Last PCV Vacation

By happy coincidence, the bus that carried Peru 18 from our COS conference to Lima just happened to be going to the airport, after dropping the rest of my group in Miraflores - just where I wanted to go. I stopped questioning these coincidences? a long time ago – they happen so often that I just smile and say Thank You. In fact, the bus went within a block of the hotel I was going to – even better.

From there, I taxied up to the terminal to collect a very special lady-friend (at my age, girlfriend seems inappropriate) at the International Arrivals building. Chris and I met online, via our mutual friend Wilp. I was immediately struck by her beautiful and heart-full writing and her beaming smile. We struck up a lovely friendship, which later blossomed to romance. After a very brief visit in Florida, this was to be our first time together – 24/7 for 9 days.

Our stroll around the La Colonia neighborhood was a delightful discovery of street fair, open air markets and the many tiny gardens that exist in the narrow band between street and sidewalk. Chris is also a gardener, so was taken by the flowery treats, as well as the bakery goods. We were also treated to a top spinning demonstration by the boys in a nearby park. I was moved by her insatiable curiosity and willingness to engage the locals.

After what seemed like hours of paperwork, I secured a car and headed off into the circus that is Lima Traffic. South of the city, we stopped at “El Abeulo”, a noted little stand on the side of the Pan American Hwy for some world-class fig ice cream and even more heavenly pie. We passed countless chicken farms and trash dumps and sand deserts, before arriving in Canete. The open-air market of Canete is vast and filled with all manner of clothing, hardware, tailor and shoe shops, and, of course, FOOD.

The next day, we explored my little world of San Luis, meeting and greeting and tasting the yogurt and cheese finery at the famous Goat Farm. A visit to Unanue Castle revealed new directional signs, as well as a large increase in admission. The co-op is making an effort to do more maintenance on the decaying structure and grounds, which is welcome. Chris was introduced to all the local cuisine and to a very moving Pisco Sour.

My passing technique on the highly trafficked , two-lane Pan Am, left her a little white-knuckled, but intact, as we stopped at a local winery that specializes in 6 liter bottles and one gallon jugs. We found lodging at El Mirador, a hacienda style hotel on the hill above Paracas, where a German tour group arrived in a self-contained travel vehicle – Mercedes, of course.

Chris got her first taste of the desert at the Paracas National Reserve, where we went off-road, visited the little fishing village and built our first cairn – a small rock stack. The only disappointment was that the anticipated flamingos were down a trail marked “off-limits”, so had to be seen as small pink dots on the water’s edge.

The boat trip to the Ballestras Islands was as pleasant and smooth as could be imagined on a perfect day. The Humbolt penguins, cormorants, terns, gulls and other birds were in full nesting season and covered the sky and rocks. The sea-lions showed off, as the skipper piloted the boat through narrow passages and arches in the rock.

 

On the trip, we met Marta, a Mexican psychologist, who became our travel companion on the side trip to Huacachina, an oasis lake in the middle of the desert dunes near Ica. We also ran into the same German group we met at the hotel. After snagging some of the luscious Ica ice cream at my favorite place on the Ica Plaza, we dropped Marta at the bus to Nazca and returned to the gracious hacienda.

Fishing boats at the little village of Lagunas in Paracas Reserve

Then, it was up into the alpine mountains of Huancavalica. First stop was Tamo Colorado – ruins of a once great Wari/Inca celebration complex. The ruins are quite well preserved, despite the fact that, until 2008, the main highway went right through the middle of the complex and kids played soccer on the huge ancient plaza. On the way, I stopped to ask directions of a young man, who turned out to be the Tambo caretaker, so we gave him a ride to work. (another coincidence?) The museum – and our guide Marcos - was excellent and informative. Most notable was the indoor plumbing system, which delivered water into nice bathrooms in the palace area. The walls were well plastered and painted in a red (thus the Colorado name) and yellow motif, still quite visible. Oh, how we wished for the Way-Back machine to glimpse what the complex was like in its day…..

Chris in the Inacn "shower"

  

Then, came the fast and winding climb to 9000 ft and the alpine village of Huaytara. We sampled more local yogurt and studied the impeccable stone work of the Incan ruins – once a hot mineral bath and since repurposed as the foundation of the church. While Chris was more taken with the plethora of religious icons than the stone work (finer than Machu Pichu), we both were satiated and a bit winded by the altitude. We also happened upon 2 Peace Corps folks in the Plaza. That night, we feasted on a buffet of fresh bread, avocado, cream cheese, yogurt and soft cheese, which sadly gave my dear travel companion a case of the Incan Revenge.

Chris remained a brave trooper as we gingerly made our way down the mountain and back to a beautiful spot at the base of Cerro De Oro in Canete, where we celebrated her birthday. We saw a remarkable Renewable Energy compound outside of San Clemente, which I hope to work with in my job next year. After a delightful day exploring the standard tourist sites in downtown Lima ( including a very special look inside the City Hall) and a fruitful trip to the sprawling artisan markets, I said Good-Bye at the airport. It was a wonderful, special and memorable trip, with a lovely and loving woman. I smile and feel affection whenever I think of her.