HIV/STD Education Program Photos

Photos from the PEPFAR funded program, with Gloria Yaya OB/GYN nurse at the local health post

Gloria has the patience of a saint and great teaching skills. Now she has the tools, too. Here she is testing a youg man on his condom technique

The kids in the class made a street mural for World Aids Day

Gloria learned great activities at the PEPFAR training

The graduating class of HIV leaders

Playing HIV Jeopardy at the Health Fair

Presenting HIV Awards at a school assembly

Special T-shirts to promote HIV awareness

Communion

Camila's First Communion (and mine)

Just couldn't get her to smile

Attending a First Communion mass was done out of obligation. I just couldn’t say no to that precious, pleading little face. So, I went. Usually, Peruvians show up tardy to most any event, it’s called “Hora Peruana”. But, in this case, the church was packed well before the appointed hour, meaning I would stand at the back of a warm, windowless, tin-roofed temporary structure, inside the fallen, ancient church, until the new church is complete. The one redeeming moment was when I pressed forward for a photo and Camila squealed “Look, it’s my friend Goyo !”, adding proudly, to her friends, “He’s from the United States.” The rest of the hour and a half was a rapid fire agenda of processions, recessions, incantations and too little music. The speed was both astonishing and merciful, as the main purpose seemed to get done with the affair. Kind of like bad sex.

The pachamanca afterwards more than compensated for the earlier discomfort. To begin with, it was wonderful to see “my kids” – Camila, Santi and Amir. I’ve been missing the rascals since their parents moved to Lima and farmed them out to local relatives. Sadly, they’ll be moving to Lima themselves at the end of the month. And then there was the feast itself. . Pachamanca is a traditional Peruvian feast, cooked in an earth pit. A clam bake of sorts. Wood is set into the hole in a very particular pattern and covered by clean round stones. The fire is lit and heats the rocks and all the food is carefully placed – again in a very specific way, so that all the ingredients will be ready simultaneously. The food is covered with multiple layers of washed banana leaves, then burlap sacks and then about 6” of dirt to insulate. A cross with flowers is the traditional “topping-off” ornament.

After an insufferable 2.5 hours, the dirt is scraped away, burlap and leaves peeled back to reveal a steamy, perfectly cooked buffet. This feast was : pork, chicken (wrapped in mint), lamb, potato, sweet potato, corn and fava beans. And it was all succulent and delicious. Beer, wine, pisco and good cheer flowed at all quarters. And I waddled home – an over-fed, but very happy camper.

My friend, Popi, patriarch of the Duenas family at the goat farm, mercifully passed away last night at a hospital in Lima. It was a sad visit with Avelino this morning remembering this wonderful man. He suffered a stroke last week, that left him ½ paralyzed and speechless. At 87, he had a long and rich life, surrounded by loving family to the end. Until his stroke, he worked in the fields every day – it was his joy, caring for the herd of goats. When I saw him in the hospital last week, his eyes said he was ready to go. Thankfully, he got his wish and was not kept artificially alive, as might have happened in the US.

This is part of the Peace Corps experience. We are in country long enough, that we become part of the community – feeling both their joys and sorrows. The people we serve are not anonymous faces in a distant land. They are my friends and family – people that I share meals with and look in the eye. I would not have it any other way.

Gloria and I presented awards for the AIDS program at the Colegio in front of the morning “formation”. It really is a formation, where kids march onto the parade grounds and do military style movements to the barked orders of an ex-Army colonel. The kids have worked hard and attended after-school sessions to complete before Navidad and summer vacation. (remember I’m in the southern hemisphere).

And the playground project is inching along – jungle gym and swing set complete, work started on see-saw. Looking good, so far.

It will be another Christmas – Navidad without the hoopla. Very few people here put up lights or any other decoration. There is little frantic shopping for gifts. There will be MANY small parties, all featuring a very light fruitcake called pantone. Last year, I was certain I would OD on the stuff, tasty as it is. The cake is washed down with chicha morada, a traditional drink made from blue corn. And there will be numerous processions of adorable moppets to the church. I really like this low-key approach to Christmas.

Passages

Dear Cristina, who sold me peanuts every day, is gone

The shrine to "Popi" - his ever present planters hat and boots

It’s been a week of passages, with a Farewell Party for Dan and Carrie, married PCVs who live(ed) in the Canete area. They were a big part of my request to be posted here in Canete and I was not wrong. They have been a huge technical and personal resource for me this last year. And dear friends. Two of America’s best and brightest, who cared enough about this World to give two years of their young lives to help improve life for the residents of Nuevo Imperial. The sadness of their departure was tempered by welcoming two new Volunteers – Ingrid and Kate – both environmental PCVs. And so diverse. Kate is right out of college, while Ingrid has eclipsed me as the oldest PCV in Peru. The constant parade of Hellos and Good-Byes is reminiscent of my time at Esalen, where I learned that behind every Good-Bye, is a Hello, just waiting to happen.

Another, more final, Good-Bye to my dear (Mamita) Christina, who died rather suddenly this week. (photo attached) She sat on the corner every afternoon, selling peanuts, popcorn and roasted fava beans. Her welcoming smile and warm eyes was a daily lift to my spirit. My life is richer for having known this sweet, kind woman.

Mi “Popi”, father and patriarch at the goat farm, suffered a stroke this week, while out tending the goats. He is 87 and still doing manual chores around the farm. Visiting him in hospital was difficult. As I looked into his eyes, I saw a painful plea for freedom from his spirit – normally so vibrant, now laid low and half paralyzed. I remember the same look from my Mom, days before she died of cancer. And that same helpless feeling inside – not able to help.

And so, it’s back to “work”. My brilliant community partners kept everything rolling along during my 3 weeks absence for vacation, teaching, training and Mid-Service med checks. Vidal, our trusty and innovative welder has been sawing and welding the jungle gym and swing. Next are the teeter-totter and then slide ladder. He’s been slowed somewhat by his move to a new house and shop. Gloria and Esther have been moving along well with the HIV program. The kids did some awesome street art for World AIDS Day – photos to follow. The biodigester technology is really catching on. Will plans to build one with a cuy (guinea pig) farmer at his site. Yes, we eat them here, though I can’t say I’m a big fan. At the goat farm, Avelino was proud as punch to show-off his digester and explain all the details. His level of enthusiasm and knowledge will ensure the sustainability of this technology long after I’m gone.

On that note, Dan & Carrie’s departure brought to mind my own service “mortality” – a reminder that I have less than a year left – in reality only about 10 months. There is still a lot to do here – another water system has asked for my help with cleaning, sanitation and chlorination, more students and adults to train in the various technologies and promoting the “pico” solar systems. As with Death itself, I am grateful for that small voice that whispers in my ear “Carpe Diem…Carpe Omnis Diem”.

Lab work results showed my human suit is functioning well within design specs, free of any parasites and viruses. A return trip to Lima was needed to remove stitches form my dental work (yes, the cavity was THAT big). Dental issues well resolved. Feeling fit and frisky. Very much so.

One of the new Volunteers got mugged in nearby Imperial, on a busy street in broad daylight. A guy showed a knife and then pushed her to the ground, running off with her bag. He got little money and a cell phone and bank card that are now unusable. Imperial is the only creepy city in our area. Such a crime is unheard of and unthinkable in my little town or any of the rural villages. Another reason I don’t care for cities. She was shook up, but rebounding like a trooper. And she had very cleverly stashed a cash reserve at her house. It’s especially sad when we who have come to help are robbed or attacked. Of course, they don’t know that. We look like any other (rich) Gringo – a nice fat, easy target. And, she is getting full support and comfort from all of us in the Canete area.

Her home site is a perfectly safe little town, just outside of nasty Imperial. The huge plaza made me envious of the luxury of open space, which San Luis lacks. They’ve got a great playground for the kids and even a superb skate-board ramp system.

Mid -Service Conference

The Peru WATSAN training group - Who's the old guy in the back ??

It was a busy week in Lima, running hither and yon between medical and dental exams, appointments and lab tests. We were lovingly and expertly guided through the process by the outstanding PCMO medical staff. I’m pleased to report that, other than a monster cavity, everything is where it should be and operating well within tolerances. I’ve shed about 24 pounds during my time in Peru – drilled two extra holes in my belts and happily suffering from “baggy-pants” syndrome. A week with hot showers and excellent, albeit “pricey” food is always a treat.

It was wonderful to spend time with my fellow WATSAN training group. We are officially now called WASH, but a Water & Sanitation PCV by any name smells just as sweet. A close bond developed during training and it was sweet to be with “the gang” again. The PC staff at the Center in Lima was just as welcoming as ever. The place really does feel like home-away-from-home. I must comment that the event was marred by some adolescent behavior and hung-over tardiness by a few of the group. While it might be written off to youthful exuberance and inexperience, it reaffirms my commitment to promotion of “older” Volunteers after I return to the States.

A PowerPoint slide show of first year service projects is attached, as I presented to the group.

click here to see Progress Report 

 In addition, I’ve enjoyed two vacation trips – exploring the jungle and deep desert of Peru. It truly has been a great ride so far. I have been blessed to work with outstanding community partners, very helpful Municipality, PCVs and staff – and to live in a comfortable site with great infrastructure. And most of all, I give Thanks to all my wonderful family and friends, who have supported me and CHEERed me on through this extraordinary adventure. Next year could be even better.

A really sweet treat was when “Mama Kathleen” our training guide and guardian presented us with letters we had written to ourselves a year ago. I got a little teary, as I read a letter from the “me” of the past. Always nice to hear from a good friend.

Giving Thanks

Steel tubing arrives at welder Vidal's yard

Vidal cuts and welds a swing set

Some of the playground parts are ready

The see-saw is taking shape

A busy week – keeping my projects moving ahead, distancing myself from a pleasant, but personally disappointing vacation, training the new group of Volunteers and being trained to serve as a PCV Warden.

The Playgrounds project is moving along, albeit slowly. Vidal, our welder has been moving his entire household and workshop to a new property next door to his old one. The move is now complete and he has 3-phase power, which will boost his welding capabilities. Most of the metal tube has been cut and the design is looking good. All the used tires are in place and Angel got two rolls of used fire hose from our friends at the Bomberos (fire-house), which we’ll be using to construct swings.

My wonderful partners in the HIV/STD prevention programs have been keeping everything on track in my absence. I’m actually delighted that they only need me for logistics. This is not exactly my forte, especially teaching a very sensitive subject in Spanish. The great part is that they have access to a vast array of PC materials and teaching practices. The dynamic program, full of movement and interactive learning is a positive change from “teaching-as-usual”. Gloria and Esther have embraced this full on.

The school exchange program, between kids at my Colegio Mixto and a classroom in Commerce City, CO, delayed by the Peru Teachers Strike, is now moving forward with question/answer exchanges – thanks to Beth Ramey, my dedicated counter-part in the States. I attach the first exchange, as the exchange was pretty interesting.

I travelled east of Lima – out the Rimac River Valley – to Santa Eulalia to train the new Peru 20 group of PCVs. Due to a security issue, they were holed up in the same retreat facility that I enjoyed for my first two days in Peru, over a year ago. I presented my new Soapy Tap (liquid soap dispenser), the “Bottle Bulb” technology, simple room upgrades, personal advice, and did a bike use and maintenance training for the group. I was struck by how different this group is from my training group. These folks seemed much more mature and serious compared to Peru 18, boding well for PC Peru service. Their questions and comments were thoughtful and gratifying. The group was sworn-in yesterday at the US Ambassador’s residence in Lima.

The next day was back to the PC Center in Lima for Warden training. The PCV Wardens are the front line in the event of emergency. I will be responsible for the safety and coordination of the 7 other PCVs in the province of Lima. Peace Corps has the priority of keeping PCVs safe, and the advance planning and organization is extensive and should serve well in the event of an actual emergency. I was proud to be selected to serve in this capacity.

Thanksgiving was celebrated in Lima and started with a dental appointment. PC medical staff and service are extraordinary. We are served quickly and well – never waiting for appointments – with 100% coverage. Jen White, the new Assistant Peru Director and her husband Kevin, generously opened their beautiful home to over 20 PCVs. It was wonderful to celebrate my favorite holiday – the Giving of Thanks – in such a warm and loving place, with other Americans. The food was way over the top – every possible Thanksgiving food and treat imaginable was represented. I was given the honor of carving the 27 pound turkey, which was cooked to perfection. An amazing selection of American beer and wine added to the CHEER. My only regret was not reciting Alice’s Restaurant – it was my first skip in many years. Many of the youngsters had never heard of it and I needed to catch a late bus home to my beloved pueblo.

Two busy days of meetings, laundry, email catch-up and Prairie Home and I’m back on the road to Lima. This week, I’ll be getting Mid-Service medical and dental exams with my dear WATSAN training group and doing some further training.

Vacation Photo Gallery

This plant produces bird poop - guano - for use as fertilizer

By the Canete River

The beach at Cerro Azul

The ancient adobe fort at Ungara

Loading dock on bird poop island

Incahuasi ruins

Next to one of the Nasca Lines

Tropical penguins live on the islands

A seal sunning

And sleeping

Desert Vacation

Aqueduct in Nasca

Ancient candelabra form on hillside in Paracas

Caves on the Ballenas Islands

One of the Nasca Lines from the air

Peru takes on an entirely different face when seen as a tourist, rather than a resident. Driving in a private car, with AC and staying in nice hotels with hot water and full amenities and hanging out in restaurants where you are as likely to hear English or German as Spanish is a real treat, but far from the world of 99% of Peruvians. But, that’s what I did last week. It was called VACATION !!

The first treat was visiting one of the many fig ice cream stands on the side of the Pan Am Highway, south of Lima. I’ve speeded past these stands many times on the bus, but could only yearn to sample this home-made helado. It was everything and more that I had imagined. Rich and creamy, sticky with fig, cold and smooth. This will only make future drive-bys in the bus more painful.

A stop in the seaside port of Paracas featured a boat trip out to the Balesteras islands, home to the famous Humboldt penguins – the only penguins living in tropical latitudes. They look and act just like their arctic cousins, but apparently spend more time in the chilly Humboldt Current that flows from the Antarctic. The tourist boats are packed with about 30 tourists each, including many Americans. They speed the 20km out to the islands with huge outboards and an English speaking tour guide.

The islands are teeming with life. The abundance of fish draws not only the penguins, but pelicans, terns, gulls, albatross and sea lions.

The birds are in such profusion that their guano (aka bird shit) has been harvested for generations as fertilizer. Housing and processing platforms, where the guano is cleaned of rocks and feathers, dot the islands. The smell of bird shit dominates the air, and the islands are quite literally covered in white guano and nesting birds. The guano is harvested only in the non-nesting season, when gangs of men come to live on the islands – scooping up the poop into canvas bags, taking them to the cleaning racks, then loaded onto transport ships.

In addition, the pounding ocean has carved spectacular grottos and caves and arches, through which crystal blue green water surges. The noise of growling sea lions and screeching birds and pounding waves is quite overwhelming. The trip also passes a unique glyph called the Candelabra. This embellished trident was cut into a sandy hillside. No one knows the when or how or why of the symbol. It is truly remarkable that it has withstood hundreds of years (at least) of rain and wind, though the glyph is on the leeward side and it rains less than 1” per year. Paracas is also an oil and gas port, with huge storage facilities and a fleet of tug boats which dwarf the small fishing punts that dot the touristy waterfront.

The Oasis, near Ica, is a small (2 acre) lake, smack in the middle of towering sand dunes. It is as remarkable as it is beautiful, though highly populated by ex-pats and tourists, who enjoy dune buggy rides and sand-boarding.

Heading further away from the coast, into the deep central Peruvian desert, all wildlife, plants and trees disappear, except for the hardy and thorny Huarango trees which have been planted along the side of the Pan Am Hwy, which crosses the sandy, tan landscape like a big black snake. Along the way are little outposts of humanity – a single straw hut, in the middle of “nowhere”, challenges the mind to calculate the difficulty and purpose of such a hermitic life.

The large desert city of Nasca is a broad, expansive patch of green, set amid towering stark mountains and empty desert. I was struck by the unusual surface of this desert – not sand, but a hard ancient ocean floor, littered with small darkish rocks, ranging is size from softball to pebbles. What puzzles me is how these rocks got scattered so evenly over the desert floor? This geologic coincidence is what made the famous Nasca Lines possible. When the rocks are scraped into windrows, they form a highlighting edge to the lighter desert floor revealed below.

The Lines, of course, are among the great mysteries of our World. Their origin and purpose are unknown. Miles and miles of perfectly straight lines cris-crossing the desert floor are punctuated by primitive, but exquisite figures – monkey, humming bird and others. I absolutely marvel at the construction – at the enormous effort that went into creating these monuments. I can understand the ability to produce the long straight lines, by simply sighting down the line. But, the curves and circles baffle me – how could these be made without guidance from the air or really good GPS? Some say they are landing markers for extra-terrestrials, as they can only be fully appreciated from the air.

The other explanation posited for the lines is that they marked the routes of the many underground rivers which flow under the desert floor. The ancients tapped into these abundant water sources with access structures which spiral down into the ground. At the bottom of each spiral flows a river of crystal clear water, which brought life to the area, in addition to the river, which flows only when rain is falling in the distant Andes mountains. The Spirals are constructed entirely of round river rock, with no mortar. The fact that they have withstood countless earthquakes is a testament to the engineering of the ancient builders.

A nearby patch of edible cactus provided a surprise. The sides of the cacti are covered with what looks like a white powdery mold. In fact, they are a collection of small pellet-like bits, which contain a deep purple-red dye, which is still used today.

It was wonderful to have some time away from my beloved San Luis to explore just a few of the marvels of Peru. And just as good to get back to work on the Playgrounds and other projects.

Day of the Dead

These kids all provide cleaning services

A cleaner in action

Flowers everywhere - all wil go on grave sites

Conversing with the ancestors

The week started with a BANG – literally. I was riding a combi into town, when a tire blew – con mucho gusto. Women screamed like it was the end of the World – they also wail pretty good at funerals. We all had to catch other combis. Luckily, the guy was right near a tire shop, though he was still on the side of the road 3 hours later. After that, I started noticing that ALL the combi tires are in pretty pathetic shape. I only saw one with tires that would pass inspection in the States.

Funds for the Playground project arrived, so construction can begin in earnest. Included was the final list of 28 Donors – if your name was on it – Sincere Thanks from me, the Town and the Kids. I have a fair number of friends, who would by most standards be considered wealthy. Of that group, only one contributed – so much for “trickle down” economics…..

One of the first Playground tasks was to pay for the slide bodies, which are only sold in Lima. The purchase process is just that – a process. First you say you want to buy, then the company issues a formal “presupuesto”, which you take to their bank to pay. Next, the company confirms payment with their bank and ships the goods via bus to the nearest terminal, with a code for retrieval. This time, payment came with a lesson in Peruvian security.

One cannot avoid noticing the profusion and over-abundance of security here in Peru. Every bank is secured by at least two or three armed National Police outside and a few more security guards inside – all armed and wearing flak vests. Many stores are also guarded. As I entered the bank to pay for the Playground slides, I immediately acquired TWO armed escorts, with holsters open and hands on pistols. When I turned to look at them with a questioning face, they merely pointed to my bag. It seems the bag I was carrying, with a shovel handle sticking out of it looked “suspicious”. When I offered to let them search it, they just shook their heads. Apparently, personal privacy is much more sacred here than in the US – they can’t search until after the crime is committed. It made for a long, nervous wait. But, I certainly understand why bank robberies are unheard of here. Especially since private guns are illegal.

I’ve always been a Halloween Humbug. The cheesy, scary costumes, vandalism, candy begging and senseless mutilation of good, edible pumpkins have never made a bit of sense to me. So, I was delighted to be spared even a hint of that distained holiday this year. Instead, I enjoyed a  “Dia de los Muertos” Day of the Dead, on November 1^st. The entire day was a spirited, heart full and touching celebration, bringing thousands to pilgrimage to the big cemetery across the street. The flower stand ladies were selling hand-over-fist and all sold out their entire stocks by about 5 pm. In addition, street vendors and make-shift restaurants lined the streets in all directions. In the Plaza, the church offered an outstanding buffet lunch for a very reasonable contribution, while various bands and singers performed and beer and Pisco flowed.

Inside the cemetery, masses were held all day long, attended by FAR more folks than I’ve ever seen at the church. A legion of young boys, each carrying a water bucket and rag, sold their cleaning services to the steady stream of visitors, who arrived via the long entry walk. All of the memorials got a good spring cleaning – glass was cleaned, marble polished and candles and flowers replaced. The throngs arrived in cars, buses, moto-taxis and on foot, bearing gifts of flowers, candles, icons and food to place on the crypts of departed relatives. Family groups often sat in front of the monuments, taking turns speaking about (or to) the dead. The emotion was heartfelt. I was particularly touched by an older man, standing in front of his mother’s crypt, tears streaming down his face as he spoke audibly and passionately.

By sunset, the fresh flowers had sold-out and vendors were down to plastic flowers, but the constant ebb and flow of pilgrims continued. Even more food vendors filled the street, which has thankfully been returned to relatively normal after the installation of new water and sewer lines. A somber candle-lit procession, painfully slow, with really out-of-tune music, concluded the day on a beautiful, twinkling note.

The concept of devoting this much effort to the dead is very cultural. You only have to look to the nearby ancient burial grounds at Cerro de Oro to see millions of yards of fine cloth, pottery, fishing nets and floats and mummification that were buried with the dead to see the connection. While I am more inclined to honoring and giving flowers to the living, Day of the Dead is certainly a more meaningful celebration than Halloween. A delightful and devout blend of carnival and remembrance.

Playgrounds update : Slides are now in-hand – stored at the Muni warehouse. Steel tube (2” and 1” tube) purchased and delivered to Vidal, our welder. He’s excited to have all this work and to be doing a very visible project for the Muni. I am really fortunate to have great support from my Town and access to the new pick-up truck. I could not accomplish near as much, so quickly without it. Many PCVs do not enjoy such a pleasure. Amo a mi pueblo !!

A Wedding

The weather has, at long last, broken. The overcast days of winter have given way to the sunny skies of spring – only a month late. Everyone has been commenting about the strange weather – the rainy season has also started early in the mountains. A mild El Nino is happening and will be full blown, a la 1998, next year.

A Sunday bike ride took me to Jimmy Bell’s house – more like estate – out in the fields. He was the wonderful old British gentleman and Ham radio operator I met last spring, who died in August. His wife, Isabella seems to have moved back to their place in Lima. I left her a note declining her very kind offer to take all of Jimmy’s radio gear. On the way home, I stopped by a plastic tent, where the ladies were packing green beans for export and talked them into selling me a kilo. Then, hit a road-side stand with the FIRST mangoes of the season and some sweet corn.  That , my friends, is lunch. I am so very grateful to live in this gorgeous valley of fresh produce. Pepinos are coming soon – kind of a cross between a melon and a cucumber. I never quite know what I will find, but it is always local, fresh and delicious.

Another superb dinner at ex-pat Helen’s house – meatloaf, smashed ‘taters, carrots and cheesecake. I brought some of those long, skinny balloons and made animals, hats with the kids. It’s a bit like a trip back to the US for a few hours.

I am delighted to report that, thanks to generous contributions by so many of you, the Children’s Playgrounds project has been fully funded. Thanks to all who donated. Now, on to buying materials and construction. Meanwhile, the Parents Assn has already started clearing the sites. I am grateful to have their support and the support of the Muni. I’m really excited that the little kids will now have a nice place to play. Hopefully, the town will see the benefit and popularity and replicate the plan in other parts of town.

My first Peruvian wedding was….well….interesting. It was the family down the street, where we planted the pilot Poinciana tree that got smashed in the recent street construction. I got invited the day of, which seemed a little odd. The family was out decorating the front of the house and street, including balloons and pennants strung across the street. Even if you didn’t get the directions or address quite right – anybody could find this house. The family owns an enclosed, empty yard next to the house, which is rented out for parties of various sorts. This too was festively decorated with pennants and balloons and flowers and a huge shrine/alter, featuring an enormous painting of a very white Jesus.

The wedding was at 3, but by 1pm there were drinking circles formed in the street and in the “party hall”. Fernando, never one to miss a party or other drinking opportunity dragged me out to partake. I’m really not all that fond of alcohol, and even less so of drinking circles – a Peruvian institution. They are, as the name implies, a circle of (almost always) men, who pass a beer bottle and a glass from hand to hand. Disease vector considerations aside, the form also means that no one sips on a drink. When your turn comes you are expected to pour, chug, shake the glass out and pass bottle and glass quickly, lest the other participants become dehydrated due to your sloth. I’ve started bring my own glass, which is generally considered rude, but I seem to get away with it by coughing a few times and saying I have a cold. Also, I’m a Gringo. For all of the above reasons, I try to avoid these affairs. I’ve developed to art of “short-pour”, only splashing some beer- mostly foam – into my glass and shooting it back. Although in this case, Fernando foiled my technique by rudely grabbing the end of the bottle and tipping in some extra beer.

Most of the talk in the circle was about the bride’s possibly pregnant status. She was 16 – some said 15, in any case a little young most said. They also postulated that she looked a little fat, which applies to 95% of the “muffin-top” teens here. Also, the wedding was not in church, which seemed reasonable since the church is in ruins, with a tarp for a roof – a new church is under construction - and the family owns a nice event hall.

The ceremony ran late, as most events here seem to do. They even call it – somewhat proudly – La Hora Peruana. I’m told that during the war with Ecuador, the Peruvians actually won a battle because they showed up late and surprised their punctual opponents. By the time the ceremony got underway, most of the guests were already quite fortified. There were a couple of things that seemed odd, though I’m always willing to bend to and respect the cultural differences. The first of was that the bride walked behind her father instead of at his side, which I was later told is an acceptable option, especially given the very narrow aisle that was available. More telling were the bride and groom’s faces – they both had expressions that were somewhere between Bambi-caught-in-the headlights and sheer-utter-terror. In fact, the only two people in the wedding party who were smiling were the best-man and maid-of-honor. This only added to the pregnancy postulations from earlier.

The ceremony was mercifully brief and guests returned to the drinking tables quickly. A very nice “chicharon” (deep fried pork) dinner was served and wine and Pisco (a distinctly Peruvian beverage, distilled from fermented grapes – un-aged brandy) was added to the mix. The dancing part was somewhat unnerving, as every time I started to dance, everyone around me stopped to watch. Being the only Gringo in town – does have its down sides.

Training the Newbies

This marks the midpoint of my Peace Corps service. In some ways, it seems like I just got here, until I reflect on all the amazing activities, adventures, sights, sounds and smells that I’ve experienced here. They say you get what you put in to any endeavor. But, this is one gig where you get about 150% of what you put in.

The bag was just unpacked from the jungle adventure, when I jumped right back in to the groove I call life in San Luis. 14 new Water & Sanitation Volunteers were headed my way to be trained and fed. It is a smaller group than my training group – Peace Corps has had its budget cut. (don’t even get me started on how our nation can cut the budget for Peace and Friendship, while spending ever more on wars and killing) They are generally older and more serious than my group – no prima-dona dilatants here – and several are married.

We visited my house and saw a “typical” PCV site room – though no such thing exists. I showed off several of my improvements, including the newly invented “Soapy Tap” soap dispenser. Then we went out to La Quebrada – scene of the recent  Cat Festival, where JASS president Luis proudly showcased the all-new well house, pump, chlorine gas injection system and back-up generator. After that, we drove out to the Cerro de Oro burial ground, which elicited all the usual “Oh my God”s and “Wow, look at this”s. They ran all over the hill and up to the ruins. Getting them down off the Cerro was like herding cats.

Final stop was the goat farm, where the family welcomed us warmly. I explained the bottle bulb, biodigester, and solar pumping / lighting system and they got to see a Cocina Mejorada (improved cook stove) in action, as well as Biol fertilizer being sprayed on the crops that will feed the goats. Mama Anita and Chanel cooked us a wonderful lunch of sopa seca, carapulca and papas con huancaina. Most of it was cooked over a Bio-gas flame or on the Cocina. And there were samples of the goat cheese and yogurt all around. Everyone got a walk on the beach to boot. I figure they all slept well on the bus ride back home.

I was honored this week to have a photo of me and a goat used as a PC ad on Facebook, my design for the Soapy Tap featured on the PC FB page for Global Hand-Washing Day and two articles published in the PC Peru newsletter.

It was a tough week for utilities. The new water line is in and all new house connections are being made, which caused the water to be off for over 48 hours. Because of our normally US style water service, with chlorine and kick-ass pressure, we don’t have a roof storage tank, so common in rural areas. I’m a bit of a shower freak – gotta have that water on my body or I just don’t feel right. So, I resorted to the old “IronMan” shower – 500 ml can actually give a nice refreshing rinse. And shaving can be done with less than a cup, when no shaving crème is involved.

And then, the new power lines had power on & off for several days. I really can’t complain – so many other Volunteers deal with power and water outages on a regular basis – many have no indoor plumbing. So, America…..enjoy those amazing services that we take for granted. At least my little town has new infrastructure to carry it forward.

Speaking of Mi Pueblo, the drumming (cajon) and dance troupe performed at an event in Lima this week. This is a really big deal – Lima is bigger than NYC in the minds of the kids here. So, to be invited was a HUGE morale boost. I didn’t go, but heard they were better than ever. Their shy and unsure personas have given way to big smiles and enthusiasm, as they realize how very good they are. And there is now a new facility, right near the Muni on the Plaza, where they can practice and perform. This looks to be the start of a wonderful new tradition in San Luis, as more kids want to join the prestigious performance troupe.

A long bike ride, to check on some of my latest projects, was heartening. Every site and project is running fine. Folks are enjoying the better stoves, Bio-gas and fertilizer, better bathrooms and the clean water right at their door. I met one of the wheelchair recipients (still can’t understand her name) in the Plaza. My heart jumped when I saw the bright red metal tubes and her big smile. Really excited and heart-warming to see how such a simple piece of equipment changes lives so dramatically.  She held my hand and cried as she said Gracias about a hundred times. I teared up pretty good, too. Thanks again to Princeton Class of ’77. You folks done good. To be the one who receives all these expressions of gratitude is a gift beyond words. My heart is swollen and my energy renewed every time it happens. The little gifts of fruit, the cookies and pies, the dinners, the kind smiles and greetings of “Ingeniero” or “Goyo”…are so precious. And will carry with me always. I am a very lucky, grateful man.

Jungle Vacation

A bridge over jungle waters

Suspension bridge over river

Jungle lagoon

These leaves are about 4 ft wide

I believe the appropriate expression is “I need a vacation to recover from my vacation”.  I saw and learned a lot about the Amazon basin jungle and enjoyed my first time off in Peru. I only wish that I had done the trip on my own. Not that my travel companions were not wonderful people – just that a non-scripted group travel is prone to delays and indecision.

           The venture began with a trip to Lima and the PC Training Center in Chaclacayo to work with the new group of Volunteers. It was the first time I had seen the training center, as my group trained at another center in Santa Eulalia, another 45 minutes out from Lima. It’s a little smaller, with less landscape than the one we trained at, but the Colonial structure is very comfortable and beautiful. It was a treat to see all of Peru 20, with their eager, shining and slightly apprehensive faces – Just like we were a year ago. Lots more “older” Volunteers, with many in their 40’s, 50’s and 2 over 60. I will gladly yield my title of “Oldest PCV in Peru” when they swear-in.

The Peace Corps hostel in Miraflores is “Friends House”. It is adequate, but not nearly as nice as the PC hotels in other capital cities. It does, however enjoy an incredible location, just a few blocks from the opulent Marriott, the ocean, JFK Park (yes, a Peruvian park named for a US President) and great restaurants. And a very nice full breakfast.

The “La Merced” bus line seemed the logical choice for transport to the city of La Merced. The route is spectacular, following the mighty Rimac River from Lima, past my old training town of Santa Eulalia, through canyons of high sheer rock walls, to an altitude of 10,000 ft. Near the summit, there was still snow on the ground and huge mining operations of all sorts. Then, the descent into the Amazon basin, past mountain meadows and streams to the steamy jungle city of La Merced. The bus was older – a hand-me-down from the nice coastal bus companies. The bathroom was out of order and the ventilation was turned off as soon as the ascent began, causing a quick and uncomfortable temperature rise. Add to that constant twists and turns of cut-backs and altitude and you understand why they pass out the little plastic bags at the start of the trip. The only relief was a lunch stop in the cool clear mountain air.

La Merced was hot and humid, even as the sun went down.  Tons of little moto-taxis zooming around, as no one wants to walk in the heat – but we did – just to keep the group together. I’ve been travelling solo for so long, that the group thing seems slow and frustrating, including just deciding on a hotel that suits everyone and when and where to eat. A wide, muddy river runs along the town, with thick jungle hills all around. The first foray into the jungle was amazing – trees that seemed to grow right out of view and strange and wonderful plants and flowers everywhere. But, far more than the sights, were the SOUNDS – the constant insect buzz and whir, punctuated by birds and small screaming monkeys, all of which were well hidden. Except the bugs, which are EVERYWHERE. The only thing that made them tolerable was knowing I would only be there a few days.

The town is loaded with coffee and cacao and peanuts – in all shapes and sizes. Walking into the coffee roasting shops was heavenly – I only wish that brewed coffee tasted as good as the ground coffee smells – except that I’d be totally caffeinated all day.  The other big treat was iced fruit drinks – kind of like slushies or slurppies, but just juice a little sugar, frozen just to the point of slush. I went double digits in no time.

When it came time to venture further into the deeper, more primitive jungle, we lost 3 of 5 troopers, leaving just Pat and I to carry the Gringo flag into the heart of darkness. And dark it is. As soon as we left the openness of a river, the canopy closed overhead. Despite the torrid hot sunshine bright overhead, there is a twilight quality and cool warmth that pervades. And that noise grew louder the further in we ventured. And always the insects all around the head and in clouds. Sleeping in a hammock with a WIDE net was some relief – the nearest buzzing was at least 4 ft away.

A visit to a native village was like something out of a 50’s National Geographic. Stick and mud huts and open fire cooking was somewhat belied by stocks of pasta and rice and Inka Kola and gas stoves for when the tourists aren’t there. I have absolutely no idea what some of the fruits were – never seen anything like them. And while I pride myself on trying new foods here in Peru (guinea pig, cow heart and cat), I just couldn’t manage the grub looking things or the piranha fish. Canoeing on the river was not so great – the water is muddy and the sun brutal. Dipping a hand into the water did help.

The travel was in a 4x4 pickup with raised body, to aid in crossing rivers without bridges. Much more comfortable that the bus, though on VERY bumpy roads. On return to La Merced, the hotels were full, so jumped on a bus to Oxipampa, thinking we’d visit the jungle parks there. But suddenly Pat got nauseous, and I noticed a nasty bite on his back – a small black/purple are with two fang marks about 1/16” apart. Dizzyness soon followed, so we got some medication, consulted the PC Medical staff and visited a local clinic. It was a well known local spider – can’t remember the name – and so began the trek back to Lima.

Disappointed with the La Merced bus line, we decided to try Junin line. The nice lady at the desk promised A/C and a direct route with no stops. There is no nice way to say it – she F-ing LIED. This bus was in even worse shape and my heated words to the driver were met with shrugged shoulders. And then, in the midst of more heat and humidity and vomiting (some by Pat) and constant stops….the heater started blasting HOT air into the cabin. Once again, I rushed to the driver to let him know and he explained that he had no choice – the engine was red-lining and he had to cool it down with this Hellish method. Even this was not enough and we eventually DID overheat with an ominous whoosh of steam from the rear of the bus.

Two and a half hours on the side of the road. Although we had gained some altitude and there was a nice breeze. The driver found some water nearby and got us back on the road – just about the time a La Merced bus passed us. And mention must be made of the menagerie aboard – a prize fighting cock, two little lambs in a bag and a small baby parrot, whose owner was trying to potty train it on a napkin. The only solution I could find was to stand the entire way, directly under the roof vent. My years of sailing served me well as we rocked and rolled up to the summit and careened back down to the coast.

So, boys and girls – be careful when you ask for a jungle adventure – for you may surely get it………

Second Solar Pump

Mama Rosa gets first water at her house - just flip a switch

Another busy week in mi pueblo. Trying to get everything buttoned down before I do a training for the Peru 20 group and then hit the road to the jungle. And make sure that all is ready for the WATSAN 20 group training here the day after I get back.

wiring job - switches for lights and pump

Mama Rosa, digging the water line ditch

To that end – we kicked some solar butt on Sunday, starting with a bike ride which included 5 x5M lengths of water line strapped to my frame. (Yes, I still love my bike) Rosa and her son Elvis and I got the new second solar-powered pump system installed. Only one small snag – materials list was short one PVC fitting, but the goat farm was nearby with all my spare parts. The “ladder” they gave me to get up on the roof was not exactly OSHA approved, but it worked just fine. Elvis and Rosa did the water line trench, which was lined with beach sand and covered. They raise turkeys, and while we were testing the pump, the chicks all gravitated to the line – I figure the vibration was the attraction. Chicks dig vibration – Si o No ?

Meanwhile, I worked my magic on the plumbing and wiring. Once again, my tools proved invaluable in speeding the job flow – testing polarity, drilling perfect holes in the wall for pipes, stripping and nutting wires and installing screws. So now, all Mama Rosa does is flip the switch inside the door and she gets a nice flow of clean water, right at her door. I also gave them another switched circuit for lighting, to save them on kerosene lamps, if power is still available after switching. We also discussed future plans for bringing the water inside – if they get a sink – and hooking up a shower. They’ve got plenty of hose to reach the other 2 houses next door and the livestock. Water flow tested at about 160 gallons per hour.

I’ve learned that Margarita got the job in Lima. Happy for her – she’ll have more time with Victor, but even less time with her kiddles. She plans to come home on weekends – we’ll see how that goes. The kids will be living with relatives here – Camila adores her aunt and they have a great time together. When school gets out for the summer in December, they’ll be moving to Lima, as well. They have been such a joy for me. Hard to think of not having them around every day.

Closed out my ECPA renewable energy grant. Lots of paperwork and accounting – not my favorite part of the job. I really enjoy the field construction, the planning, the organizing, the physical work and working with very helpful and appreciative folks. Explaining the technology, operation and maintenance. The field follow-up. I love all that, so I guess 1 day of paperwork is a small price to pay. And as my beloved Grandfather said “Greggie Boy, the job’s not done until the work space is clean, the paperwork is done and all tools cleaned and ready for the next job.” Word.

Looking forward to meeting the new group of PCVs and doing some training. And then on to adventure, through the Andes to the Amazon jungle. (insert Tarzan yell) My first vacation in over a year. I’m due…..

Before I go - one last plug for the Playgrounds project. Thanks to over 20 of you wonderful folks, we are over half way to the funding goal. If you haven’t already, please consider a deductible donation at :

https://donate.peacecorps.gov/index.cfm?shell=donate.contribute.projDetail&projdesc=527-125

And we thank you for your support.