How the Peace Corps Saved My Life

The beautiful (and vast) campus of Cleveland Clinic in Weston, FL - where I had heart bypass suregry

One Last "Hearty" Adventure with the Corps

It seems like it was a long, long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away – when really it was just 6 weeks ago in Surco ,Peru – just 3500 miles to the south.  I had just been hiking with my Peruvian pal Dasio at about 11,500 ft above Ayas, Peru – looking for Matt Nahrstadt’s reforestation project – which we never found. It was a long and hard hike, very much like one I’d done 3 years earlier at that very site with my WATSAN 18 training group. But, then we hiked all the way back down to the village, caught a ride in the back of a pickup and dashed to catch the combi bus, down at about 9000 ft.

That was when “it” happened. I felt a sudden tightness across my upper chest and shoulders and got VERY out of breath. “It” lasted only about 30 seconds and may have saved my life. I continued on home to Lima, thinking little of the incident. I simply figured I had hit a wall of exhaustion at altitude and was out of shape from living the easy office life in Lima for a year.

I had felt very good about my health in Lima. I’d been walking home (3km) from the office every day and had stopped my BP meds with just that 50-60 minute walk each day. The walk was never tiring, especially when summer weather arrived and the young ladies graced the streets with their very short , tight shorts and leggings.

Shortly after that, I had my COS chat with our dear PC Medical Officer, Jorge Bazan about my health issues during 3 years of Peace Corps service in Peru. I just happened to mention “it” to him and suggested that maybe my lungs were not functioning as well as they might be and he got me a lung x-ray, which showed nothing abnormal. He still felt that “it” still needed investigation and sent me to a cardiologist, which is when things started to take a southern turn . When the doctor saw the EKG, he asked for it to be redone. He then turned to me and said “You have a very serious problem, my friend.”, which I took for typical Peruvian melodrama at the time, feeling as good as I did.

But, further sonograms, stress tests and dye scans confirmed that I had very little arterial blood flow to my heart. They guessed the blockages were almost complete. That was about a week before I was scheduled to return to the US as an RPCV. I had my flight and was all packed and ready to go.

Cleveland Clinic entrance - Valet parking, no less

Last Mango in Lima

Having moved 32 times in my 63 years, I've gotten good at saying Good-Bye. Behind every Good-Bye is a new Hello, just waiting to happen. And thanks to email and Facebook and Skype, It is rarely a true Good-Bye, just Until We Meet Again. Good-Bye does not mean loss to me, but celebration of the experience that will always be a part of me.

Still, with just a few days before I end my Peace Corps service in Peru, my farewell visits in Buenos Aires and San Luis were tearful and heartfelt. The unique way that PCVs are embedded and integrated into their communities, means not only that we can be more effective, but that we experience some loss on departure.

Peace Corps service has been a great and full adventure – one of my best. The places visited, projects completed, friendships made – I hold them all dear.

In these final days in Peru, memories of people and places have come welling up, waves of gratitude and appreciation flood my heart. I give especially heartfelt THANKS to:
My host family during training, who nurtured and fed me in my Peruvian birthplace of Buenos Aires. Jaime Alderete, Shirley Alderete, Deri and Cristanto
My hard working community partners in San Luis. Angel Harrison Garcia Manzo, Gloria Yaya, Esther Reynaldo Reyes
The extraordinary Peace Corps medical staff for keeping me healthy and safe. Jorge , Suni Su and Carmen
The entire PC Staff for their kind support (and for tolerating a non-bureaucratic rogue in their midst).
The Tooth Fairies and Dr Michael Healey for getting my mouth up to PC specs.
All my generous friends who contributed to the creation of Childrens’ Playgrounds in San Luis.
The senders of tool and hardware laden Care Packages. Joy B. Massa,Jan Plimpton, Robin Murphy , Phyllis Scott McAllister
and especially to my Dea Sistas - Robin Parker and Darcy Plimpton-Sims -I wouldn't be here without your kindness.
My Facebook Friends, for sharing great ideas and cheering my service.

All the thanks and appreciation that I've received during my time in Peru, really belongs to all of you, as well.
WE did this. I was merely the “tip of the olive branch”. That was my honor and privilege.

The people and places of Peru, WATSAN, ECPA and the Peace Corps will always be a part of my being. I do not leave them behind, but celebrate my time here, and pass the torch to the next generation of PC Peru.

So long, Peru. And thanks for all the ceviche……..

Click here - Peace Corps Highlights

Solar Waterfall for the PC Training Center

We started with an old fish pond

The solar powered waterfall at the Peace Corps Lima office has been so widely enjoyed and appreciated, that a second solar cascade at the Training Center in Chaclacayo (an hour east of Lima) seemed appropriate. The little area off in a corner provided the venue and our good friends at Q-Energy donated most of the equipment. Peace Corps bought the panel and hardware. Juan and Marco, the maintenance crew from the office, helped me with the construction. Our team finished the project quickly, with excellent result.

Juan and Marco and I made a great team

We started with an ornate, but defunct fish pond in a corner of the training center grounds. All it needed was a little concrete repair and a reservoir for the water, which Marco deftly completed. Juan did the plumbing from the reservoir to the waterfall and I handled the electrical work, connecting the solar panel, charge controller and battery to the pump – a 500GPH Rule bilge pump. 90 minutes later, we tested the system and cleaned up.

We hope that future generations of Peace Corps Trainees will learn from and enjoy the new waterfalls. I know I enjoyed one last construction project before departure.

Click here to see more photos

Click here to see video

San Luis Playground Redux

Angel and Goyo celebrate a final adventure together after repairs are complete

One night, about three weeks ago, person or persons unknown scaled a 12 ft wall for the purpose of vandalizing one of the children’s’ playgrounds that I helped construct during my Peace Corps service in mi pueblo of San Luis de Canete. Vandalism, the destruction or defacing of something for the sheer joy? of it, has always baffled me and I won’t dwell on it here. But, my stalwart community partner, Angel, and I were not going to allow the bastards a victory.

Samuel retouches one of his brilliant wall murals

I packed up my tools and headed to the scene of the crime to assist. Angel had marshalled a welder, some kids and the multi-talented graffiti artist Samuel , to converge on the playground last Saturday and set things right. The kids picked up all the trash and raked the soft sand base. I put the swings back together, with the aid of my trusty battery drill. Samuel touched-up his gorgeous murals and used the left-over paint to spiff the equipment. A new seat was cut and installed on the see-saw and our “Wild Man” welder made fast work of repairing and reinforcing the see-saw. We celebrated with Inca-Kola, of course as well as hugs and last Good-Bye to my dear friend Angel.

The trip also gave me a chance for a final Farewell to all my dear friends in San Luis. It was my honor and privilege to work with these wonderful, caring, generous folks over the last 3+ years. Angel, Avelino and his family, Gloria, Esther, Victor, Cristina, Paulina, Fernando…. I will never forget them. They will always have a special place in my heart, as will San Luis, Mi Pueblo, Mi Corazon.

Our welder looked a bit on the wild side, but he did a great job

 The bus ride back to Lima was a sweet trip down Memory Lane. I’ve taken that route close to a hundred times and know it well. But, this time was particularly poignant, since it will be my last as a Peace Corps volunteer. Every landmark seemed to stand out and even the stark desert seemed more beautiful, when seen through my misty eyes.

Click here to see more photos

Click here to watch video of the playground construction

The Grounds Crew enjoyed a well deserved swing

Lake Titicaca Vacation

View of (a small portion of) Lake Titicaca

 My last vacation as a Peace Corps Volunteer in Peru was to Lake Titicaca (or Titiqaqa). At 12,500 ft, there are a few lakes at higher altitudes, but none with the gorgeous grandeur of this Mother Lake. She supports all manner of ducks, grebes, gulls, snails, frogs and fish, including the “Salmon Trout” – a savory, pink fleshed species. She is twice the size of the great Salt Lake, dotted with islands and fringed in marshland, which provides the reeds, so critical to the Uros culture as well as lush habitat for her fauna. Adding to the natural beauty was the company of my dear friend Robin, who made the trip ever-so-much more pleasurable.

A colorful market in Puno

We flew in from Lima to the small airport at Juliaca. I’m not sure why anyone would endure the 30 hour bus ride, as the 1.5 hour flight is only $20 more. Flying in, the landscape seemed barren and bleak, but during the 1 hour ride to Puno (a city of 2+ million, on the Lake) the vistas improved dramatically. Puno is quite attractive, though crowded and noisy. We elected to stay well outside the city, in the little village of Chuquito, at the Taypikala Lago Hotel. While pricey ($75) by Peruvian standards, the place was as nice as any US resort. Well-appointed rooms, expansive views of the Lake, fireplaces, lounges, a crystal garden, a maze and access to a dock in the reeds made it quite enjoyable. They even had a tank of oxygen in the lobby, to assist those in need. When the dock was built 11 years ago, it was on the Lake, but declining rainfall in the Andes has dropped the Lake level by some 20 ft, leaving the dock well into the reeds, with a channel cut to the open water.

Typical residential floating island of Uros

The biggest tourist draw in the Puno area are the Uros floating islands and their culture. The Uros people sought refuge from the Inca and later the Spaniards, by leaving the mainland to live on islands made of reeds that float freely in the Lake, though these days they are anchored for practical reasons. The island base is chucks of reed root, stitched together, upon which are laid layers of dried reed. These are constantly replenished as the reeds eventually waterlog. The homes are also built of reed, woven into mats, which form the walls and roof of the small, self-supporting

Goyo discusses solar with an island leader

structures. They are placed on wooden frames, so that they may be lifted to add extra insulation inside from the cold and damp of the water. Each island has one or more ponds, where fish are trapped and held for food. The original lake fish was a catfish, but these have largely been replaced by trout.

Of special interest to me, the only power (for obvious reasons) on the islands is solar. I immediately went to work inspecting the systems, most of which were inoperable. Happily, the main cause of failure was bad battery. The islanders have been buying lead-acid truck batteries, but no

L-R - modern house, cook stove, drying reeds and old house

one told them to add water, so they only last about 6 months. We refilled one and got it charging, but I told them to get maintenance free gel batteries, which will last about 10 years. They were also excited to learn about the small “pico” or micro solar units, which could be installed in each house and provide light and cell phone charging. This last bit is important, since at present, they have to take cell phone batteries into town (1/2 hour) to charge. Solar power has greatly reduced the fire hazard of candles and kerosene lamps in houses made of straw.

I was also intrigued by the cook stoves, which vaguely resembled the improved cook stoves built

Robin dips into the Sacred Water of Mother Lake

by many PC volunteers. They solve the problem of fire on a flammable floor/”ground” by making the fire atop reed root, which will smolder, but not ignite. The Uros also build all sorts of boats from the reeds. A recent innovation in design uses empty plastic bottles inside the reed structure for added flotation. Robin was more interested in getting her feet into the Sacred (and chilly) Waters of the Mother Lake.

The 260 ft SS Ollanta was trucked in pieces to the Lake

The Uros live quite well - entirely from fishing and tourism. Their income is well above the Peruvian average. 6 soles ($2+) from each tourist goes directly to the family visited in addition to money from selling trinkets, wedding demonstrations and rides in a reed boat. This makes for a very “touristy” environment. Being able to chat with them made it tolerable for me. An enormous fleet of tourist boats ferries passengers to and from the Puno dock, where Robin and I found some delicious local foods, including fried cheese, which I’d not seen elsewhere in Peru. I’m not sure why the dish is not more common, as it was really crisp and tasty. We viewed some of the large vessels which ply the Lake, including the 260 ft SS Ollanta. . We also found excellent bargains on Alpaca clothing in town and took a ride on the only bike-taxis I've

Robin in a bike - taxi

Ladies' "bowler" hats

seen in Peru, causing our driver some serious stress on an uphill route. We also enjoyed the unique ladies' hat fashion of the area, which Robin discovered was adopted from the bowler hats worn by the British rail workers in the 1800's.

Inside the Temple of Fertility - you get the idea......

                                                                       Back in Chuquito, we walked (with some huffing and puffing from the altitude) to the Temple of Fertility. No one is sure what rites were performed there, but it is certainly unique, with a hundred or so phalluses protruding from the ground, surrounded by huge, perfectly crafted stoneworks.  Even the adjacent church sported the symbols, pointing the way to the front doors. We also found a tiny little local restaurant, where we were served the pink-fleshed trout in a private room with 2^nd floor vistas and some lovely music. Unseasonable lightening, thunder and hail storms over the Lake made for entertaining evenings and left a coating of snow on nearby hills.           Click here for more photos

Solar PV at 12,000 ft in Ancash, Peru

Our commute to work, beneath the 22,200ft peak of Huascaran

My next tech exchange was with Pat Starr, an environment volunteer in Ancash. Pat developed a good working relationship with the huge Huascaran National Park – perhaps the most scenic and largest in Peru. The highest mountain in Peru is located in the park (also named Huascarán, reaching 22,205 feet high). The park is home to one of the most extraordinary high-mountain eco-systems on Earth: 663 glaciers, 269 lakes and 41 rivers, as well as hundreds of mountain peaks, 26 of which top 6,000 meters (19680 feet) . This park is home to many species of animals and plants, Cougars, Jaguars, Vicunas, the adorable spectacled bear, the Peruvian Tapir, and many 100’s of species of birds. Snow covers the magnificent sharp peaks all year. See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huascar%C3%A1n_National_Park

Pat with a PV solar panel atop the Visitor Center by a glacial lake

It was to this extraordinary setting that I travelled (9 hours) by bus from Lima to Huaraz, to help Pat install solar panel systems at 2 of the remote park facilities. We spent our first day just locating all the needed supplies. What would have required about 15 minutes at a Home Depot, took us all day of searching the small hardware stores (ferreterias) of Huaraz. Most sold wire no thicker than 14 ga – what we call zip cord (lamp cord) in the states – since normal 220V wiring here carries less amps and can be thinner than in the States. We needed #8 for the solar panels and #4 for the batteries, but could only find #10 and bought some jumper cables at an auto store for the battery connectors. Unable to locate wire nuts ANYWHERE, we used small cable clamps for connectors. Most Peruvians just twist and wrap with scotch tape and pray. The last elusive bit were the 12VDC compact fluorescent light bulbs, which use ¼ the power and give twice the light of an incandescent.

I had to use a headlamp and glasses to see the wires

With materials in hand, we first stopped at an entrance station to repurpose some unneeded panels and equipment. Working with used equipment is always harder, since it must be tested before use.

Pat did a great job of organizing the field trip, with the Park Service providing a study 4x pickup and driver. Our first driver Edson, shared his memories of growing up during the time of the Shining Path terrorists. He was witness to executions and knows first-hand the suspicions and distrust that terror brings. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shining_Path

All smiles after the job is done

Our first installation was at the very popular tourist site of Llanganuco lagoon. Mostly Peruvian tourists can rent rowboats and cross the lagoon to climb on the glacier at the far end. Despite the 1000’s of tourists who visit the site each year, the approach road is unpaved and very rough. We installed 3 x 125W panels on the roof and a 150aH battery, with 500W inverter inside. The whole building was wired for 220V, so we tied the inverter directly into the main breaker box, giving them (limited) use of normal power throughout the station. They had a beautiful teaching center which had not been used because it was so dark, which will now be OPEN. Also, the office will be able to use the computer, radios and cell phones, without carrying them back to the base station for recharge. We were slowed down by the many questions from passing tourists, but I’m always happy to explain the magic of solar power. As I was making the panel connections up on the roof, I glance up and saw a cobalt blue glacial lagoon in front of me, the mighty white peak of Huascaran to my right, and thought “I love my job”. 

Goyo with Peruvian Lilies (Alstromieria)

On the way home, we passed fields of Peruvian lilies and enjoyed a drink called chicha jora, which is a white corn based, slightly fermented brew, with a flavor akin to slightly hard cider. The lilies are collected and put on a special FedEx jet out of the Huaraz airport every night.

During my time in Huaraz, I stayed at a lovely B&B called Soledad. The Romero family treats guests like family, with fires and good conversation each night. The grandmother makes her own preserves for the breakfast table, including a marvelous Orange/papaya jam – a new flavor combination for me. The family asked me to join them for a delicious lamb dinner one night – some of the best food I’ve had in Peru or anywhere else. Her sister-in-law had hosted one of the earliest Peru Peace Corps volunteers in the Cusco area back in 1964.

An ancient dwelling is still in use today - some have electricity

The second installation was at the very remote guard station at Llaca quebrada, a canyon carved by a now retreating glacier. 30 years ago, the station was near the base of the glacier, which has since retreated miles up the canyon. This system has 2 panels, which now power lights in each of the dormitories, kitchen and meeting room, plus a small 150W inverter to charge the park radios, cell phones, etc. Before, the guards were often out of communication, when cells and radios went dead and had to be carried back to town for recharge. They also quickly figured out that they can bring a TV and DVD player out to relieve the isolation of 20 day shifts.

A plaque in honor of 2 Peace
Corps volunteers, who died
while working in the Park

Ironically, as I was waiting for the bus back to Lima, I visited yet another hardware store and found the elusive wire nuts. I also bagged some of the special local bread and cheese to share with the staff in Lima. The ride home was long, but scenic and very comfortable. Peruvian busses have 1^st “cama” class seats like international air seats – wide soft leather with foot rests and video consoles with headsets.

The trip was almost like a vacation for me – the brilliant high altitude sun was a welcome respite from the overcast Lima winter. I got to do construction, which I love, spent quality time with a wonderful young volunteer, saw the Huascaran Park up close and personal and made some park guards very happy. Like I say – “I LOVE my job.”

More photos at:

https://plus.google.com/photos/114324927553623472875/albums/6049990767113575617

Phase 3 of 3rd Year Service

Working on the biodigester exit ports

The last cycle of my 3^rd year as a Peace Corps  volunteer has begun. The first cycle was training and writing field guides for renewable energy technologies and climate change education. The second was assisting with applications for ECPA grants to implement the technologies and education in the rural volunteer sites. And now comes the really fun part for me : providing on-site expertise and assistance to the many renewable energy projects all over Peru.

The sparse Piura desert

My work travels took me to the delightful alpine village of Canchaque, in the state of Piura, far to the north of Peru, 5 degrees below the equator. Due to an accident enroute to the airport, I was forced to endure a 17 hour bus ride, made tolerable by the 1^st class seat. Piura City is the oldest citiy in Peru, founded by Pizzaro in 1532, just before he and his 150 soldiers captured the entire Inca civilization. It is by no means the prettiest place on the planet, being in the middle of a desert, with a vestigial at its center, now choked with garbage and sewage. The pre-dawn bus to Canchaque passed more coastal desert plain, before climbing into the Andes. The northern desert is quite a bit different from the southern desert, with which I am intimately acquainted. In the south, the desert is totally barren, while the north has widely scattered scrub and hardy trees – I’m guessing due to a subterranean water source.

One of many bamboo forests in the Piura mountains

As we zig-zagged into the mountains, the scene changed quickly. River valleys and bamboo and crops appeared and green, jungle-like mountains covered the horizon. Canchaque itself is a lovely little town of 2,500, nestled among the peaks, with scenic vistas in all directions. Glenn Harrington, a water/sanitation PCV, greeted me at the bus stop. He was one of my “shadows” during his training and attended one of the renewable energy workshops at Yachaywasi. We headed directly to the slaughterhouse, perused and took measure of the biodigester site and then went back to a nearby hardware store to buy all the job fixins.

Squeezing air into the biodigester tube to inflate it

Glenn and the Muni workers had done a great job of preparing the ditch for the digester tube and a nice enclosure for the gas storage bag. Both had to be lined with concrete, since the “soil” was more like solid rock. Their construction was all first rate and we got the gas bladder and biodigester inflated, set in place and plumbed the gas line in record time, breaking only for a 4 sole ($1.42) lunch overlooking the town plaza. Our only misstep was filling the gas bladder with exhaust from a motorcycle – a small bit of hot carbon, expelled from the exhaust pipe burned a little hole in the plastic, which was easily patched. It was another fantasy work site – sunny and located next to a small stream and waterfall, which made the job all the more pleasant.We retired to showers and a tasty dinner with Glenn’s host family, perched on a hillside high above the town.

Julio's wife roasted, ground and brewed coffee from their trees

Having completed the project in a single day, we visited the estate of one of his community partners, Julio, who also attended one of my renewable energy workshops. Julio grows coffee, bananas and oranges on a hillside with a serpentine irrigation canal that crisscrosses the entire property. He also has a house and guest cottage that look like something from the Swiss Alps. In an area with no natural fish, he raises Tilapia in ponds and sells to the local market. The fish poop enriched pond drainage feeds his crops, along with compost and worm castings, which he also produces. While we were there, his wife roasted some of their coffee beans, ground them and served us what is probably the freshest cup of coffee I’ll ever enjoy. She also make sand sells her own banana marmalade, which I’d never even heard of, and which was absolutely scrumptious. Julio also steeps the local cane alcohol in ground coffee to produce a coffee liquor – also yummy, if a bit strong. It was my great pleasure to visit this amazing and innovative man.

The "Drunk Tree" stands solitary and strong

The 3 hour bus ride back to Piura in full daylight was more revealing. I was particularly taken by a large Seuss-like tree, known locally as the “drunk tree”. And by the huge amounts of trash on the sides of the highway. The 1 and ½ flight back to Lima was certainly more pleasant than the 17 hr bus. Surprisingly, it only cost about $8 more than the bus ($53 vs $61).











More photos at : : https://plus.google.com/photos/114324927553623472875/albums/6049649109828392609

Horsing Around in Lima

The power and grace of the jumping horse must be seen up close

Many, if not most, adventures happen unexpectedly. This one started innocently enough - I simply needed some animal manure to start the biodigester demonstration at the Peace Corps office in Lima. We won't harvest the gas, but we will use the biol (liquid fertilizer) that it will produce. Someone mentioned that our Safety & Security Officer, Enrique Navaro, might be able to help. Sure enough, Enrique said he could get all the horse manure we wanted right in Lima. So, we grabbed some garbage bags, jumped into a PC vehicle and headed to the La Molina district, where we entered the National Equestrian Academy, run by the Peruvian Army.

Something about a uniform.....

What we really entered was another world, one filled with beautiful animals and dashing cavalry officers, replete with riding pants and tall, shiny leather boots and riding crops. The grounds are manicured and has the air of an upscale country club, with polo grounds. It turns out that Enrique was a cadet there and later a Colonel and instructor. He was in many of the photos that graced the walls of the officers' club.

As soon as we arrived, he was greeted with gusto by all of the staff. After extensive pleasantries, the current Commanding Officer ordered a Lieutenant to get us some "very fresh manure - straight from the horse's ass". The Lieutenant then passed the order to a subordinate, who scurried off to either collect the goods or pass the order on to somebody with less rank than his. Meanwhile, we joined the brass in the festooned spectator gallery to watch the equestrian jumping practice. I've never been a horse person, but the scene was captivating. Watching these huge beasts glide over obstacles, especially at close range, is a sight to behold. The enjoyment was augmented by an odd combination of cocktails and ice cream. The sunny Lima afternoon and the snug fit of the female officers' riding britches rounded out the pleasantries.

The other sweetness of the adventure was learning about the remarkable history of the man I had only known as the giver of lectures to PCVs about not going home drunk with strangers and watching your luggage on overnight bus trips. In addition to his horse cavalry service, Enrique also served as a tank commander (the "new" cavalry, he says) and fought the Shining Path terrorists in the mountains and jungles of Peru.

Oh, yes, we got the requisite quantity of manure, which Justo and I loaded into the biodigester the next day.

Train to Huancayo

The train passes over one of 69 bridges along the route to Huancayo

I love trains. The first time I rode was as a young lad with my grandparents, traveling to Philadelphia. This was back at the end of the Golden Age of American rail. Passenger cars, especially the First Class, were elegant and everyone dressed for the occasion. The dining car had linen tablecloths, china and silverware. After that, I took the pre-Amtrak line from Westerly to Providence, RI, when I was an NSF Scholar in the summer of 1968 and whenever I went into NYC from Princeton. For a couple of years, the family rode the rail to Silar City, NC to visit Roy & Mimi for Thanksgivings. The hypnotic clack of the rails put the boys to sleep in no time. The spectacular CA Coastal route was another fine train experience.

There is a very special train that runs from Lima to Huancayo, high in the Peruvian Andes. Special because it is the 2nd highest in the world at 15,830 ft, and because it only makes 8 trips per year. And the spectacular views cannot be had from car, bus or plane. I first laid eyes on the RR track, just outside of the retreat center where my Peace Corps training group spent our first night in Peru. During pre-service training, my WATSAN group visited the small alpine town of Aya, where we worked on a water system and I saw the train making its first switchbacks on the other side of the river.  I’ve wanted to ride that train for the last 2 years, but could never seem to find the time or make reservations the required 3-4 months in advance. Until now.

Over the Easter weekend I finally got my wish and boarded the train at 7am in downtown Lima, right behind the Government Palace. The coach was as elegant as my first train memories. And I found myself in the delightful company of the Berger family and their lovely au pair, Alexis. Equally lovely were the smartly uniformed attendants, who served not only food and beverage, but all manner of timely information along the way.

The Berger Family and Alexis

We rode out the Rimac River valley, past the slums of Ate, through Chaclacayo and Chosica. I waved to my dear Jaime as we passed his house in Buenos Aires, where I lived during PC training. All along the route, people came out to wave at the rare passenger train, taking as many photos of us as we took of them. I saw Aya from the other side of the river now, as the train made the first of 6 switchbacks along the route. Since a train cannot make tight turns or climb steep grades, as a car, the switchback allows the train to climb the side of a steep mountain quite nicely.

Switchback - the train pulls past the lower track and then
switches to the upper track, changing direction

After that, civilization gave way to magnificent mountain vistas. I made my way back to the bar car for the first of several Pisco Sours and to the open air car. Here, passengers have unfettered views in all directions, leaning on polished brass rails, something the US DOT would never allow. Even better, when making switchbacks, the open car often became the front of the train, which was pretty exciting. 

Entering a tunnel, as seen from the open-air car

Equally stunning were the 69 bridges and 58 tunnels we traversed. The whoosh of air and sudden infusion of diesel smoke often caught me off-guard, as I gazed out on the Peruvian Sierra. I also enjoyed an “Up close and personal” look at the enormous mining operations along the way. Trainloads of zinc and lead bars lined the side-tracks and we passed directly through the center of several refineries.

As we approached the 15,830 ft summit, the air grew noticeably thinner and colder. Snow was visible on the nearby mountain tops and we passed through a brief hail shower. Llamas and alpacas grazed in the alpine meadows, giving us only passing glances. As darkness fell on the Andes, we glided the last leg into Huancayo, still at almost 11,000 ft.

Grandfather carves and colors gourds with just
a few tools and tricks

The Hotel Turistico proved to be a comfortable and elegant throwback to the Colonial era, with modern rooms, high ceilings, billiards room, a tea garden and rooftop solar hot water heaters – much to my delight. The buffet breakfast was outstanding, especially in front of a large roaring fire. Though, I was surprised to find Tabasco sauce instead of the usual Aji.

The next two days, I toured the area, again in the company of Alexis and the Berger family. We visited some of the local artisans – gourd carvers, jewelry makers and weavers. The livestock market in Chupaca was a special treat as it happens only 4 times a year. Every kind and size of animal was for sale and buyers could take them home alive or slaughtered at the open air on-site slaughterhouse – likely not something the USDA would approve. We huffed and puffed our way up to the Wari grain storage ruins and visited the “Spring of Life” in Huari, from whence the Wari believed all human life had sprung. Of course, when the Catholic church arrived, they had other ideas and quickly closed the spring. We enjoyed huge trout and a great Pachamanca for lunches. Pachamnca is a traditional Peruvian meal of meat, corn, fava beans and potatoes and sweet potatoes, all cooked in a pit over hot stones in the ground.

The open air slaughter area at the livestock market

The train home to Lima was actually a bit tedious, as we had already seen the route on the way up. But, between some Pisco Sours and the very comfy reclining seats, the time was passed well.

 Here are some notes, if you are planning to take the ride:

1) Make reservations well in advance - at least 3 months.

2) Take the train just one way (Lima > Huancayo). On the way up, the lovely hostesses give a wonderful travelogue, but not on the way back, since you've already seen it. You'll pay more than 1/2 of the round trip cost, but the 14 hr return over ground you've already seen can be tedious.

3) Most important : Go 1st Class (Turistico). Yes, it's double the price ($84 vs $43), but WELL worth it. In Turistico, you get nice comfy seats than recline way back, meal and beverage service, snacks, access to the bar car and open air car (my favorite place), air conditioning and heat. In Classico (2nd Class), you get hard seats that don't recline, no meals, no access, no A/C and no heat. The windows are capable of opening, but good luck getting Peruvians to allow that.

4) As you ride the switchbacks, be sure and get to the open air car, which periodically becomes the front of the train.

5) The Lima station is just behind the Government Palace, off of the Plaza Mayor.

6) Show up at least 30 minutes before departure (7 AM). This train will leave at exactly 7 am, with or without you. 

Photos of my trip :  https://plus.google.com/photos/114324927553623472875/albums/6004698626709324833

For more information on the train:   http://www.ferrocarrilcentral.com.pe/en_index_.php

3 Months in 3 Pages

Thanks to all of you who have bugged me into writing. Especially the non-Facebook gang. I have been posting now and then on the Book, but how would you know? So, please bear with me, this will be a long read.

As I’ve noted before, 3^rd year service is a very different animal. Somehow, it just doesn’t seem like the office routine is as newsworthy as my very direct interactions in San Luis. Most of what I do is organizing the conferences and resources, training new volunteers and consulting with the volunteers in the field who have tech questions about renewable energy, water systems and sanitation projects or issues. I average about 15 consultations a month on a 24/7 basis – though PCVs have learned NOT to call after 9pm. I enjoy the Heck out of this, but this work doesn’t lend itself to headlines or photos. Then, throw in some purely administrative duties and my days are full.

Yachaywasi staff demonstrates biodigester

Two completed projects which did garner some press were the recent ECPA / renewable energy conference at the Yachawasi center in Ica, which I organized and helped teach. We had 24 PCVs and community partners, who got to experience first hand in most every RE imaginable: biodigesters, improved cook stove, solar cooker, water heater, wind turbines and solar panels. They also saw drip irrigation, fish aquaculture, composting toilet and low tech water pumps in 3 flavors.

The facility was not only full of working tech, the rooms were beyond comfortable – providing the first hot showers many PCVs had enjoyed in a while. The food was extraordinary, with all herbs and many vegetables coming directly from the gardens. Our meeting room was complete with projector, sound system and satellite internet connection. And the staff was attentive and knowledgeable. The only glitch was that it was overcast , drizzly and calm on the day we wanted to demonstrate the solar cookers and wind turbines. 

It was a joy to see the lights going on and folks from all over the country going home with some new ideas in their heads. We left the conference on the center's nice bus, stopping at the Tambo Colorado ruins and museum, including some 1000 year old indoor plumbing. We also stopped at the little town of Huancano, self-anointed home of the best alfajore cookies in the country.,where we stocked up on 3 layer alfajores – best I've ever had.

Photos : https://plus.google.com/photos/114324927553623472875/albums/5988386925827987185

I've also started work with the Ministry of Energy and Mines (MINEM). Over the last 5 years, they installed 130 “Solar Schools” around the country. These units are comprised of 6 solar panels and a small wind turbine, which provide power to the school for lights, outlets, 5 computers, an internet dish and a UV water purifier. MINEM has asked us to help inspect, evaluate and monitor the systems – to see how they are holding up over time.

I visited the first system near Chincha with my friend Joe Gubbels of the Canadian charity “Rainbow of Hope”. We ventured an hour and a half off the main road, crossed mudslides and rockslides, to get to the village of Huachinga. The system itself was in great shape – very sturdy construction. However, the computers had been stolen, the UV unit was “broken” and most of the power was being sent to the nearby health post to power refrigerators for storing medicines. The internet signal was rigged to an antenna , to provide WiFi to the 3 computers in the village. The folks liked the solar idea so much that they got two solar streetlights to illuminate the village center at night.

I have developed an inspection report and will enlist the aid of other PCVs to inspect some of the installations near their sites.

Photos: https://plus.google.com/photos/114324927553623472875/albums/5988150669603794449

and https://plus.google.com/photos/114324927553623472875/albums/5956842942236187441

I do renewable energy trainings for the newer PCV groups, showing them the array of possible projects available. They then see if one or more are appropriate in their site and see if there is local interest and cooperation. I help them design the project and shepherd it through the grant process. Not the same as doing it myself, but fun to get in on many good projects.

Another recent project was translating an entire magazine (AMARAY) about renewable energy in Peru from Spanish to English for a cooperating NGO. I have to admit that Google Translate (I liked the old Babblefish name better) did most of the heavy lifting. It did a perfect job about 90% of the time, but has problems with technical terms and slang.

The huge US Embassy (aka The Fort) in Lima

USAID recently held a Climate Change conference at the US Embassy here in Lima. Security is a little over the top – no cellphones, cameras, computers or even USB memories allowed – plus the standard empty your pockets and take off your belt stuff. They asked me to do a presentation on Peace Corps Peru's renewable energy efforts under the ECPA program. So, I went back through all the grant records and compiled a list of our results. In the 3 years of the program, with a total budget of about $45,000, here's what we did :

Peace Corps Peru – ECPA
Activities FY 2011-2013

• 10 Workshops : trained and educated 127 PCVs and 87 community partners
• 42 Small Grants (each < US$ 1,000.)
  • 10 Solar PV Projects – total of 24 systems
  • 2 Pico Solar Projects - 83 homes + follow on
  • 12 Biodigester Projects - 13 units installed
  • 18 Improved Cook Stoves Projects - over 400 stoves + follow on
  • 3 Wind Projects - 3 wind turbines installed
  • 4 Climate Change Projects – over 150 students trained
  • 2 Bottle Bulb Projects - over 80 + follow on
  • 2 Solar Hot Water Projects - 4 systems

This has got to some of the best “Bang-for-buck” in the international development world. Yet, sadly, Congress has decided that the program will not be funded next year. The “+ follow on” are projects that have been carried out by communities or families outside of the project.

Speaking of funding, during a visit with the PC Director of Global Operations, I learned that the Peace Corps budget, after being stagnant at around $340M for the last few years, will actually be increased next year , to about $380M. For the same cost as the Army marching bands, PC will field over 8,000 volunteers around the world.

Angel displays the 'new' computers back in San Luis

I'm happy to report that I continue to work with my dear friend and community partner, Angel Garcia in “mi pueblo” of San Luis de Canete. During my service there, I had tried but failed to get computers for the new Youth Tech Center. I finally made the connection, when the PC office in Lima replaced all its computers and 10 of the old ones went to San Luis !! And while I was at the USAID conference, I ran into the guy who is in charge of the grant request we made last April, for Cerro de Oro. At LONG last, it looks like this may actually happen, as well.

I had a lovely 63^rd birthday with Ingrid, with whom I share a birthday (also the Peace Corps' birthday) and “oldest PCVs in Peru” honors. We visited a couple of museums, had a wicked good dinner and were home by 9. While the Larco museum was impressive and included an ancient porn section, the Nat'l Archeology museum was far more educational.

Larco photos: https://plus.google.com/photos/114324927553623472875/albums/5994012593823645233

Nat Archeology photos: https://plus.google.com/photos/114324927553623472875/albums/5994014241040816049

The solar waterfalls at the Peace Corps center in Lima have gotten some upgrades. I added a timer, since the system was often left running until the battery died. Also, I had to add an automatic fill to the reservoir. Just connected a hose to a float valve. It's amazing how much water is lost due to evaporation and the birds splashing around. Since running outside water is pretty rare in Lima, the waterfall attracts TONS of birds – some nice colorful ones, too.

The compost pile I started at the PC office is composting down nicely – slightly surprised by how much volume is lost as it decomposes down. Still hoping to add a biodigester soon.

Personal note :The water in Lima is treated at a huge modern plant, which I've actually visited. I've tested the water many times – if anything , it has too much chlorine in it. It’s as safe as any in the US. So, I drink it and make ice out of it. The strange thing is that my landlord and the staff at the PC office are shocked at this behavior. The good news is that nobody takes my ice.

I enjoyed a morning and breakfast with cousin Conrad Plimpton. He was enroute to Cusco, escorting his grand-daughter Emma to a nurse internship. I always enjoy our wide ranging conversation.

In service to my alma mater, I interviewed a young man who had applied to Princeton and was living in Lima. He was so articulate and accomplished it was scary. I'm not sure I could get accepted these days.

Another interesting encounter – Cliff Brown is with USAID in Lima and is constructing a device to capture wave energy. It is much simpler , cheaper and more durable than most of the wave generators I've seen. I'll be helping him in the field.

Thanks for hanging in there. I'll try to get back to shorter blogs, going forward.

CHEERS !!