Training the Newbies

This marks the midpoint of my Peace Corps service. In some ways, it seems like I just got here, until I reflect on all the amazing activities, adventures, sights, sounds and smells that I’ve experienced here. They say you get what you put in to any endeavor. But, this is one gig where you get about 150% of what you put in.

The bag was just unpacked from the jungle adventure, when I jumped right back in to the groove I call life in San Luis. 14 new Water & Sanitation Volunteers were headed my way to be trained and fed. It is a smaller group than my training group – Peace Corps has had its budget cut. (don’t even get me started on how our nation can cut the budget for Peace and Friendship, while spending ever more on wars and killing) They are generally older and more serious than my group – no prima-dona dilatants here – and several are married.

We visited my house and saw a “typical” PCV site room – though no such thing exists. I showed off several of my improvements, including the newly invented “Soapy Tap” soap dispenser. Then we went out to La Quebrada – scene of the recent  Cat Festival, where JASS president Luis proudly showcased the all-new well house, pump, chlorine gas injection system and back-up generator. After that, we drove out to the Cerro de Oro burial ground, which elicited all the usual “Oh my God”s and “Wow, look at this”s. They ran all over the hill and up to the ruins. Getting them down off the Cerro was like herding cats.

Final stop was the goat farm, where the family welcomed us warmly. I explained the bottle bulb, biodigester, and solar pumping / lighting system and they got to see a Cocina Mejorada (improved cook stove) in action, as well as Biol fertilizer being sprayed on the crops that will feed the goats. Mama Anita and Chanel cooked us a wonderful lunch of sopa seca, carapulca and papas con huancaina. Most of it was cooked over a Bio-gas flame or on the Cocina. And there were samples of the goat cheese and yogurt all around. Everyone got a walk on the beach to boot. I figure they all slept well on the bus ride back home.

I was honored this week to have a photo of me and a goat used as a PC ad on Facebook, my design for the Soapy Tap featured on the PC FB page for Global Hand-Washing Day and two articles published in the PC Peru newsletter.

It was a tough week for utilities. The new water line is in and all new house connections are being made, which caused the water to be off for over 48 hours. Because of our normally US style water service, with chlorine and kick-ass pressure, we don’t have a roof storage tank, so common in rural areas. I’m a bit of a shower freak – gotta have that water on my body or I just don’t feel right. So, I resorted to the old “IronMan” shower – 500 ml can actually give a nice refreshing rinse. And shaving can be done with less than a cup, when no shaving crème is involved.

And then, the new power lines had power on & off for several days. I really can’t complain – so many other Volunteers deal with power and water outages on a regular basis – many have no indoor plumbing. So, America…..enjoy those amazing services that we take for granted. At least my little town has new infrastructure to carry it forward.

Speaking of Mi Pueblo, the drumming (cajon) and dance troupe performed at an event in Lima this week. This is a really big deal – Lima is bigger than NYC in the minds of the kids here. So, to be invited was a HUGE morale boost. I didn’t go, but heard they were better than ever. Their shy and unsure personas have given way to big smiles and enthusiasm, as they realize how very good they are. And there is now a new facility, right near the Muni on the Plaza, where they can practice and perform. This looks to be the start of a wonderful new tradition in San Luis, as more kids want to join the prestigious performance troupe.

A long bike ride, to check on some of my latest projects, was heartening. Every site and project is running fine. Folks are enjoying the better stoves, Bio-gas and fertilizer, better bathrooms and the clean water right at their door. I met one of the wheelchair recipients (still can’t understand her name) in the Plaza. My heart jumped when I saw the bright red metal tubes and her big smile. Really excited and heart-warming to see how such a simple piece of equipment changes lives so dramatically.  She held my hand and cried as she said Gracias about a hundred times. I teared up pretty good, too. Thanks again to Princeton Class of ’77. You folks done good. To be the one who receives all these expressions of gratitude is a gift beyond words. My heart is swollen and my energy renewed every time it happens. The little gifts of fruit, the cookies and pies, the dinners, the kind smiles and greetings of “Ingeniero” or “Goyo”…are so precious. And will carry with me always. I am a very lucky, grateful man.

Jungle Vacation

A bridge over jungle waters

Suspension bridge over river

Jungle lagoon

These leaves are about 4 ft wide

I believe the appropriate expression is “I need a vacation to recover from my vacation”.  I saw and learned a lot about the Amazon basin jungle and enjoyed my first time off in Peru. I only wish that I had done the trip on my own. Not that my travel companions were not wonderful people – just that a non-scripted group travel is prone to delays and indecision.

           The venture began with a trip to Lima and the PC Training Center in Chaclacayo to work with the new group of Volunteers. It was the first time I had seen the training center, as my group trained at another center in Santa Eulalia, another 45 minutes out from Lima. It’s a little smaller, with less landscape than the one we trained at, but the Colonial structure is very comfortable and beautiful. It was a treat to see all of Peru 20, with their eager, shining and slightly apprehensive faces – Just like we were a year ago. Lots more “older” Volunteers, with many in their 40’s, 50’s and 2 over 60. I will gladly yield my title of “Oldest PCV in Peru” when they swear-in.

The Peace Corps hostel in Miraflores is “Friends House”. It is adequate, but not nearly as nice as the PC hotels in other capital cities. It does, however enjoy an incredible location, just a few blocks from the opulent Marriott, the ocean, JFK Park (yes, a Peruvian park named for a US President) and great restaurants. And a very nice full breakfast.

The “La Merced” bus line seemed the logical choice for transport to the city of La Merced. The route is spectacular, following the mighty Rimac River from Lima, past my old training town of Santa Eulalia, through canyons of high sheer rock walls, to an altitude of 10,000 ft. Near the summit, there was still snow on the ground and huge mining operations of all sorts. Then, the descent into the Amazon basin, past mountain meadows and streams to the steamy jungle city of La Merced. The bus was older – a hand-me-down from the nice coastal bus companies. The bathroom was out of order and the ventilation was turned off as soon as the ascent began, causing a quick and uncomfortable temperature rise. Add to that constant twists and turns of cut-backs and altitude and you understand why they pass out the little plastic bags at the start of the trip. The only relief was a lunch stop in the cool clear mountain air.

La Merced was hot and humid, even as the sun went down.  Tons of little moto-taxis zooming around, as no one wants to walk in the heat – but we did – just to keep the group together. I’ve been travelling solo for so long, that the group thing seems slow and frustrating, including just deciding on a hotel that suits everyone and when and where to eat. A wide, muddy river runs along the town, with thick jungle hills all around. The first foray into the jungle was amazing – trees that seemed to grow right out of view and strange and wonderful plants and flowers everywhere. But, far more than the sights, were the SOUNDS – the constant insect buzz and whir, punctuated by birds and small screaming monkeys, all of which were well hidden. Except the bugs, which are EVERYWHERE. The only thing that made them tolerable was knowing I would only be there a few days.

The town is loaded with coffee and cacao and peanuts – in all shapes and sizes. Walking into the coffee roasting shops was heavenly – I only wish that brewed coffee tasted as good as the ground coffee smells – except that I’d be totally caffeinated all day.  The other big treat was iced fruit drinks – kind of like slushies or slurppies, but just juice a little sugar, frozen just to the point of slush. I went double digits in no time.

When it came time to venture further into the deeper, more primitive jungle, we lost 3 of 5 troopers, leaving just Pat and I to carry the Gringo flag into the heart of darkness. And dark it is. As soon as we left the openness of a river, the canopy closed overhead. Despite the torrid hot sunshine bright overhead, there is a twilight quality and cool warmth that pervades. And that noise grew louder the further in we ventured. And always the insects all around the head and in clouds. Sleeping in a hammock with a WIDE net was some relief – the nearest buzzing was at least 4 ft away.

A visit to a native village was like something out of a 50’s National Geographic. Stick and mud huts and open fire cooking was somewhat belied by stocks of pasta and rice and Inka Kola and gas stoves for when the tourists aren’t there. I have absolutely no idea what some of the fruits were – never seen anything like them. And while I pride myself on trying new foods here in Peru (guinea pig, cow heart and cat), I just couldn’t manage the grub looking things or the piranha fish. Canoeing on the river was not so great – the water is muddy and the sun brutal. Dipping a hand into the water did help.

The travel was in a 4x4 pickup with raised body, to aid in crossing rivers without bridges. Much more comfortable that the bus, though on VERY bumpy roads. On return to La Merced, the hotels were full, so jumped on a bus to Oxipampa, thinking we’d visit the jungle parks there. But suddenly Pat got nauseous, and I noticed a nasty bite on his back – a small black/purple are with two fang marks about 1/16” apart. Dizzyness soon followed, so we got some medication, consulted the PC Medical staff and visited a local clinic. It was a well known local spider – can’t remember the name – and so began the trek back to Lima.

Disappointed with the La Merced bus line, we decided to try Junin line. The nice lady at the desk promised A/C and a direct route with no stops. There is no nice way to say it – she F-ing LIED. This bus was in even worse shape and my heated words to the driver were met with shrugged shoulders. And then, in the midst of more heat and humidity and vomiting (some by Pat) and constant stops….the heater started blasting HOT air into the cabin. Once again, I rushed to the driver to let him know and he explained that he had no choice – the engine was red-lining and he had to cool it down with this Hellish method. Even this was not enough and we eventually DID overheat with an ominous whoosh of steam from the rear of the bus.

Two and a half hours on the side of the road. Although we had gained some altitude and there was a nice breeze. The driver found some water nearby and got us back on the road – just about the time a La Merced bus passed us. And mention must be made of the menagerie aboard – a prize fighting cock, two little lambs in a bag and a small baby parrot, whose owner was trying to potty train it on a napkin. The only solution I could find was to stand the entire way, directly under the roof vent. My years of sailing served me well as we rocked and rolled up to the summit and careened back down to the coast.

So, boys and girls – be careful when you ask for a jungle adventure – for you may surely get it………

Second Solar Pump

Mama Rosa gets first water at her house - just flip a switch

Another busy week in mi pueblo. Trying to get everything buttoned down before I do a training for the Peru 20 group and then hit the road to the jungle. And make sure that all is ready for the WATSAN 20 group training here the day after I get back.

wiring job - switches for lights and pump

Mama Rosa, digging the water line ditch

To that end – we kicked some solar butt on Sunday, starting with a bike ride which included 5 x5M lengths of water line strapped to my frame. (Yes, I still love my bike) Rosa and her son Elvis and I got the new second solar-powered pump system installed. Only one small snag – materials list was short one PVC fitting, but the goat farm was nearby with all my spare parts. The “ladder” they gave me to get up on the roof was not exactly OSHA approved, but it worked just fine. Elvis and Rosa did the water line trench, which was lined with beach sand and covered. They raise turkeys, and while we were testing the pump, the chicks all gravitated to the line – I figure the vibration was the attraction. Chicks dig vibration – Si o No ?

Meanwhile, I worked my magic on the plumbing and wiring. Once again, my tools proved invaluable in speeding the job flow – testing polarity, drilling perfect holes in the wall for pipes, stripping and nutting wires and installing screws. So now, all Mama Rosa does is flip the switch inside the door and she gets a nice flow of clean water, right at her door. I also gave them another switched circuit for lighting, to save them on kerosene lamps, if power is still available after switching. We also discussed future plans for bringing the water inside – if they get a sink – and hooking up a shower. They’ve got plenty of hose to reach the other 2 houses next door and the livestock. Water flow tested at about 160 gallons per hour.

I’ve learned that Margarita got the job in Lima. Happy for her – she’ll have more time with Victor, but even less time with her kiddles. She plans to come home on weekends – we’ll see how that goes. The kids will be living with relatives here – Camila adores her aunt and they have a great time together. When school gets out for the summer in December, they’ll be moving to Lima, as well. They have been such a joy for me. Hard to think of not having them around every day.

Closed out my ECPA renewable energy grant. Lots of paperwork and accounting – not my favorite part of the job. I really enjoy the field construction, the planning, the organizing, the physical work and working with very helpful and appreciative folks. Explaining the technology, operation and maintenance. The field follow-up. I love all that, so I guess 1 day of paperwork is a small price to pay. And as my beloved Grandfather said “Greggie Boy, the job’s not done until the work space is clean, the paperwork is done and all tools cleaned and ready for the next job.” Word.

Looking forward to meeting the new group of PCVs and doing some training. And then on to adventure, through the Andes to the Amazon jungle. (insert Tarzan yell) My first vacation in over a year. I’m due…..

Before I go - one last plug for the Playgrounds project. Thanks to over 20 of you wonderful folks, we are over half way to the funding goal. If you haven’t already, please consider a deductible donation at :

https://donate.peacecorps.gov/index.cfm?shell=donate.contribute.projDetail&projdesc=527-125

And we thank you for your support.

Kitty Meat and Pachamanca

Lining up for cat sandwich at the Cat Festival

Kittys are boiled, then roasted in this oven

The fire is set under clean rocks

Fire is lit and will burn for hours, heating the rocks

Food is placed on top of the hot rocks and covered with banana leaves and dirt

After 3 hours, the delicious feast is ready to eat

It’s always a special time for me when I get to share time and space with some of the wonderful folks who are my fellow Peace Corps Volunteers. Imagine if your closest friend lived 40 minutes away and most were several hours, even days away ? So, hold precious those nearby friends, who can meet you for pizza and beer on a moment’s notice.

Some of the gang was in town for the Cat Festival in nearby La Quebrada. Specifically, to see what eating the Kitty was all about. First, we headed up the Cerro de Oro to check out the ancient bones – and I don’t mean mine. The Cerro never fails to impress. New discoveries are made with every visit. And speculation abounds anew, about the life that these Huari / Huarco folks might have led. And how the site might be protected. I’m about ready to give up on Peruvians and go with some US archeology programs. Anyone have contacts ?

I rode out to the Festival with the Muni on the bus carrying the kid’s cajon and dance group, who were performing a couple of their numbers. The usually quiet little town was transformed into a carnival, with rides and vendors of all sorts lining the streets. Lucky that the last of the new water system had just been completed. Large caldrons were boiling the soon-to-be eaten cats. The meat would then be roasted or cooked in deep fat. I found a small stand selling “cat burgers”. Chopped Kitty, tomato, onion and some thin, garlicky sauce, on a typical pancita roll. At 4 soles ($1.50), it seemed pricey. But how many times would I get to eat cat ? I tried some of the meat by itself – very tender, but a little stringy, texture of chicken. And the taste was more like pork, but with the garlic, hard to compare. I’ve heard it’s like rabbit, which I’ve had, but don’t exactly recall. The sandwich was quite tasty and quite frankly – anticlimactic. MeeYow, MeeYum.

I hung around and tasted every wine and pisco there was – and there were lots. I bought a bottle a tolerable wine – most Peruvians wines are too sweet to my palate – for the big pachamanca party the next day. And listened to our kids do their thing. They play with such enthusiasm. I only wish more of them were smiling – they look so earnest. A moto-taxi took me home along my “high-speed” bike route.

The next morning, I biked out to the Las Palmas spring and was delighted to find Elvis working hard on clearing the area and installing the capitation. He had found some big concrete columns, chopped them up and formed a neat rectangle – not the circle I had planned, but a good innovative “McGuyver” solution. Avelino and I brought all the solar components over, along with another cable spool side, to use as a cover.

Then, back to San Luis to help Fernando prep the big pachamanca. The family owns a small farm near town, with beautiful old fruit trees, grape vines and vegetable garden. Camila, Santi and Amir had a ball, running and playing among the trees. Only makes me more certain that the kids in our town need a place to play. Pachamanca is a traditional Peruvian feast, cooked in an earth pit. A clam bake of sorts. Wood is set into the hole in a very particular pattern and covered by clean round stones. The fire is lit and heats the rocks and all the food is carefully placed – again in a very specific way, so that all the ingredients will be ready simultaneously. The food is covered with multiple layers of washed banana leaves, then burlap sacks and then about 6” of dirt to insulate. A cross with flowers is the traditional “topping-off” ornament.

After an insufferable 2.5 hours, the dirt is scraped away, burlap and leaves peeled back to reveal a steamy, perfectly cooked buffet. This feast was : pork, chicken (wrapped in mint), lamb, potato, sweet potato, corn and fava beans. And it was all succulent and delicious. Beer, wine, pisco and good cheer flowed at all quarters. And I waddled home – an over-fed, but very happy camper.

Helping a baby goat feed

Another ride to the Farm to re-install the over-pressure valve, which the boys had put in the wrong place. As usual, the work went quickly and smoothly. I had time to help a 2 day old baby goat feed. Its mother had no milk, so we rounded up a surrogate – goats move fast when they want to. The little guy seemed lacking inexperience, since he kept trying to suck on a leg. So, I guided him to the tit and he chowed down. The hardest part was keeping the older kids from pushing him away. They wanted to charge right in and butt him away. On the ride home, I came across (yet another) fiesta in progress. This one was a colorfully clad clan, celebrating Fiesta Santiago, an Andean tradition from the Huancayo area. Many folks in Santa Barbara are from that area. Posed for a couple of Goofy Gringo photos, a round of cerveza and headed home. God, I love this “job”.

Avelino’s family owns what was once the Administrator’s House for the huge sugar mill in Santa Barbara, which produced 150,000 lbs a day. The British knew well how to build for the tropics. The house construction is like no other in town. Huge adobe blocks were used, but a wooden roof with ventilating skylights and strong pine flooring that has resisted termite attack for some 150 years. High ceilings, full-on indoor plumbing with a septic tank and a sort of shock-absorber foundation, that has withstood multiple huge earthquakes and even a tsunami. Why didn’t the locals learn from this brilliant engineering?

My imagination raced to consider what life might have been like for the British manager, living on a private stretch of pristine beach, the sea-breeze wafting through the large front window and veranda. White jacketed waiters moving quietly over polished pine floors. I suspect a large store of gin and tonic, took the sting out of the isolation from family and Queen.

My friend, Carrie Hessler is now Acting Director of the Peace Corps. I met her when she came to visit my site a few months back and took us to an elegant lunch at El Piloto, the famous touristy eatery here in San Luis. Also learned she is the one who sent the PC film crew here. Nice to have friends in high places. And low. The whole spectrum is filled with good people. I’m glad to know them all.

When the boys from the La Quebrada JASS told me to come and see the new water system pump, I jumped on the bike and raced over. What I saw blew my mind. There was Jass president Luis, beaming at the entrance to the new Pump House facility. And inside…Holy Cow!! Not only was there a new pump, but a new concrete cover on the old open well, a state-of-the-art, chlorine gas injection system and a new back-up generator. I brought him some good news about a much cheaper dry chlorine source I’d found in Lima – now totally irrelevant.

After that shocker, came another : Margarita is in Lima, training for a new job. If it works out, she’ll be moving to Lima, though the kids would stay at their aunt’s until school is over in December. But then, they would move to Lima, too. More than a little sad about this – I adore my kiddles, pesky as they can be. I’d still have the kids out at the Farm, but not the same.

It turns out that the workers on the new sewer and water lines are mostly from Bolivia, as is the contractor. Part of the deal, though, was that they had to offer work to anyone here in town who wanted it, but only a handful did. This should be standard practice for any outside contractor – locals get first priority. Unemployment is very low here – anyone who wants a job can get one – for $10/day.

It’s been yet another rich, wonderful, productive and rewarding week. I feel so very fortunate to be able to live and serve here in San Luis. Peace Corps is a special kind of service. Living in a community for two years means that the folks who I help are not nameless photos – they are my friends and partners. I look them in the eye. I eat with them. I laugh with them. I am proud and honored to part of this Corps of wonderful Volunteers.