Day of the Dead

These kids all provide cleaning services

A cleaner in action

Flowers everywhere - all wil go on grave sites

Conversing with the ancestors

The week started with a BANG – literally. I was riding a combi into town, when a tire blew – con mucho gusto. Women screamed like it was the end of the World – they also wail pretty good at funerals. We all had to catch other combis. Luckily, the guy was right near a tire shop, though he was still on the side of the road 3 hours later. After that, I started noticing that ALL the combi tires are in pretty pathetic shape. I only saw one with tires that would pass inspection in the States.

Funds for the Playground project arrived, so construction can begin in earnest. Included was the final list of 28 Donors – if your name was on it – Sincere Thanks from me, the Town and the Kids. I have a fair number of friends, who would by most standards be considered wealthy. Of that group, only one contributed – so much for “trickle down” economics…..

One of the first Playground tasks was to pay for the slide bodies, which are only sold in Lima. The purchase process is just that – a process. First you say you want to buy, then the company issues a formal “presupuesto”, which you take to their bank to pay. Next, the company confirms payment with their bank and ships the goods via bus to the nearest terminal, with a code for retrieval. This time, payment came with a lesson in Peruvian security.

One cannot avoid noticing the profusion and over-abundance of security here in Peru. Every bank is secured by at least two or three armed National Police outside and a few more security guards inside – all armed and wearing flak vests. Many stores are also guarded. As I entered the bank to pay for the Playground slides, I immediately acquired TWO armed escorts, with holsters open and hands on pistols. When I turned to look at them with a questioning face, they merely pointed to my bag. It seems the bag I was carrying, with a shovel handle sticking out of it looked “suspicious”. When I offered to let them search it, they just shook their heads. Apparently, personal privacy is much more sacred here than in the US – they can’t search until after the crime is committed. It made for a long, nervous wait. But, I certainly understand why bank robberies are unheard of here. Especially since private guns are illegal.

I’ve always been a Halloween Humbug. The cheesy, scary costumes, vandalism, candy begging and senseless mutilation of good, edible pumpkins have never made a bit of sense to me. So, I was delighted to be spared even a hint of that distained holiday this year. Instead, I enjoyed a  “Dia de los Muertos” Day of the Dead, on November 1^st. The entire day was a spirited, heart full and touching celebration, bringing thousands to pilgrimage to the big cemetery across the street. The flower stand ladies were selling hand-over-fist and all sold out their entire stocks by about 5 pm. In addition, street vendors and make-shift restaurants lined the streets in all directions. In the Plaza, the church offered an outstanding buffet lunch for a very reasonable contribution, while various bands and singers performed and beer and Pisco flowed.

Inside the cemetery, masses were held all day long, attended by FAR more folks than I’ve ever seen at the church. A legion of young boys, each carrying a water bucket and rag, sold their cleaning services to the steady stream of visitors, who arrived via the long entry walk. All of the memorials got a good spring cleaning – glass was cleaned, marble polished and candles and flowers replaced. The throngs arrived in cars, buses, moto-taxis and on foot, bearing gifts of flowers, candles, icons and food to place on the crypts of departed relatives. Family groups often sat in front of the monuments, taking turns speaking about (or to) the dead. The emotion was heartfelt. I was particularly touched by an older man, standing in front of his mother’s crypt, tears streaming down his face as he spoke audibly and passionately.

By sunset, the fresh flowers had sold-out and vendors were down to plastic flowers, but the constant ebb and flow of pilgrims continued. Even more food vendors filled the street, which has thankfully been returned to relatively normal after the installation of new water and sewer lines. A somber candle-lit procession, painfully slow, with really out-of-tune music, concluded the day on a beautiful, twinkling note.

The concept of devoting this much effort to the dead is very cultural. You only have to look to the nearby ancient burial grounds at Cerro de Oro to see millions of yards of fine cloth, pottery, fishing nets and floats and mummification that were buried with the dead to see the connection. While I am more inclined to honoring and giving flowers to the living, Day of the Dead is certainly a more meaningful celebration than Halloween. A delightful and devout blend of carnival and remembrance.

Playgrounds update : Slides are now in-hand – stored at the Muni warehouse. Steel tube (2” and 1” tube) purchased and delivered to Vidal, our welder. He’s excited to have all this work and to be doing a very visible project for the Muni. I am really fortunate to have great support from my Town and access to the new pick-up truck. I could not accomplish near as much, so quickly without it. Many PCVs do not enjoy such a pleasure. Amo a mi pueblo !!