough beyond words. Everything seems to take forever. Just adjusting the materials order was a Herculean effort. On top of that, one of our expedition came down with the revenge and was laid low at the Colonial Hotel, where PCVs usually stay. A pleasant surprise was running into other PCVs from La Libertad at the hotel. Always a treat.

Emily and I returned to base for more planning. All meals were at Mama Luz’s place. Good food – huge portions, as usual.  Dinner conversation reminded me so much of Princeton. Multiple topics, changing frequently – insightful, thoughtful and articulate. Particularly delightful, coming from a bunch of engineers. No offense, PG. There was not the alcohol consumption I experience among PCVs, which was refreshing.

Next day, the materials were supposed to be loaded in Trujillo at 8:30am. Well, first the hired truck was late, and then found to be too short. The second truck finally got loaded at 2pm. Every time a phone call was made required a trek to one of the few reception sites in town. Even then, dropped calls were plentiful. We finally loaded in the Police pick-up for the ride (with flashing lights) to where the truck would arrive to wait. And wait. And wait. The truck had been stopped 4 times along the route for having PVC pipes sticking out the back. Each time was a 2 to 5 sole ($0.60 - $2) bribe.

We rode atop the truck up a VERY narrow and partially washed out road (more like wide path), wedged between rock cliff and sheer drop-off. At several places, the driver refused to continue until rocks were added to the side for support. When we reached the materials staging area, which is still ¼ mile up to the village, we unloaded the truck and covered with tarps. Men from the village came down to help. They would grab pipe bundles by themselves and sprint up the hill. We used 2 volunteers per bundle. And walked. The driver got wedged in the turn-around and required serious McGuyver engineering to extract it. The ride down was even better, though both were definitely “E” tickets.

The final day was a presentation to the village – had to break the news that the water line would not be finished this trip. Hard for everyone. Though, I sense that the residents were a little relieved – they have been working hard on the electric project and neglecting their crops. The reservoir tank will be completed and the source secured and contained. Some pipe will be laid for use at the source end and canyon crossings will be refined, but that is about all that can be reasonably accomplished this trip.

I returned to Trujillo to search for polyethylene glue for a biodigester experiment, but came up empty. The ride home was my first  Super Cama experience. Like 1^st class international. Me Likee.

Forward

Well, color me happy. After two weeks of design, approval, budget approval, ordering materials. And Waiting. My big metal sheet finally got delivered to the welding shop in San Luis. Those of you sitting in the States know that this could have all been done in about an hour, but here is another matter. Materials and transport and communication are all poor – all holds this country back from getting things done. It will become the center-piece for the new security cover for the Vista Alegre spring box. The welder did an excellent job of fabricating – charged all of $7 for some beautiful work. All materials moved to construction site. Sunday was the appointed construction time. Everyone showed up promptly and worked hard and well. My plan and design both worked well. I had everything and everything fit like the proverbial glove. The boys were especially delighted that I showed up with 3 liters of Inca-Kola. Personally, I can’t stand the stuff, but Peruvians LOVE it. My Pappy always told me – Keep yer Crew Happy.

Job completed in LESS time than I had anticipated. Nothing that could go wrong did. So, the boys and I retired to some more Inca and beer and picked on the carcass of a half lamb from a roast the night before. Fresh roasted lamb sandwiches with some chopped onion and mint sauce. Damn, I LOVE my “job”. They brought out some moonshine Pisco and I made a graceful exit. The bike ride home was via the “secret back road” through the agricultural fields. No one out working, so just me and nature. I love “working” in this agricultural area – crops all around in various stages of growth. The sun came out and I was feeling particularly blessed. I must have been really good to my Mom or something. Then, going through Laura Caller – there was my buddy Angel, who offered the Muni truck and driver to help me tomorrow. I just about cried at the support and cooperation and appreciation I get from these wonderful folks. Damn, I love this “job”.

I did come across a cool materials find – a 12VDC compact fluorescent bulb. Never even seen one in the US. The solar water pumps will have some extra battery power that can be used for lights or charging cell phones. These little bulbs will make that power go much further than using yucky old car incandescents. I’ll be glad when September rolls around and our cloud cover disappears.

The town has put together a detailed list of folks who need wheelchairs, which I will carry to Lima when I meet with the head of Wheelchair Foundation. Hopefully, we can put something together on short notice.

Two trips to Lima (aka Big Lime) this week. A good visit at Q-Energy, the folks who sell solar panels. Very nice, clean organized operation. Saw a neat new small modular system they sell which includes a USB charging port and 3 way LED bulb. After, I visited the PC Center, which always feels like “going home”. Our staff is welcoming and always helpful. Sadly learned that 2 more of my WATSAN crew are leaving service. It just doesn’t work out for some folks.

Second trip was to attend a cocktail party for the Wheelchair Foundation and the Class of ’77 Princetonians who have brought 500 chairs to Peru. I snagged 5 for my pueblo. The home was one of those Lima estates that brings to mind Beverly Hills. White jacketed servers plied the crowd with drinks and extraordinary Peruvian food. One of the Princeton Engineers Without Borders was there – I’ll be working with them later this month – building a new water system up north. I am so proud to be a part of an alumni body that gives back some of what they have been given in life.

From the Peruvian Transportation & Culture Dept – Soyuz is a really well run bus company. Their buses are always clean, with a very nice and reasonable on-board snack service, an alert and helpful staff and brass-balled drivers who rule the Road between Lima and Nazca. They show recent movies – (most certainly pirated – but that’s a whole ‘nuther matter). One recent feature was the Three Stooges. My brothers and I watched the Stooges on TV in our youth during Saturday AM cartoon shows. But I don’t ever remember laughing as hard at the cruel slap-stick as Peruvians do. Every time Moe slapped or swung a hammer on his hapless buddies, the entire bus burst into laughter. The classic chainsaw bit – where Moe ruins a chainsaw blade in Curly’s skull – brought the house down. I’ve noticed this penchant for violent slap-stick before, but the Stooges brought the phenomenon into crystal clear focus. I’ll leave it to some sociologist to explain the cultural reaction.

The next fruit after my beloved mandarin oranges have run their season……(drumroll)….Pineapples. Beautiful, small dark yellow fleshed, sweet as candy, drip form your mouth pineapples. It’s been a prolific parade of local fruits since I got here. I am so very grateful to live in Canete. Not just the food and perfect weather – the people and local pride. Yeah, color me happy.

And tired. Good Night, Sweet Princes and Princesses……

Huaytara and Horns

With Dan & Carrie in Huaytara

The stone work is finer than Machu Pichu - looks like laser cuts

This structure has survived multiple major earthquakes

Another trip to Lima. Played the dang 3 Stooges movie again. This time I even started to laugh. Just because everyone on the bus is cracking up over the slap-stick. I managed to score some very rare Bird Posters at the PC Center. Learned that, while I am now the oldest PCV in Peru, a 63 yr-old woman is coming with the Health program of Peru 20 to take my crown. Easy come, easy go.

The monthly Regional Meeting was in the small mountain village of Huaytara. I went there with my friends Dan & Carrie, married Vols from nearby. They were part of the reason I chose Canete to serve. Really beautiful couple. Took the Soyuz down to San Clemnte and then a collectivo up into the mountains. Collectivo is a station wagon that goes from A to B. They wait until full (or overfull) to go. Beautiful drive up the Pisco River valley. Pisco only runs during rainy season, so is almost dry now. There are some minor ruins along the way. When we got higher up, the farms are all terraced - tons of work. There are some active copper mines. Big steep hills/mountains.

The church is built of adobe on an ancient base

Huaytara is a small town, but VERY nice hotel (for US$5/night) even had warmish water. Sun was very bright - it's been cloudy here for last 2 months. We walked up to the big church, which is built on ancient Mayan era walls. These walls are not adobe, but cut rock. The cuts are so perfect and straight, they looked like sawn or laser cut. After God knows how many earthquakes, you still could not slip a knife blade between the stones - incredible construction - after 500 years !!! We had a special Pachamanca dinner (lamb, fava beans, potato and camote). Absolutely scrumptious, though not served until 8:30pm. Met some of the new PCV group - great kids all. I went back to the hotel at 10 and the gang stayed for more cervezas.

Next morning as usual, I was the only early riser. Shower was slightly warm, which was nice. Found some sweet bread, papaya/orange juice and coffee for breakfast and stopped into the Internet cabina. Horrible dark, keyboard keys stuck and letters worn off and slow as molasses on a cold night. We had a good meeting, mostly getting to know the newbies and vice-versa. Then headed back home. I waited 1/2 hour for the collectivo to fill. The driver drove like a grandmother and took 1/2 hr more than the one coming up. Then, all the buses going north were full and had to find another collectivo to Chincha, where I could finally get on the Soyuz home.

Arrived home late and got up early next day to install the new water pump at Vista Alegre. Had a small delay at the hardware store for a part, then off on my trusty bike (Yes, I STILL love it) with all parts, tools and 2x2.5M pipes slung to the frame. I felt EVERY bump on the road. Sunday, so no Muni truck available. Actually, it was available but no driver. So, being a good boy, I resisted temptation and busted my butt on the bike rather than break PC policy. Harumpf. Installation went well and I reamed out the slot for the metal plate at a couple of tight spots. When all was ready, we fired up the generator (after I put wire nuts on a couple of bare wire connections in the fuse box). Pump ran great for about 30 seconds. Then the generator ran out of gas. No way to get more gas, so made a tactical retreat. Basically MISSION ACCOMPLISHED, but frustrated that the JASS didn’t have gas in the tank.

Got home MUCH faster and easier. Had a bite and then took Jenn, the new #2 at PCHQ in Lima and her family up to Cerro de Oro burial ground. Even after seeing the photos, everyone who visits there is awed at the bones and artifacts. Still stymied and puzzled at the lack of Peruvian interest in this amazing site.

An unusual morning. Someone came to the door with a message from Senora Bell. She said that her husband, Jimmy Bell has died and she wanted me to have all his Ham Radio equipment. I have no idea what I would do with all the equipment - no

time, space, etc.
Amazing that she could get a note to me. But then, "The Gringo in San Luis" is a perfectly valid address.
I only met this delightful gentleman once and am sad that I didn't get back to see him. Our meeting is described in my Note 25:

“I was also intrigued by a huge radio antenna array, which is why I went back to check this out. My curiosity led me to an attractive home behind high hedges and a massive gate. I rang the buzzer and a young man came to the gate, took a quick look at me and rushed away. A painfully long time later, an elderly man appeared. He did not seem happy to see me. Until I asked about the antenna and blurted out my radio call “KD6ZCC”. “Zulu-Charlie-Charlie” he exclaimed and beamed and threw the gate wide open.

My persistence was well rewarded by a visit with a new “Ham” radio friend, James Bell. That’s right, a Peruvian named James Bell; descended from the British family that brought Pima cotton to Peru, way back when. And who speaks near perfect Queen’s English. On air, “Jimmy” is OAA5 (oscar,alpha,alpha,five). This was originally his grandfather’s call sign – the FIFTH ever issued in Peru – and he now holds it. His antenna array is the best I’ve ever seen. We had a jolly good time, sipping gin & tonic (with REAL ICE!!) and sharing tales of ham radio. He was impressed with the half-wave 80M antenna I built in Mexico and I was impressed with his whole set-up – state-of-the art – which is housed in its own room in a VERY nice home. It was seriously hard to believe I was in Middle Nowhere, Peru. His lovely wife, Isabella, very politely listened to us yammer on and on about radio stuff and kept our glasses and tummies quite full with G&T and an amazingly good guacamole – first time I’ve ever seen it in Peru, despite the abundance of avocado. I feel like I’ve just been to another world. Jimmy now runs what is left of the family holdings in Peru. The family plantation was down near Chincha, about 30 miles south. He still grows some cotton locally, though just for “tradition” and is a partner in one of the big commercial fisheries which produces fish-meal. He doesn’t like the “snobs” in Lima and prefers a simple (but VERY comfortable) life in San Luis. I REALLY like this guy.

Not much of a bike ride, but it was certainly a great day. I am so appreciative of how the willingness to explore, to take a chance and knock on a total stranger’s gate in a foreign land, will often be richly rewarded. And that I’ve had the opportunities in my life to learn about and experience so many of the hidden worlds like ham radio, scuba, solar power, aviation, etc – which so often build an instant bond with others. This web of connections gives me enormous pleasure every day. Lately, I’m particularly grateful for all my family and friends and fellow Volunteers, who provide technical advice and support for my service here with the Corps. So much of what I do depends on channeling information from others into solutions for problems here. And in being that conduit, I get to learn all manner of new stuff. Which is nice.”

Another good expedition to the Cerro De Oro burial site this week, with the new PC #2, Jenny White, her husband Kevin and son (6) Carter, the youngest and most intrepid explorer yet. We found some extraordinary cloth samples, some 1000 yr old nicely spliced rope and a field of jasmine fragrant air-plants were the highlights. Carter was a delight – full of questions and ideas about the Huari. I always enjoy seeing that spark of curiosity and creativity in kids.

Pineapples are the new “in season” fruit here. I’d never had a really ripe pineapple, fresh from the field before Peru. They are entirely different and vastly superior to the stuff in a Dole can. The “fill-in” fruit is bananas. They are ALWAYS in season. All shapes and sizes and colors. My favorites are the small fingers and the mid-sized with orangey flesh. I had my first banana bread today. Strange that it is so uncommon, with the bounty of bananas.

A good work day with my Miguel Angel, my PCRC (regional coordinator). We went out to the Goat Farm, where the biodigester was filled with gas, close to explosion. We hooked up the storage bladder and it filled in 10 minutes. 14 days since charging the tube with shit-soup. Musta been the pig intestine the boys put in. MA was also looking to hold the next Camp ALMA – a youth camp sponsored by PCVs – to teach leadership skills to young women. The boys were HIGHLY enthusiastic and it looks like it’s a done deal. I love those guys.

Then we zipped over to the VA spring, but Eulario was in town. So, we headed up to Cerro de Oro to see the bones. The boneyard never fails to impress. No one else can fathom why there seems so little interest in investigating or preserving this area.

A couple of “cultural notes”: Most Peruvian men have little facial hair. The few attempts at moustache or beard are pretty pathetic. Rather than shave, they tend to pluck beard hairs with tweezers. This is considered perfectly acceptable behavior in public, even when driving a combi. Speaking of combis – the almost psychic ability of drivers and conductors to read the body language of folks on the side of the road ahead and KNOW whether they want on, is uncanny. The subtlest turn of shoulders or head is enough. And, (Bart Simpson fans take note) they really do say “Caramba !!” here. Google politely translates as : darn, good grief or heck. I find it more like “Ain’t that a bitch (McMurphy)”.

When I first got to Peru, I was really annoyed by the seemingly CONSTANT horn honking from just about every vehicle on the road. But, after a while, I realized there was a method to the madness. My new friend Kevin did, too, and codified the cacophony as follows: 

PERU HORNS     By Kevin Bostwick

THE CULTURE OF HONKING is particular here. I am tempted to hang my laptop out the window to record.

The "here I come" safety short-honk 
--- just to let someone moving into your space know that, indeed, you are not stopping...honk

The "I'm the taxi you are looking for" double-tap
--- walking down the street, looking content? Maybe you want a taxi?...honk-honk

The, I kid you not, "shave and a haircut" honk for extra-humorous cabbies
--- hard to resist... honk----honk-a-honk-honk---honk-honk

The "you overstepped" 3-beat honk
--- been cut off in the typical way? Lay on the horn a bit longer... hooonk

The "taxi is stopped to negotiate a fare and blocking a lane" 6-beat honk
--- it's not like the cabbie is going to care that someone is honking, but what the heck? hoooooonk

The "traffic is at a stop and I can't see what is holding things up" honk
--- just lay on the horn for however long it takes for you to feel better. hooooooooooooooooooonk

Add to this symphony the yells of the combi barkers yelling their destinations, the circa 1991 car alarms, the sirens of all urban center, and suddenly 4am can seem blissfully quiet.

From : http://bostwickwhite.blogspot.com/2012/08/pearl-of-paradise.html?spref=fb

Saturday, I’ll be teaching Bike Training to the new group of PCVs in Lima – just the ones getting bikes. Rushing back for the Kutuka music concert here in San Luis. Then Sunday long bus ride up to Trujillo to help the Princeton Engineers Without Borders build a new water system for a small town. They are long on engineers and short on construction folks. I hope to mostly be forming the smaller concrete structures.

Fiestas Patrias

Cajon practice - learning from the master

         After running fast and hard for the last 7 months, a flu bug came to visit and gave me a 3 day “stay-cation”, right after my visit to Ica for a Regional Meeting. I presented a Progress Report on my work thus far in site. I’m actually a little disappointed with these meetings – they appear to be mostly an opportunity for the youngsters to get together and “party” (drink). Even with an 11am starting time, only 2 PCVs managed to be on-time and many never showed due to a “long night” before. Plans for the rest of the day included the grand opening of a new bar in town and another “pre-opening” party before that. Hard for me to watch these really caring and bright kids waste so much time on a counter-productive activity.

Camila in parade dress

A flurry of Princetonians – My friend John Cardenas ’89 at USAID gave me a lead on some funding that might be available to help preserve and protect the Cerro de Oro burial site. Bill Farrell ’77 is coming to town with the Wheelchair Foundation to donate some much needed wheelchairs around Peru. And the undergraduates from Princeton Engineers Without Borders are building a water system in northern Peru. Orange all over the place.

There were parties all over town each and every night this week – Fiestas Patrias – kinda like 4^th of July on steroids. Parades and (of course) bombs – all    week     long. I did get to speak with a professor from Lima about the Cerro de Oro burial ground. He confirmed it was late Huari (800-1100AD). I guess this site has been known for some time. But the looting is unprecedented.

Plenty of dancing on this parade float

Slowing things down even more is a strike by the national postal service Serpost – such as it is. With no home delivery and very little mail of any kind, the strike is largely unnoticed by the average Peruvian. Were it not for the steady stream of packages for us Gringos, I doubt they’d stay in business.

My favorite part of the celebrations was a Cajon concert and dance by the young kids that have been training with the Old Masters. This dedicated and highly enthusiastic group of 7^th & 8^th graders played as well as any pros in their bright costumes. The young ladies had some dance moves that were , frankly, provocative beyond their years. The instruments were pure organic – the cajon started out as a modified packing crate and a cow jaw and stick – just doesn’t get more organic than that. My friend and most excellent Socio Angel Garcia made it all happen. I’m really grateful to work with someone who cares so deeply about seeing our little town move forward. In fact, there was a recent newspaper article on corruption in Canete Province. Of the 16 Districts, San Luis was one of only 4 said to be free of serious corruption.

And yet another para-military parade of little kids and big flags. It is nice to hear all the children singing the National Hymn – loud. It reminds me of the French anthem – a rousing march, but with less bloody lyrics. They even know the words to the San Luis song. The parade was led by some of the local lads who have just graduated from the regional police academy. This is a big deal around here, as police and military are well respected jobs. There was also a big banner proclaiming San Luis’ success in the recent math and language exams : Math was about 25% passing grade and language at 40%. This seemed low to me, but, it was well above the National average.

As I wandered among the crowd, happily munching on anticucho (heart) kabob and chaclo (corn-on-the-cob), I realized how very comfortable I feel here. This is my kind of town. Like Elwood Dowd in “Harvey”, I always seem to have a marvelous time – wherever I am, whomever I’m with. I’m grateful for that.

Amir dressed up for parade