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| With Dan & Carrie in Huaytara |
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| The stone work is finer than Machu Pichu - looks like laser cuts |
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| This structure has survived multiple major earthquakes |
Another trip to Lima.
Played the dang 3 Stooges movie again. This time I even started to laugh. Just
because everyone on the bus is cracking up over the slap-stick. I managed to
score some very rare Bird Posters at the PC Center. Learned that, while I am
now the oldest PCV in Peru,
a 63 yr-old woman is coming with the Health program of Peru 20 to take my crown. Easy
come, easy go.
The monthly Regional Meeting was in the small mountain village of Huaytara. I went there with my friends
Dan & Carrie, married Vols from nearby. They were part of the reason I
chose Canete to serve. Really beautiful couple. Took the Soyuz down to San
Clemnte and then a collectivo up into the mountains. Collectivo is a station
wagon that goes from A to B. They wait until full (or overfull) to go.
Beautiful drive up the Pisco
River valley. Pisco only
runs during rainy season, so is almost dry now. There are some minor ruins
along the way. When we got higher up, the farms are all terraced - tons of
work. There are some active copper mines. Big steep hills/mountains.
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| The church is built of adobe on an ancient base |
Huaytara is a small town, but VERY nice hotel (for
US$5/night) even had warmish water. Sun was very bright - it's been cloudy here
for last 2 months. We walked up to the big church, which is built on ancient
Mayan era walls. These walls are not adobe, but cut rock. The cuts are so
perfect and straight, they looked like sawn or laser cut. After God knows how
many earthquakes, you still could not slip a knife blade between the stones -
incredible construction - after 500 years !!! We had a special Pachamanca
dinner (lamb, fava beans, potato and camote). Absolutely scrumptious, though
not served until 8:30pm. Met some of the new PCV group - great kids all. I went
back to the hotel at 10 and the gang stayed for more cervezas.
Next morning as usual, I was the
only early riser. Shower was slightly warm, which was nice. Found some sweet
bread, papaya/orange juice and coffee for breakfast and stopped into the
Internet cabina. Horrible dark, keyboard keys stuck and letters worn off and
slow as molasses on a cold night. We had a good meeting, mostly getting to know
the newbies and vice-versa. Then headed back home. I waited 1/2 hour for the
collectivo to fill. The driver drove like a grandmother and took 1/2 hr more
than the one coming up. Then, all the buses going north were full and had to
find another collectivo to Chincha, where I could finally get on the Soyuz
home.
Arrived home late and got up early
next day to install the new water pump at Vista Alegre. Had a small delay at
the hardware store for a part, then off on my trusty bike (Yes, I STILL love
it) with all parts, tools and 2x2.5M pipes slung to the frame. I felt EVERY
bump on the road. Sunday, so no Muni truck available. Actually, it was
available but no driver. So, being a good boy, I resisted temptation and busted
my butt on the bike rather than break PC policy. Harumpf. Installation went
well and I reamed out the slot for the metal plate at a couple of tight spots.
When all was ready, we fired up the generator (after I put wire nuts on a
couple of bare wire connections in the fuse box). Pump ran great for about 30
seconds. Then the generator ran out of gas. No way to get more gas, so made a
tactical retreat. Basically MISSION
ACCOMPLISHED, but frustrated that the JASS didn’t have gas in the tank.
Got home MUCH faster and easier.
Had a bite and then took Jenn, the new #2 at PCHQ in Lima and her family up to Cerro de Oro burial
ground. Even after seeing the photos, everyone who visits there is awed at the bones
and artifacts. Still stymied and puzzled at the lack of Peruvian interest in
this amazing site.
An unusual morning. Someone came to the door with a message
from Senora Bell. She said that her husband, Jimmy Bell has died and she wanted
me to have all his Ham Radio equipment. I have no idea what I would do with all
the equipment - no
time, space, etc.
Amazing that she could get a note to me. But then, "The Gringo in San Luis" is a perfectly valid address.
I only met this delightful gentleman once and am sad that I didn't get back to see him. Our meeting is described in my Note 25:
Amazing that she could get a note to me. But then, "The Gringo in San Luis" is a perfectly valid address.
I only met this delightful gentleman once and am sad that I didn't get back to see him. Our meeting is described in my Note 25:
“I was also intrigued by a huge radio antenna array, which
is why I went back to check this out. My curiosity led me to an attractive home
behind high hedges and a massive gate. I rang the buzzer and a young man came
to the gate, took a quick look at me and rushed away. A painfully long time
later, an elderly man appeared. He did not seem happy to see me. Until I asked
about the antenna and blurted out my radio call “KD6ZCC”. “Zulu-Charlie-Charlie”
he exclaimed and beamed and threw the gate wide open.
My persistence was well rewarded by a visit with a new “Ham”
radio friend, James Bell. That’s right, a Peruvian named James Bell; descended
from the British family that brought Pima cotton to Peru, way back when. And who speaks
near perfect Queen’s English. On air, “Jimmy” is OAA5 (oscar,alpha,alpha,five).
This was originally his grandfather’s call sign – the FIFTH ever issued in Peru –
and he now holds it. His antenna array is the best I’ve ever seen. We had a
jolly good time, sipping gin & tonic (with REAL ICE!!) and sharing tales of
ham radio. He was impressed with the half-wave 80M antenna I built in Mexico
and I was impressed with his whole set-up – state-of-the art – which is housed
in its own room in a VERY nice home. It was seriously hard to believe I was in
Middle Nowhere, Peru.
His lovely wife, Isabella, very politely listened to us yammer on and on about
radio stuff and kept our glasses and tummies quite full with G&T and an amazingly
good guacamole – first time I’ve ever seen it in Peru, despite the abundance of
avocado. I feel like I’ve just been to another world. Jimmy now runs what is
left of the family holdings in Peru.
The family plantation was down near Chincha, about 30 miles south. He still
grows some cotton locally, though just for “tradition” and is a partner in one
of the big commercial fisheries which produces fish-meal. He doesn’t like the
“snobs” in Lima
and prefers a simple (but VERY comfortable) life in San Luis. I REALLY like
this guy.
Not much of a bike ride, but it was certainly a great day. I
am so appreciative of how the willingness to explore, to take a chance and
knock on a total stranger’s gate in a foreign land, will often be richly
rewarded. And that I’ve had the opportunities in my life to learn about and
experience so many of the hidden worlds like ham radio, scuba, solar power,
aviation, etc – which so often build an instant bond with others. This web of
connections gives me enormous pleasure every day. Lately, I’m particularly
grateful for all my family and friends and fellow Volunteers, who provide
technical advice and support for my service here with the Corps. So much of
what I do depends on channeling information from others into solutions for problems
here. And in being that conduit, I get to learn all manner of new stuff. Which
is nice.”
Another good expedition to the Cerro De Oro burial site this
week, with the new PC #2, Jenny White, her husband Kevin and son (6) Carter,
the youngest and most intrepid explorer yet. We found some extraordinary cloth
samples, some 1000 yr old nicely spliced rope and a field of jasmine fragrant
air-plants were the highlights. Carter was a delight – full of questions and
ideas about the Huari. I always enjoy seeing that spark of curiosity and
creativity in kids.
Pineapples are the new “in season” fruit here. I’d never had
a really ripe pineapple, fresh from the field before Peru. They are entirely different
and vastly superior to the stuff in a Dole can. The “fill-in” fruit is bananas.
They are ALWAYS in season. All shapes and sizes and colors. My favorites are
the small fingers and the mid-sized with orangey flesh. I had my first banana
bread today. Strange that it is so uncommon, with the bounty of bananas.
A good work day with my Miguel Angel, my PCRC (regional
coordinator). We went out to the Goat Farm, where the biodigester was filled
with gas, close to explosion. We hooked up the storage bladder and it filled in
10 minutes. 14 days since charging the tube with shit-soup. Musta been the pig
intestine the boys put in. MA was also looking to hold the next Camp ALMA
– a youth camp sponsored by PCVs – to teach leadership skills to young women.
The boys were HIGHLY enthusiastic and it looks like it’s a done deal. I love
those guys.
Then we zipped over to the VA spring, but Eulario was in
town. So, we headed up to Cerro de Oro to see the bones. The boneyard never
fails to impress. No one else can fathom why there seems so little interest in
investigating or preserving this area.
A couple of “cultural notes”: Most Peruvian men have little
facial hair. The few attempts at moustache or beard are pretty pathetic. Rather
than shave, they tend to pluck beard hairs with tweezers. This is considered
perfectly acceptable behavior in public, even when driving a combi. Speaking of
combis – the almost psychic ability of drivers and conductors to read the body
language of folks on the side of the road ahead and KNOW whether they want on,
is uncanny. The subtlest turn of shoulders or head is enough. And, (Bart
Simpson fans take note) they really do say “Caramba !!” here. Google politely
translates as : darn, good grief or heck. I find it more like “Ain’t that a
bitch (McMurphy)”.
PERU
HORNS By Kevin Bostwick
THE CULTURE OF HONKING is particular here. I am tempted to hang my laptop out the window to record.
The "here I come" safety short-honk
--- just to let someone moving into your space know that, indeed, you are not stopping...honk
The "I'm the taxi you are looking for" double-tap
--- walking down the street, looking content? Maybe you want a taxi?...honk-honk
The, I kid you not, "shave and a haircut" honk for extra-humorous cabbies
--- hard to resist... honk----honk-a-honk-honk---honk-honk
The "you overstepped" 3-beat honk
--- been cut off in the typical way? Lay on the horn a bit longer... hooonk
The "taxi is stopped to negotiate a fare and blocking a lane" 6-beat honk
--- it's not like the cabbie is going to care that someone is honking, but what the heck? hoooooonk
The "traffic is at a stop and I can't see what is holding things up" honk
--- just lay on the horn for however long it takes for you to feel better. hooooooooooooooooooonk
Add to this symphony the yells of the combi barkers yelling their destinations, the circa 1991 car alarms, the sirens of all urban center, and suddenly 4am can seem blissfully quiet.
Saturday, I’ll be teaching Bike Training to the new group of
PCVs in Lima –
just the ones getting bikes. Rushing back for the Kutuka music concert here in
San Luis. Then Sunday long bus ride up to Trujillo
to help the Princeton Engineers Without Borders build a new water system for a
small town. They are long on engineers and short on construction folks. I hope
to mostly be forming the smaller concrete structures.
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