Princeton Engineers Without Borders

Hanging on the side of the mountain

Proudly wearing the orange with the EWB group

working at 8000 ft altitude is hard

It was a tight squeeze to get PVC pipe to site

The EWB group takes a rest

I spent the last week in Samne, up north in La Libertad, about 2 hours into the mountains from Trujillo at 6500 ft. The Princeton Engineers Without Borders is building a new potable drinking water system in the even more remote site of Pitahaya. The supply line runs 6 km from the source to the village, which sits high on a ridge above the Moche River. A second system will be built to serve Pitahaya Baja. That source is much closer, but too low to serve the higher village.

After an overnight bus from Lima to Trujillo, I took a really rough combi ride up to Samne, a small town with good water system, sewer and winding roads with 300 ft drops off the sides. The area is famous for it’s pineapples, which are grown EVERYWHERE. Unlike Canete, with its flat and rich soil, these folks farm on slopes of like 60 – 70 degrees. I stayed with Mama Rosa, Harrison Barnes host Mom, before he left PC due to back problems. No internet at all and cell service that only worked in 3 small points out on the edges of town, made life frustrating and work slow.

When I got to town, the 7 young EWB Volunteers were off to nearby Otusco, to get permission to use a new spring source. They had recently discovered that the source they planned to use was too seasonal to work. The new Source is much better, but access is via a goat path. I actually declined to go the last 100 yds for fear of death or serious injury. The path was about a foot wide, against a rock wall, with a 500 ft drop.

The new source has created all sorts of delays and problems. New plans had to be drawn, permissions obtained, papers filed, material list revised, etc. And everything takes longer here. Some offices are only open in the morning and others close at will. There is no FedEx, so documents can be carried by a friend or relative who happen to be going that way. This is even more of an issue for EWB, who are only in country for a month at a time. A good case for the 2 year PC term.

Despite the set-backs, the 7 undergraduate Tigers were wonderful to work with. Bright, alert and inquisitive – full of questions about my experiences at Princeton and beyond. They also did classes at the local school in water use, hand-washing and ecology.

The first day, a few of us went out to measure the new source spring and re-survey the whole length of the water line route. The entire route runs along-side and existing aqueduct, which carries Moche River water to the town. Sadly, the upstream mines have been dumping toxins in the river. At one point they hit a vein of Arsenic, which caused crops to wither (imagine what it was doing to the people?). The government put a stop to that mine, but the water is still not fit for drinking. We measured the areas where iron pipe will be required. The route runs in and out of 4 canyons, so we looked at where it might be worthwhile to run across the canyon with a cable support. The hike was not easy – at altitude, along a path that was only 1 ft wide in places. Big rocks had fallen in other areas and were split with hand chisel and removed to the extent that passage was possible. All the canyons, except the first, were steep and rocky – views were spectacular. About half way to the village, we were met by a delightful young woman, who had carried our lunches all the way from town. And enjoyed a picnic with a view, as they say.

The village of Pitahaya is just now getting electricity. Latrines were built there last year. The residents hand carried the concrete light pole up the hill, while maintaining their fields – mostly pineapples and avocado. They work hard on these improvements and Alan, the former mayor of Samne also gives great support. Next year they’ll have good water. Meanwhile, they’re using water that has metal and bacteria contamination.

Some of the crew and I went to Trujillo on a hardware and document run the next day. The combi only runs 3 times each day and carries all manner of freight along with passengers. The route is a single lane road, full of cut-backs with hair-pin turns and rough beyond words. Everything seems to take forever. Just adjusting the materials order was a Herculean effort. On top of that, one of our expedition came down with the revenge and was laid low at the Colonial Hotel, where PCVs usually stay. A pleasant surprise was running into other PCVs from La Libertad at the hotel. Always a treat.

Emily and I returned to base for more planning. All meals were at Mama Luz’s place. Good food – huge portions, as usual.  Dinner conversation reminded me so much of Princeton. Multiple topics, changing frequently – insightful, thoughtful and articulate. Particularly delightful, coming from a bunch of engineers. No offense, PG. There was not the alcohol consumption I experience among PCVs, which was refreshing.

Next day, the materials were supposed to be loaded in Trujillo at 8:30am. Well, first the hired truck was late, and then found to be too short. The second truck finally got loaded at 2pm. Every time a phone call was made required a trek to one of the few reception sites in town. Even then, dropped calls were plentiful. We finally loaded in the Police pick-up for the ride (with flashing lights) to where the truck would arrive to wait. And wait. And wait. The truck had been stopped 4 times along the route for having PVC pipes sticking out the back. Each time was a 2 to 5 sole ($0.60 - $2) bribe.

We rode atop the truck up a VERY narrow and partially washed out road (more like wide path), wedged between rock cliff and sheer drop-off. At several places, the driver refused to continue until rocks were added to the side for support. When we reached the materials staging area, which is still ¼ mile up to the village, we unloaded the truck and covered with tarps. Men from the village came down to help. They would grab pipe bundles by themselves and sprint up the hill. We used 2 volunteers per bundle. And walked. The driver got wedged in the turn-around and required serious McGuyver engineering to extract it. The ride down was even better, though both were definitely “E” tickets.

The final day was a presentation to the village – had to break the news that the water line would not be finished this trip. Hard for everyone. Though, I sense that the residents were a little relieved – they have been working hard on the electric project and neglecting their crops. The reservoir tank will be completed and the source secured and contained. Some pipe will be laid for use at the source end and canyon crossings will be refined, but that is about all that can be reasonably accomplished this trip.

I returned to Trujillo to search for polyethylene glue for a biodigester experiment, but came up empty. The ride home was my first  Super Cama experience. Like 1^st class international. Me Likee.

Forward

Well, color me happy. After two weeks of design, approval, budget approval, ordering materials. And Waiting. My big metal sheet finally got delivered to the welding shop in San Luis. Those of you sitting in the States know that this could have all been done in about an hour, but here is another matter. Materials and transport and communication are all poor – all holds this country back from getting things done. It will become the center-piece for the new security cover for the Vista Alegre spring box. The welder did an excellent job of fabricating – charged all of $7 for some beautiful work. All materials moved to construction site. Sunday was the appointed construction time. Everyone showed up promptly and worked hard and well. My plan and design both worked well. I had everything and everything fit like the proverbial glove. The boys were especially delighted that I showed up with 3 liters of Inca-Kola. Personally, I can’t stand the stuff, but Peruvians LOVE it. My Pappy always told me – Keep yer Crew Happy.

Job completed in LESS time than I had anticipated. Nothing that could go wrong did. So, the boys and I retired to some more Inca and beer and picked on the carcass of a half lamb from a roast the night before. Fresh roasted lamb sandwiches with some chopped onion and mint sauce. Damn, I LOVE my “job”. They brought out some moonshine Pisco and I made a graceful exit. The bike ride home was via the “secret back road” through the agricultural fields. No one out working, so just me and nature. I love “working” in this agricultural area – crops all around in various stages of growth. The sun came out and I was feeling particularly blessed. I must have been really good to my Mom or something. Then, going through Laura Caller – there was my buddy Angel, who offered the Muni truck and driver to help me tomorrow. I just about cried at the support and cooperation and appreciation I get from these wonderful folks. Damn, I love this “job”.

I did come across a cool materials find – a 12VDC compact fluorescent bulb. Never even seen one in the US. The solar water pumps will have some extra battery power that can be used for lights or charging cell phones. These little bulbs will make that power go much further than using yucky old car incandescents. I’ll be glad when September rolls around and our cloud cover disappears.

The town has put together a detailed list of folks who need wheelchairs, which I will carry to Lima when I meet with the head of Wheelchair Foundation. Hopefully, we can put something together on short notice.

Two trips to Lima (aka Big Lime) this week. A good visit at Q-Energy, the folks who sell solar panels. Very nice, clean organized operation. Saw a neat new small modular system they sell which includes a USB charging port and 3 way LED bulb. After, I visited the PC Center, which always feels like “going home”. Our staff is welcoming and always helpful. Sadly learned that 2 more of my WATSAN crew are leaving service. It just doesn’t work out for some folks.

Second trip was to attend a cocktail party for the Wheelchair Foundation and the Class of ’77 Princetonians who have brought 500 chairs to Peru. I snagged 5 for my pueblo. The home was one of those Lima estates that brings to mind Beverly Hills. White jacketed servers plied the crowd with drinks and extraordinary Peruvian food. One of the Princeton Engineers Without Borders was there – I’ll be working with them later this month – building a new water system up north. I am so proud to be a part of an alumni body that gives back some of what they have been given in life.

From the Peruvian Transportation & Culture Dept – Soyuz is a really well run bus company. Their buses are always clean, with a very nice and reasonable on-board snack service, an alert and helpful staff and brass-balled drivers who rule the Road between Lima and Nazca. They show recent movies – (most certainly pirated – but that’s a whole ‘nuther matter). One recent feature was the Three Stooges. My brothers and I watched the Stooges on TV in our youth during Saturday AM cartoon shows. But I don’t ever remember laughing as hard at the cruel slap-stick as Peruvians do. Every time Moe slapped or swung a hammer on his hapless buddies, the entire bus burst into laughter. The classic chainsaw bit – where Moe ruins a chainsaw blade in Curly’s skull – brought the house down. I’ve noticed this penchant for violent slap-stick before, but the Stooges brought the phenomenon into crystal clear focus. I’ll leave it to some sociologist to explain the cultural reaction.

The next fruit after my beloved mandarin oranges have run their season……(drumroll)….Pineapples. Beautiful, small dark yellow fleshed, sweet as candy, drip form your mouth pineapples. It’s been a prolific parade of local fruits since I got here. I am so very grateful to live in Canete. Not just the food and perfect weather – the people and local pride. Yeah, color me happy.

And tired. Good Night, Sweet Princes and Princesses……

Huaytara and Horns

With Dan & Carrie in Huaytara

The stone work is finer than Machu Pichu - looks like laser cuts

This structure has survived multiple major earthquakes

Another trip to Lima. Played the dang 3 Stooges movie again. This time I even started to laugh. Just because everyone on the bus is cracking up over the slap-stick. I managed to score some very rare Bird Posters at the PC Center. Learned that, while I am now the oldest PCV in Peru, a 63 yr-old woman is coming with the Health program of Peru 20 to take my crown. Easy come, easy go.

The monthly Regional Meeting was in the small mountain village of Huaytara. I went there with my friends Dan & Carrie, married Vols from nearby. They were part of the reason I chose Canete to serve. Really beautiful couple. Took the Soyuz down to San Clemnte and then a collectivo up into the mountains. Collectivo is a station wagon that goes from A to B. They wait until full (or overfull) to go. Beautiful drive up the Pisco River valley. Pisco only runs during rainy season, so is almost dry now. There are some minor ruins along the way. When we got higher up, the farms are all terraced - tons of work. There are some active copper mines. Big steep hills/mountains.

The church is built of adobe on an ancient base

Huaytara is a small town, but VERY nice hotel (for US$5/night) even had warmish water. Sun was very bright - it's been cloudy here for last 2 months. We walked up to the big church, which is built on ancient Mayan era walls. These walls are not adobe, but cut rock. The cuts are so perfect and straight, they looked like sawn or laser cut. After God knows how many earthquakes, you still could not slip a knife blade between the stones - incredible construction - after 500 years !!! We had a special Pachamanca dinner (lamb, fava beans, potato and camote). Absolutely scrumptious, though not served until 8:30pm. Met some of the new PCV group - great kids all. I went back to the hotel at 10 and the gang stayed for more cervezas.

Next morning as usual, I was the only early riser. Shower was slightly warm, which was nice. Found some sweet bread, papaya/orange juice and coffee for breakfast and stopped into the Internet cabina. Horrible dark, keyboard keys stuck and letters worn off and slow as molasses on a cold night. We had a good meeting, mostly getting to know the newbies and vice-versa. Then headed back home. I waited 1/2 hour for the collectivo to fill. The driver drove like a grandmother and took 1/2 hr more than the one coming up. Then, all the buses going north were full and had to find another collectivo to Chincha, where I could finally get on the Soyuz home.

Arrived home late and got up early next day to install the new water pump at Vista Alegre. Had a small delay at the hardware store for a part, then off on my trusty bike (Yes, I STILL love it) with all parts, tools and 2x2.5M pipes slung to the frame. I felt EVERY bump on the road. Sunday, so no Muni truck available. Actually, it was available but no driver. So, being a good boy, I resisted temptation and busted my butt on the bike rather than break PC policy. Harumpf. Installation went well and I reamed out the slot for the metal plate at a couple of tight spots. When all was ready, we fired up the generator (after I put wire nuts on a couple of bare wire connections in the fuse box). Pump ran great for about 30 seconds. Then the generator ran out of gas. No way to get more gas, so made a tactical retreat. Basically MISSION ACCOMPLISHED, but frustrated that the JASS didn’t have gas in the tank.

Got home MUCH faster and easier. Had a bite and then took Jenn, the new #2 at PCHQ in Lima and her family up to Cerro de Oro burial ground. Even after seeing the photos, everyone who visits there is awed at the bones and artifacts. Still stymied and puzzled at the lack of Peruvian interest in this amazing site.

An unusual morning. Someone came to the door with a message from Senora Bell. She said that her husband, Jimmy Bell has died and she wanted me to have all his Ham Radio equipment. I have no idea what I would do with all the equipment - no

time, space, etc.
Amazing that she could get a note to me. But then, "The Gringo in San Luis" is a perfectly valid address.
I only met this delightful gentleman once and am sad that I didn't get back to see him. Our meeting is described in my Note 25:

“I was also intrigued by a huge radio antenna array, which is why I went back to check this out. My curiosity led me to an attractive home behind high hedges and a massive gate. I rang the buzzer and a young man came to the gate, took a quick look at me and rushed away. A painfully long time later, an elderly man appeared. He did not seem happy to see me. Until I asked about the antenna and blurted out my radio call “KD6ZCC”. “Zulu-Charlie-Charlie” he exclaimed and beamed and threw the gate wide open.

My persistence was well rewarded by a visit with a new “Ham” radio friend, James Bell. That’s right, a Peruvian named James Bell; descended from the British family that brought Pima cotton to Peru, way back when. And who speaks near perfect Queen’s English. On air, “Jimmy” is OAA5 (oscar,alpha,alpha,five). This was originally his grandfather’s call sign – the FIFTH ever issued in Peru – and he now holds it. His antenna array is the best I’ve ever seen. We had a jolly good time, sipping gin & tonic (with REAL ICE!!) and sharing tales of ham radio. He was impressed with the half-wave 80M antenna I built in Mexico and I was impressed with his whole set-up – state-of-the art – which is housed in its own room in a VERY nice home. It was seriously hard to believe I was in Middle Nowhere, Peru. His lovely wife, Isabella, very politely listened to us yammer on and on about radio stuff and kept our glasses and tummies quite full with G&T and an amazingly good guacamole – first time I’ve ever seen it in Peru, despite the abundance of avocado. I feel like I’ve just been to another world. Jimmy now runs what is left of the family holdings in Peru. The family plantation was down near Chincha, about 30 miles south. He still grows some cotton locally, though just for “tradition” and is a partner in one of the big commercial fisheries which produces fish-meal. He doesn’t like the “snobs” in Lima and prefers a simple (but VERY comfortable) life in San Luis. I REALLY like this guy.

Not much of a bike ride, but it was certainly a great day. I am so appreciative of how the willingness to explore, to take a chance and knock on a total stranger’s gate in a foreign land, will often be richly rewarded. And that I’ve had the opportunities in my life to learn about and experience so many of the hidden worlds like ham radio, scuba, solar power, aviation, etc – which so often build an instant bond with others. This web of connections gives me enormous pleasure every day. Lately, I’m particularly grateful for all my family and friends and fellow Volunteers, who provide technical advice and support for my service here with the Corps. So much of what I do depends on channeling information from others into solutions for problems here. And in being that conduit, I get to learn all manner of new stuff. Which is nice.”

Another good expedition to the Cerro De Oro burial site this week, with the new PC #2, Jenny White, her husband Kevin and son (6) Carter, the youngest and most intrepid explorer yet. We found some extraordinary cloth samples, some 1000 yr old nicely spliced rope and a field of jasmine fragrant air-plants were the highlights. Carter was a delight – full of questions and ideas about the Huari. I always enjoy seeing that spark of curiosity and creativity in kids.

Pineapples are the new “in season” fruit here. I’d never had a really ripe pineapple, fresh from the field before Peru. They are entirely different and vastly superior to the stuff in a Dole can. The “fill-in” fruit is bananas. They are ALWAYS in season. All shapes and sizes and colors. My favorites are the small fingers and the mid-sized with orangey flesh. I had my first banana bread today. Strange that it is so uncommon, with the bounty of bananas.

A good work day with my Miguel Angel, my PCRC (regional coordinator). We went out to the Goat Farm, where the biodigester was filled with gas, close to explosion. We hooked up the storage bladder and it filled in 10 minutes. 14 days since charging the tube with shit-soup. Musta been the pig intestine the boys put in. MA was also looking to hold the next Camp ALMA – a youth camp sponsored by PCVs – to teach leadership skills to young women. The boys were HIGHLY enthusiastic and it looks like it’s a done deal. I love those guys.

Then we zipped over to the VA spring, but Eulario was in town. So, we headed up to Cerro de Oro to see the bones. The boneyard never fails to impress. No one else can fathom why there seems so little interest in investigating or preserving this area.

A couple of “cultural notes”: Most Peruvian men have little facial hair. The few attempts at moustache or beard are pretty pathetic. Rather than shave, they tend to pluck beard hairs with tweezers. This is considered perfectly acceptable behavior in public, even when driving a combi. Speaking of combis – the almost psychic ability of drivers and conductors to read the body language of folks on the side of the road ahead and KNOW whether they want on, is uncanny. The subtlest turn of shoulders or head is enough. And, (Bart Simpson fans take note) they really do say “Caramba !!” here. Google politely translates as : darn, good grief or heck. I find it more like “Ain’t that a bitch (McMurphy)”.

When I first got to Peru, I was really annoyed by the seemingly CONSTANT horn honking from just about every vehicle on the road. But, after a while, I realized there was a method to the madness. My new friend Kevin did, too, and codified the cacophony as follows: 

PERU HORNS     By Kevin Bostwick

THE CULTURE OF HONKING is particular here. I am tempted to hang my laptop out the window to record.

The "here I come" safety short-honk 
--- just to let someone moving into your space know that, indeed, you are not stopping...honk

The "I'm the taxi you are looking for" double-tap
--- walking down the street, looking content? Maybe you want a taxi?...honk-honk

The, I kid you not, "shave and a haircut" honk for extra-humorous cabbies
--- hard to resist... honk----honk-a-honk-honk---honk-honk

The "you overstepped" 3-beat honk
--- been cut off in the typical way? Lay on the horn a bit longer... hooonk

The "taxi is stopped to negotiate a fare and blocking a lane" 6-beat honk
--- it's not like the cabbie is going to care that someone is honking, but what the heck? hoooooonk

The "traffic is at a stop and I can't see what is holding things up" honk
--- just lay on the horn for however long it takes for you to feel better. hooooooooooooooooooonk

Add to this symphony the yells of the combi barkers yelling their destinations, the circa 1991 car alarms, the sirens of all urban center, and suddenly 4am can seem blissfully quiet.

From : http://bostwickwhite.blogspot.com/2012/08/pearl-of-paradise.html?spref=fb

Saturday, I’ll be teaching Bike Training to the new group of PCVs in Lima – just the ones getting bikes. Rushing back for the Kutuka music concert here in San Luis. Then Sunday long bus ride up to Trujillo to help the Princeton Engineers Without Borders build a new water system for a small town. They are long on engineers and short on construction folks. I hope to mostly be forming the smaller concrete structures.

Fiestas Patrias

Cajon practice - learning from the master

         After running fast and hard for the last 7 months, a flu bug came to visit and gave me a 3 day “stay-cation”, right after my visit to Ica for a Regional Meeting. I presented a Progress Report on my work thus far in site. I’m actually a little disappointed with these meetings – they appear to be mostly an opportunity for the youngsters to get together and “party” (drink). Even with an 11am starting time, only 2 PCVs managed to be on-time and many never showed due to a “long night” before. Plans for the rest of the day included the grand opening of a new bar in town and another “pre-opening” party before that. Hard for me to watch these really caring and bright kids waste so much time on a counter-productive activity.

Camila in parade dress

A flurry of Princetonians – My friend John Cardenas ’89 at USAID gave me a lead on some funding that might be available to help preserve and protect the Cerro de Oro burial site. Bill Farrell ’77 is coming to town with the Wheelchair Foundation to donate some much needed wheelchairs around Peru. And the undergraduates from Princeton Engineers Without Borders are building a water system in northern Peru. Orange all over the place.

There were parties all over town each and every night this week – Fiestas Patrias – kinda like 4^th of July on steroids. Parades and (of course) bombs – all    week     long. I did get to speak with a professor from Lima about the Cerro de Oro burial ground. He confirmed it was late Huari (800-1100AD). I guess this site has been known for some time. But the looting is unprecedented.

Plenty of dancing on this parade float

Slowing things down even more is a strike by the national postal service Serpost – such as it is. With no home delivery and very little mail of any kind, the strike is largely unnoticed by the average Peruvian. Were it not for the steady stream of packages for us Gringos, I doubt they’d stay in business.

My favorite part of the celebrations was a Cajon concert and dance by the young kids that have been training with the Old Masters. This dedicated and highly enthusiastic group of 7^th & 8^th graders played as well as any pros in their bright costumes. The young ladies had some dance moves that were , frankly, provocative beyond their years. The instruments were pure organic – the cajon started out as a modified packing crate and a cow jaw and stick – just doesn’t get more organic than that. My friend and most excellent Socio Angel Garcia made it all happen. I’m really grateful to work with someone who cares so deeply about seeing our little town move forward. In fact, there was a recent newspaper article on corruption in Canete Province. Of the 16 Districts, San Luis was one of only 4 said to be free of serious corruption.

And yet another para-military parade of little kids and big flags. It is nice to hear all the children singing the National Hymn – loud. It reminds me of the French anthem – a rousing march, but with less bloody lyrics. They even know the words to the San Luis song. The parade was led by some of the local lads who have just graduated from the regional police academy. This is a big deal around here, as police and military are well respected jobs. There was also a big banner proclaiming San Luis’ success in the recent math and language exams : Math was about 25% passing grade and language at 40%. This seemed low to me, but, it was well above the National average.

As I wandered among the crowd, happily munching on anticucho (heart) kabob and chaclo (corn-on-the-cob), I realized how very comfortable I feel here. This is my kind of town. Like Elwood Dowd in “Harvey”, I always seem to have a marvelous time – wherever I am, whomever I’m with. I’m grateful for that.

Amir dressed up for parade

Biodigester # 2 = Gassing Up

Biodigester # 2 is finished !!

Gas storage bag with over-pressure valve

Digester tube filling with GAS

Home-made auxiliary storage bag

We kicked butt at the Farm (again). Finished both the digester and Cocina #1 and 1/2 of Cocina #2 (industrial model). I really enjoy working with the family - all enthusiastic and interested in everything. After, we had a marvelous meal at a table for 18 - roasted camote (sweet potato) especially fine. Reminded me of my family meals of my youth - there were 9, plus always some extra friends/family. Constant cross chatter. Pleased that I can chat so easily in Espanol. My head used to hurt when I talked/listened for more than a few minutes. I love working like I'm 30, but know I'll be paying in the AM. Also noted that the bike ride to/from “work” seems to pass faster every trip. In fact, a shower and nap seem quite in order.

I had one of those “coincidental” moments on the way out. I’d picked up 10M of clear plastic for the digester cover and the flimsy plastic bag broke about half way out. Just as I was calculating how to transport this awkward bicycle load, along came my buddy Jhony in his moto-taxi, picked me up and delivered same to Santa Barbara. This sort of thing seems to happen with increasing frequency. I’m grateful that the Universe always seems to know exactly when I need a little assist and instantly delivers. Or maybe it’s just coincidence.

I love it that I see the same ladies in shopping at the tienda every morning, when I go in to get my pancitas for breakfast and salad fixin’s. Daily marketing is the norm here. Most folks don’t have refrigeration (nor does the market), so that daily trip becomes a social event where news and gossip – mostly gossip, is shared. It takes the sting out of waiting my turn.

Peruvian gals are mostly chubby, or as we used to call it “pleasantly plump. Why they choose to wear skin tight jeans, which merely displace the chubbiness still eludes me. But, I should also note a distinct lack of obesity, as well.

 Yet another patron saint is being celebrated and I got invited to a "party". Well, really just a bunch of guys sitting in a circle, passing a glass and beer bottles around. I've gotten pretty good at the "quick wipe" of the glass and the "short pour" of beer. Made my exit after buying a round. No one objects if you leave right after buying. They boys get pretty obnoxious as they get drunk - which is, of course, the goal every time. Alcohol is just not my drug of choice. PC encourages us to "never say no" to invites so we'll be better "integrated" into the community, but I'm pretty integrated out of this practice. Fernando always promises it will be muy divertido. He always lies.

We had two days of “rain” this week. Well, not really rain – “condensate of marine layer” – kind of a light drizzle. Not a fun bike ride to/from the JASS mtg in the drizzle (and home in the dark, carrying a flashlight in one hand. And no real decisions made. Peruvians like to talk A LOT. It sounds like a huge family quarrel, but there's not usually much emotion behind it. Shrieking is just their way. It was hard to adjust to that. One group wants to have the chlorination - they think it's modern and civilized. The other group says the water come from a pure well (true) and the chlorine is not natural and is bad for you (also kinda true). And they don't want to pay the extra $$. My proposal / compromise was to do system cleanings every six months and chlorinate the water once a week. It's not "by the book" but it's what seemed popular. And probably just fine IMO. One lady said that I only proposed using chlorine because I was going to profit from it. WOW - My buddies in the JASS jumped all over her, shouting in her face that I was here as a Volunteer to help and not getting anything out of it, plus some other nasty stuff. I felt well protected. 

I had some papas rellenas for dinner from a place down the street - potato stuffed with a filling of mixed vegetable and meat (usually heart or liver - two Peruvian favorites) and an anticucho - kabob of heart meat. We generally think of "meat" as muscle only, but these folks eat the whole animal. The only part I really can't handle is tripe - intestine. They say it's good when fried, but they generally put it in soups, where the texture is.....ahhh. Well it's just nasty. That's all.

Three days were spent accumulating the materials for the security cover for the Vista Alegre spring house. In the US, with access to a vehicle, this would have been a half day slam dunk.

August is shaping up to be a busy month. I’ll be a bicycle workshop to the incoming group of PCVs, hosting my friend Brian from Amazonas when he visits to learn about Cocinas. I’ll also be travelling back up north to Trujillo area to work with the Princeton Engineers Without Borders building a new water system. The big Black Music and Dance Fest will be in San Vicente and San Luis will host its own cajon workshop.

Photo Gallery of Cerro de Oro burial grounds

Some photos from a 1000 year old Wari burial site, horribly disturbed by grave robbers.
This needs to stop !!

Skull City

Destruction by grave robbers

An ancient Wari pouch

An embroidered strap for carrying water jugs

Piece of a very LARGE pot

beautiful bowl

loincloth with pattern and COLOR

intricate cloth pattern - the Wari were master weavers

Colorful ceramic pattern

Precious figurine - worn as a pendant

These airplants provide beauty to the Cerro

Mummified foot - Wari were smal people

A mummy hand

Cerro de Oro - Google maps image - you can see the outlines of buildings, roads , etc - burial area is low center

1000 yr old slingshot

Ancient thread on spindle

Ingrid found this perfect spindle for spinning thread

Perfectly preserved corn from 1000 years - found in a ceramic jar

Some of the cloth is so fine, you can see through it

This head was the mouth of a bottle

Ceramic spike used to plant seeds

Biodigester # 2 Finds a Home

The Duenas brothers dug the ditch in one day

The whole family helps inflate the biodigester

The inflated bag goes in the ditch

A visit to the Goat Research Center in Santa Barbara brought a good result. The facility is also home to the local yogurt and cheese (feta) production. I’ve been buying their superb yogurt for some time now.

The place is extremely well run – clean and organized – built on the site of an old school, so a good teaching and demonstration site. The Duenas brothers, Gaston & Avelino & Godo are bright and innovative. Their goat milking stand is a fine example of creativity. The raised platform makes milking far more ergonomic and sanitary. I’m planning to build biodigester #2 there and may also do a Cocina and solar pumping demonstration there. Goat poop will require some extra soaking, but two large porkers can provide a good manure base.

And build a biodigester we did !!  In one week, we got the trench dug, ends built, tube inflated, in the trench and is filling with goat and pig poop soup as I write this. Certainly the fastest digester construction on record. I cannot express my total admiration, respect and gratitude to the Duenas brothers. They are the smartest, hardest-working, most innovative Peruvian family I’ve ever met. They’ve taught me tons about adobe construction, goat breeding and local history. The conversation ranges all over the map. While discussing DC vs AC power, I mentioned Thomas Edison – “Thomas ALVA Edison” interjected Godo. And to top it off, one of the farm workers is named Goyo !! First Gregorio I’ve met in Peru. There is a special bond here between “tocayos” and ours is no exception.

Oh, and while we were finishing the biodigester, we built an improved cookstove. The construction was hindered a bit by a frisky little pup named Odie and supervised by the adorable 2 yr-old Tonio.

This is my ninth Cocina and I’ve never had so much fun or felt so much joy from my co-workers. Running two crews took me back to my contractor days. Also pleased that this is the third Cocina built without Peace Corps funds and materials. This is the kind of sustainability that we all strive for.

Arriving home, I was pondering what to eat for dinner when a lady from down the street miraculously appeared at the door with a huge plate of smoked chicken, sweet corn and camote (yam). I fixed her door latch a couple of weeks ago. When I took the plate back, I was forced to consume some rare “tres leches” cake. This stuff literally melts in your mouth. I love being a part of a community that does for each other.

Revisited the Vista Alegre spring box to take measurements. On the way home, I passed several asparagus fields. I always think of my Gampa Bacon when I do. He had a beautiful patch in his big garden. For many years he sold it for extra income. I learned a lot from that wonderful and wise man, about gardening, concrete and life from him. We ate asper-grass every day at his house during the season. I still love it. The local fields have all gone to seed and are ready to cut the ferns and let the edible sprouts emerge. I found a few rogue shoots and had them in lunch salad.

Coming home from Canete, I sat next to some energetic high school lads. We chatted for a bit before they asked the inevitable question of where I was from. They all guessed Venezuela, which either means that Venezuelans speak really bad Spanish or mine is getting good. But interesting that my accent sounds non-American. Once I fessed up to Estados Unidos origin, the questions got non-stop. I’m always amazed at how much other people know about the US and how very curious they are about all things EEUU.

I was witness to the biggest funeral thus far in San Luis. Musta been 400 people. The procession went on FOREVER and blocked traffic in all directions. Two bands, both were predictably bad. Good news was that all the flower ladies sold out completely. Though I still wish folks would buy flowers for the living, who would surely appreciate them more.