Tuesday, November 13, 2018

Amazon Heroine – Isabel Godin




While all of the Amazon stories I’ve read thus far are amazing, none are more extraordinary than that of one Isabel Maria de Jesus Grameson Godin de Odonais. Born to the Peruvian governor of Otalvo (just south of Quito in present day Ecuador), Isabel was a bright young woman, who spoke her native Spanish, French, Portuguese and Quechua, the indigenous language of Peru. At the age of 13, when most women of her class were already married, she fell in love with a visiting Frenchman, Jean Godin. Over the protests of her parents, they were married a year later and she gave birth to her first of 9 children, none of whom would survive to adulthood. Just as they were planning to return to France, Smallpox hit the Quito area hard and the Godins lost their first child and moved far south of the city to Riobamba. For 7 long years, their dream of returning to France was shattered by a series of births and childhood deaths, exacerbated by failing finances.

In 1748, they received word that Jean’s father had died and he elected to return to France, settle his father’s estate and return for Isabel, who was again pregnant. Rather than go the normal route – up the coast and across Panama, he elected to go straight east, crossing the Andes and travelling down the Amazon to the Portuguese coast. Miraculously, he made the trip safely in just 13 months and settled the estate as planned. Unfortunately, the European powers were headed towards the Seven Year War and he was not able to secure permissions for the return trip up the Amazon. Why he didn’t just take the Panama route back to Peru (or why he didn’t consider birth control) remain a mystery. He did manage to make it to French Guianna, where he waited 15 years for the war to end and international relations to settle.  At long last, he resumed his trip to fetch Isabel, who had been waiting (childless) with her parents in Quito.

Once again, fate intervened, and Jean was struck ill. Unable to continue, he dispatched his friend Tristan D’Oreasaval to go in his place and return with his wife. Jean’s private boat carried D’Oreasaval up the Amazon to Loreto (present day Iquitos, Peru). Instead of making the difficult journey up-river and across the Andes, D’Oreasaval gave the papers and some of the funds to a Jesuit priest, who was headed to Quito, and stayed in Loreto to party and start his own trading business. As any good Frenchman would do. The Jesuit was never heard from again, but word reached Isabel in Quito that a boat was waiting for her on the Amazon to take her to Jean. On the basis of this flimsy evidence, Isabel, now 42 years old, would begin a most extraordinary odyssey of survival to reunite with her husband, absent almost 20 years.

Isabel sold all possessions and organized a party that included her two brothers, a French doctor and some 40 guides and servants to carry her across the Andes and down the Amazon. The journey began well, as Isabel was carried on the backs of servants across the mountains. But, when they reached a river outpost on the eastern slope, where canoes and rafts were supposed to be waiting, they found just a smoldering village – burned by its inhabitants to stop the spread of a smallpox outbreak. The next day, the party awoke to find that all of the guides and servants had fled, fearful of the Pox, leaving just Isabel, her brothers, 3 Frenchmen and 2 loyal servants to ponder their situation. They located a few of the returning villagers, who disclosed a raft and canoe, and hired them to travel with them down river. The next day, the villagers took off with their pay, once again causing thought of returning to Quito. But, Isabel was not to be deterred from her marital reunion after 20 years and convinced the group to press on. Besides, there was a mission just a few days down river where they could resupply and hire more help.

Their over-confidence was typical of most Amazon travelers, as their raft and canoe quickly overturned in some rapids and they lost almost all their supplies but managed to reach shore safely. The canoe was recovered and two of the Frenchmen proposed that they travel to the mission and send back help. Never trust a Frenchman, let alone two. After waiting over 3 weeks and using up almost all their remaining supplies, Isabel decided (correctly) that the Frenchies were not coming back and directed the construction of a raft. Sadly, her determination far exceeded her ship-building skills. This flimsy craft shortly hit a log and broke apart, stranding the group once again, but this time with zero supplies and creating a desperate situation. She then decided they should abandon the river and set out on foot through the jungle for the mission. They wandered through the rainforest for 2 weeks, living of what bits of food they could find, until collapsing from fever, hunger and thirst. Isabel watched in horror as, one by one, her brothers, nephew and friends died. When the last of her comrades died, she set out alone, wearing her brother’s boots, still determined to reunite with her husband.

Eight days after she left her dead party, two natives were stunned to see a small tattered white woman emerge from the jungle as they were about to head down river. They were further shocked when she spoke in their Quechua language, begging for assistance. They took her to the mission, where she recovered for the next  6 weeks. In the 5 weeks since her party boarded the raft and canoe, she had travelled only about 20 miles. The director of the mission was quite surprised to see her, as the Frenchmen had reported them all dead and continued down river. Her continued travel down the Amazon was heralded in advance with some fanfare. She had become quite the heroine and gained the friendship and assistance of all she met. Along the way, she ran into one of the Frenchmen who had abandoned her, as well as the traitorous D’Oreasaval, who actually had the nerve to sue the Godin’s for wages while he lived in Loreto. I would have loved to have been there to see either of those meetings.

And so it was that Isabel and Jean Godin were finally back in each other’s arms, after almost 21 years apart. They stayed in French Guiana for a few years, recovering their health before returning to France. And living happily ever after.

Two morals to the tale:
11.      Love can conquer all.
22.      Never trust a Frenchman. Especially in the jungle.

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