Jungle Vacation

A bridge over jungle waters

Suspension bridge over river

Jungle lagoon

These leaves are about 4 ft wide

I believe the appropriate expression is “I need a vacation to recover from my vacation”.  I saw and learned a lot about the Amazon basin jungle and enjoyed my first time off in Peru. I only wish that I had done the trip on my own. Not that my travel companions were not wonderful people – just that a non-scripted group travel is prone to delays and indecision.

           The venture began with a trip to Lima and the PC Training Center in Chaclacayo to work with the new group of Volunteers. It was the first time I had seen the training center, as my group trained at another center in Santa Eulalia, another 45 minutes out from Lima. It’s a little smaller, with less landscape than the one we trained at, but the Colonial structure is very comfortable and beautiful. It was a treat to see all of Peru 20, with their eager, shining and slightly apprehensive faces – Just like we were a year ago. Lots more “older” Volunteers, with many in their 40’s, 50’s and 2 over 60. I will gladly yield my title of “Oldest PCV in Peru” when they swear-in.

The Peace Corps hostel in Miraflores is “Friends House”. It is adequate, but not nearly as nice as the PC hotels in other capital cities. It does, however enjoy an incredible location, just a few blocks from the opulent Marriott, the ocean, JFK Park (yes, a Peruvian park named for a US President) and great restaurants. And a very nice full breakfast.

The “La Merced” bus line seemed the logical choice for transport to the city of La Merced. The route is spectacular, following the mighty Rimac River from Lima, past my old training town of Santa Eulalia, through canyons of high sheer rock walls, to an altitude of 10,000 ft. Near the summit, there was still snow on the ground and huge mining operations of all sorts. Then, the descent into the Amazon basin, past mountain meadows and streams to the steamy jungle city of La Merced. The bus was older – a hand-me-down from the nice coastal bus companies. The bathroom was out of order and the ventilation was turned off as soon as the ascent began, causing a quick and uncomfortable temperature rise. Add to that constant twists and turns of cut-backs and altitude and you understand why they pass out the little plastic bags at the start of the trip. The only relief was a lunch stop in the cool clear mountain air.

La Merced was hot and humid, even as the sun went down.  Tons of little moto-taxis zooming around, as no one wants to walk in the heat – but we did – just to keep the group together. I’ve been travelling solo for so long, that the group thing seems slow and frustrating, including just deciding on a hotel that suits everyone and when and where to eat. A wide, muddy river runs along the town, with thick jungle hills all around. The first foray into the jungle was amazing – trees that seemed to grow right out of view and strange and wonderful plants and flowers everywhere. But, far more than the sights, were the SOUNDS – the constant insect buzz and whir, punctuated by birds and small screaming monkeys, all of which were well hidden. Except the bugs, which are EVERYWHERE. The only thing that made them tolerable was knowing I would only be there a few days.

The town is loaded with coffee and cacao and peanuts – in all shapes and sizes. Walking into the coffee roasting shops was heavenly – I only wish that brewed coffee tasted as good as the ground coffee smells – except that I’d be totally caffeinated all day.  The other big treat was iced fruit drinks – kind of like slushies or slurppies, but just juice a little sugar, frozen just to the point of slush. I went double digits in no time.

When it came time to venture further into the deeper, more primitive jungle, we lost 3 of 5 troopers, leaving just Pat and I to carry the Gringo flag into the heart of darkness. And dark it is. As soon as we left the openness of a river, the canopy closed overhead. Despite the torrid hot sunshine bright overhead, there is a twilight quality and cool warmth that pervades. And that noise grew louder the further in we ventured. And always the insects all around the head and in clouds. Sleeping in a hammock with a WIDE net was some relief – the nearest buzzing was at least 4 ft away.

A visit to a native village was like something out of a 50’s National Geographic. Stick and mud huts and open fire cooking was somewhat belied by stocks of pasta and rice and Inka Kola and gas stoves for when the tourists aren’t there. I have absolutely no idea what some of the fruits were – never seen anything like them. And while I pride myself on trying new foods here in Peru (guinea pig, cow heart and cat), I just couldn’t manage the grub looking things or the piranha fish. Canoeing on the river was not so great – the water is muddy and the sun brutal. Dipping a hand into the water did help.

The travel was in a 4x4 pickup with raised body, to aid in crossing rivers without bridges. Much more comfortable that the bus, though on VERY bumpy roads. On return to La Merced, the hotels were full, so jumped on a bus to Oxipampa, thinking we’d visit the jungle parks there. But suddenly Pat got nauseous, and I noticed a nasty bite on his back – a small black/purple are with two fang marks about 1/16” apart. Dizzyness soon followed, so we got some medication, consulted the PC Medical staff and visited a local clinic. It was a well known local spider – can’t remember the name – and so began the trek back to Lima.

Disappointed with the La Merced bus line, we decided to try Junin line. The nice lady at the desk promised A/C and a direct route with no stops. There is no nice way to say it – she F-ing LIED. This bus was in even worse shape and my heated words to the driver were met with shrugged shoulders. And then, in the midst of more heat and humidity and vomiting (some by Pat) and constant stops….the heater started blasting HOT air into the cabin. Once again, I rushed to the driver to let him know and he explained that he had no choice – the engine was red-lining and he had to cool it down with this Hellish method. Even this was not enough and we eventually DID overheat with an ominous whoosh of steam from the rear of the bus.

Two and a half hours on the side of the road. Although we had gained some altitude and there was a nice breeze. The driver found some water nearby and got us back on the road – just about the time a La Merced bus passed us. And mention must be made of the menagerie aboard – a prize fighting cock, two little lambs in a bag and a small baby parrot, whose owner was trying to potty train it on a napkin. The only solution I could find was to stand the entire way, directly under the roof vent. My years of sailing served me well as we rocked and rolled up to the summit and careened back down to the coast.

So, boys and girls – be careful when you ask for a jungle adventure – for you may surely get it………